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Either wrong picture or the long ones are for the upcoming T3s which supposedly can use the EVOD heads.
I put a knock off Evod head in a real EVOD and worked fine. I can't use it at more than 8w tough. Real Evod had no problem at 9w.
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I'm already using the T3S heads in all of my Kanger clearos. The T3S head has a smaller diameter "disk" part on it and it is able to fit into protanks and evods as well as the T3S. The protank and evod heads have a larger "disk" and won't acutally fit into a T3S head. T3S - "One head to rule them all" lol. That just got nerdy, sorry.
I've been using 2 of the FT Evods for 2 days now. The grey one came with the short stem head and the green one came with the long stem head. I have not yet tried swapping heads between either of these and Kanger Evods. The grey measures 2.5 ohms and the green with long stem measures 2.0 Ohms. Visually, side by side compared to Kanger evods, they are hard to tell apart. The FT ones have slightly longer juice windows. I don't see the cloudiness of the mouthpiece that someone mentioned. I think they vape the same as Kanger Evods too, including getting gurgly when the liquid level starts getting low. Bottom line, I'd buy them again.
I think the key here is that the Evod clone body is much cheaper. I'm not planing to buy replacement heads from FT anyway. That is one thing I prefer to be original and at around $6 for 5 really not worth getting cloned heads with chance that some of them might be crappy. But I did flip the rubber seal upside down on the clone as I normally do and it vaped fine as with the Kanger heads. (more saturated flavor).
Have you noticed the Evod draw getting airyer after a couple of days?
i think that the gaskets are setting due to constant need to refill.
once I replaced Evod with a new one draw is back to normal so is not the APV.
Happened on two units already.
I need to completely remove the atty every time I fill it because I use it on a Sigelei not on an eGo
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i think that the gaskets are setting due to constant need to refill.
once I replaced Evod with a new one draw is back to normal so is not the APV.
Happened on two units already.
I need to completely remove the atty every time I fill it because I use it on a Sigelei not on an eGo
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I've got a couple of these coming - ordered hoping they're as good, but presuming they were a knock-off, because on the FastTech site, it DOES NOT SAY KANGER. That's kind of my take on FastTech - if it is a branded item, they say so - if it is a knock-off, they don't claim that it's a branded item. Which is fair and honest, and you have to know what you're ordering!
And yeah - if they're inferior, I'll just pay an extra buck or two next time...
And yeah - if they're inferior, I'll just pay an extra buck or two next time...
Personally I've noticed they can get tighter on Evods but not very often. I just blow the moisture out from the airholes.
I think is an issue with the Zmax not Evod in my case.
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The first evod clone I had I recoiled to a 0.8ohm level making the whole unit heat up a lot.
Couple days later now and I'm getting juice seeping out the level windows, not bad mind you but seeping.
(Any seeping is bad I guess)
Anyone else having this issue with the kangers or the clones using regular heads?
Couple days later now and I'm getting juice seeping out the level windows, not bad mind you but seeping.
(Any seeping is bad I guess)
Anyone else having this issue with the kangers or the clones using regular heads?
At 0.8 ohm you get a lot of heat like you said and that doesnt help the glued parts.
I would say is normal to get sepage in this conditions. Same thing happened to me when I was pushing the Kanger T2's
They started to leak after a while and even after using stock coils and lowering the power they continued to leak.
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This man speaks the truth.
I received mines from FT today. So first of all I was commenting on some units I received from china , friend of mine bought them there, and I assumed the FT ones are the same... they're not.
Differences :
The FT ones have only 2 homes in the bottom.
The drip tip is opaque vs clear in Kanger units.
The ring below the drip tip has a sharp edge vs a chamfered edge in Kanger
The coil unit looks different , the small silicon gasket under the wick looks fatter.
The eGo thread is very rough when you screw it on the APV.
Other than that I didn't see any differences.
Packaging is different too , these came in a small individual bag not sealed like real deal.
Coils came in a small zip baggy.
Similarities :
Colours look right
Coil unit from FT mounted fine on a real Evod.
From distance look the same.
Vaping ,
Put it on, shows 2.3 ohm , originals clock at 2.5-2.6
Loaded with my favourite ADV , left it to soak... first drag... PURE SMOKE , left it some more... Pure Smoke.
Lowered the APV from 7W to 5W left it stand for a couple of minutes to soak better... drag... NASTY , second drag same crapp..
This is NOT silica, is something else because it burns like paper.
Drag is VERY light compared with real kangers
FULL STOP!!! There is so much burnt rope smoke I can take....
Open the fakie , replace coil with real deal.
Put real coil unit in , stock not rebuild, left it for 20-30 seconds to soak... PURE BLISS.
Conclusion : I just wasted $26 on garbage .
I'm running these on an ego twist battery. I believed i'd bought the real deal. If I screw them onto the battery the whole way I get leakage from them. So I have to leave them with a slight wobble. I just read this thread through. Mine look like real kangers but screwing even 'ok that's just about tight' creates leakage gurgling. So I know 4 and a half 360 degree twists leaves them just before they are tight and they work fine. Very annoying though. Thoughts?
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