Definitely a wicking issue. Seems like TC is working fine in VTC as it shut down power to your poorly wicking coil. Your other mods appear to be the ones malfunctioning.
eVic-VT mini?
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I jut tried mine out in bypass mode. Just as you'd expect, but quite interesting to watch the numbers passing by when normally you are estimating them.
Bypass is a bit of a dodgy inclusion in a number of newer reg mods.
I guess a half dozen of mine have it.
I've tried it a couple of times when I had an RDA rolled up that could handle it, but I bet I would have joined thousands of others in frying a factory head if I had gone ahead and tried it without thinking.
Even my RBA wicking is so poor, I'd probably toast the Bellus I just tried, if I hit it hard (~49w).
( eta: managed to half focus on the wattage as sag brought it down around 35w, which is where I've been using it in TC (0.29 dual). So if I don't draw too long, I guess it's workable.
I'm the Jon Snow of building for mechs.
)
Never used a mech so someone else will have to comment on how it actually performs.
I guess a half dozen of mine have it.
I've tried it a couple of times when I had an RDA rolled up that could handle it, but I bet I would have joined thousands of others in frying a factory head if I had gone ahead and tried it without thinking.
Even my RBA wicking is so poor, I'd probably toast the Bellus I just tried, if I hit it hard (~49w).
( eta: managed to half focus on the wattage as sag brought it down around 35w, which is where I've been using it in TC (0.29 dual). So if I don't draw too long, I guess it's workable.
I'm the Jon Snow of building for mechs.
)Never used a mech so someone else will have to comment on how it actually performs.
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The VTC mini isn't too bad in bypass mode. It certainly doesn't hit like a copper mech. Given it has buck/boost vv/vw onboard I don't see the need to run in bypass mode; unless you are testing a certain coil build and want to see if it effective on a mech.
If you haven't built for mechs, the learning curve is a bit steeper, as your watts generated are derived from the resistance of your atomizer. Heat flux is extremely important, mechs like efficient coils. I feel that if a build is a great mech build, it will be a great TC build as well (assuming you are using stainless steel).
If you haven't built for mechs, the learning curve is a bit steeper, as your watts generated are derived from the resistance of your atomizer. Heat flux is extremely important, mechs like efficient coils. I feel that if a build is a great mech build, it will be a great TC build as well (assuming you are using stainless steel).
quick question —
first time to use my Ti and Ni coils from the tron s kit.
what's your recommended setting for using an 80:20 ration eliquid?
thanks guys!
first time to use my Ti and Ni coils from the tron s kit.
what's your recommended setting for using an 80:20 ration eliquid?
thanks guys!
My recommendation is to say whether you mean 80% PG or 80% VG. There is no standard way of specifying.
And I usually am around 15-18 watts and 350-400 degrees. (Ti or SS; I'm not using Ni.) (RTA [KFL]; I don't use pre-built heads.)
Just goes to show, there is no correct or incorrect setting. Experiment. Find what you like. Start low and move up until you're happy.
80% PG. whoa, that's high PG. i vape 80vg/20pg or 70vg/30pg. i actually run mine at 550 degrees Farenheit. i found a pic i took a couple of weeks ago.
Man, that's high temp!
And I use 25 or 30% VG / 75 or 70% PG.
Like I said, no correct, no incorrect. Just enjoy in good health.
PG doesn't handle heat as well as VG, or better said that PG is a hotter vape at the same temperature.
And different tanks, and the TONS of different atomizers, both prebuilt and roll your own, effect what temp you vape various wires on, and as previously mentioned, different juice chemistries, not just the VG/PG ratios. So when someone asks what temp to Vape at, most answers are and can only be a rough guide at best, guess that's what some of these buttons are for on these devices......
Typically for me & the Evic, I run between 440-500* F and 22-28 Watts. Only mated to me-built RTAs which are Single-Coil Ti (26ga and twisted 28ga) yielding 0.23-0.30 Ohms R.
As said above, depends on Atty and Build and not the Liquid Mix (IMO). Liquid Mix determines Coil Spec/Design and Wicking Design/Method (again-IMO & experience).
Also, some Atties are less effective (in Liq. Flow/Feed Design) on high VG than others. Would say I never had or tried any RTA that had issues with 80/20 or 70/30 (VG/PG) Liquids nor were they a pain to dial-in Settings on any APV for a tasty Vape.
80 PG ??? Wow,,,,,
As said above, depends on Atty and Build and not the Liquid Mix (IMO). Liquid Mix determines Coil Spec/Design and Wicking Design/Method (again-IMO & experience).
Also, some Atties are less effective (in Liq. Flow/Feed Design) on high VG than others. Would say I never had or tried any RTA that had issues with 80/20 or 70/30 (VG/PG) Liquids nor were they a pain to dial-in Settings on any APV for a tasty Vape.
80 PG ??? Wow,,,,,
I'm running a 65/35 PG/VG mix most of the time and like it better than the reverse, 65/35 VG/PG. I have found that the High % of VG makes my chest feel tight for some reason. Anyone think that sounds screwy ?? I do, as I have not heard of that being said or even posted in all that I have read here on ECF, or anywhere. I smoked for 52 years, maybe that has something to do with it ?? I would be concerned about 80 PG being a little thin and flooding my deck if wicking was not up to snuff, with 65 PG I still watch my wicking but I run that in my Lemo V1, Tron-S w/CLR coils, Cthulhu V2, and even a Aromamizer SC-200 with dual vertical coils and so far no flooding issues, but 80 PG would worry me a bit.
I'm like you Jim, as far as Mech's go. I got into vaping Aug. of 2014 and started right off with regulated devices and never even held a Mech, and after what I have read here I think I will pass on the ByPass mode on my VTC mini (I understand the theory of Mechanical's and how to build for them safely) but with the quality and safety of the regulated mini I can't see why I would want to use ByPass mode, or even need it, plus, I have the Cuboid if I want to go Low Ω and Big Watts in Power mode with Kanthal, as long as my batteries permits it.
I'm like you Jim, as far as Mech's go. I got into vaping Aug. of 2014 and started right off with regulated devices and never even held a Mech, and after what I have read here I think I will pass on the ByPass mode on my VTC mini (I understand the theory of Mechanical's and how to build for them safely) but with the quality and safety of the regulated mini I can't see why I would want to use ByPass mode, or even need it, plus, I have the Cuboid if I want to go Low Ω and Big Watts in Power mode with Kanthal, as long as my batteries permits it.
Although I prefer higher vg since pg dehydrates me, I have read of many people who get a heavy chest feeling from vg, so you are not alone.
In August (on the first page) I posted *I like the original better" .....I now have 2 of these minis , really liking them...........I'm now vindicated
as for vg affecting chest/lungs it seems it depends on source or producer of vg.
i diy my juice, when i was using life brand vg it did make my chest feel "heavy", for the lack of a better word, when mixing high vg juices.
i then ordered a gallon(4liters) from coop coco and i didnt get that heavy feeling. maybe its just in my head idk.
info on Vegetable glycerine: certified GMO free, pharmaceutical grade (USP) and kosher,
Origin: Coconut
Glycerin, vegetable source USP | Coop Coco
imo, ymmv
i diy my juice, when i was using life brand vg it did make my chest feel "heavy", for the lack of a better word, when mixing high vg juices.
i then ordered a gallon(4liters) from coop coco and i didnt get that heavy feeling. maybe its just in my head idk.
info on Vegetable glycerine: certified GMO free, pharmaceutical grade (USP) and kosher,
Origin: Coconut
Glycerin, vegetable source USP | Coop Coco
imo, ymmv
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