Evolv-ing Thread

[laurie9300]

Now why didn't I think of that? Good idea for sure, I have a few header pins laying around will have to upgrade my BB usb board. Thanks
BTW have you tried the Boxxer? I'm hesitant to try it cause I'v never liked the coil that close to my mouth with other tanks before I find the vape is hot & the chance of spit back to high
I'm interested in your take on it?

The first con for me is the housing you use to fire the coil won't screw right down on my tab.....the corner fouls on the lip.....but it does make connection so all good.....

Very easy to build and wick.....this is a 3mm 316L Clapton

When it came to filling there was a problem. It's natural to want to lay it down to fill, but then you have a wick hole at the bottom for your juice to run straight out. I like to leave a bit of open space in the wick holes to allow air to get in the tank. I'm wondering if this is where most of the leaking issues are coming from?

I decided to run it in my SXK until I assess the leaking issues....

The first tank I went through quickly, with no leakage, and less condensation than I have experienced with some other bridges. It's definitely a warmer vape, full of flavour, but I had no spit back. It's also a bit more open on the draw than anything else I've tried.

Towards the end of the second tank though I had some major leakage. It literally poured out while it was sitting. I've shelved it for now until I have time to work out what happened......

 

[Steamer861]

@laurie9300 Thanks for the nice write up. I read a lot of negative posts about the Boxxer, looks like you're confirming a lot of them.
I never liked this style of tank, can't see myself liking this style of bridge either, coupled with the issues everyone is posting, I think I'l pass on this one.
Thanks again

 

[dwcraig1]

Now I understand what I was missing when I seen this Odin drawing.

 

[Steamer861]

Now I understand what I was missing when I seen this Odin drawing.

The top picture is the Boxxer, but the other 2 look like they could be a pod for the Orion?
Whats the story on these pics? There is nothing on the odin website about them.
Still don't like that "Genny" Style with the coil on top & the long wick tails

 

[dwcraig1]

I haven't checked their website in awhile, but Element Vape has those Vapecige VTX200 in all 3 colors in stock for $94.95 if anybody is interested.

I'm amazed the the price didn't get jacked when in stock as that is what I truly expected.

 

[dwcraig1]

The top picture is the Boxxer, but the other 2 look like they could be a pod for the Orion?
Whats the story on these pics? There is nothing on the odin website about them.
Still don't like that "Genny" Style with the coil on top & the long wick tails

It begins long before this thread.
Lost Vape Orion
Odin was contacted about making an RB for the Orion and it seems accepted.
I wonder what the cost will be?

 

[laurie9300]

It begins long before this thread.
Lost Vape Orion
Odin was contacted about making an RB for the Orion and it seems accepted.
I wonder what the cost will be?

Yes the Orion rebuildable looks a lot like the boxxer.

The Orion rebuildable is reported to be low cost, like $30.

I do wonder where the air is going to come from though?

 

[BillW50]

I'm vaping one of mine now, first time in over a year probably. Had to rewick then go back in and trim the tails just a bit more.
Vaping on that Peppermint I made a couple of days ago.

Well I wasn't going to build on one of the Kayfuns tonight, but you got me going. So I was curious if my Ni200 26/32 Claptons will fit on them. Yes they do. Hmm... maybe throw a wick on it and see if it vaporizes okay. Yes looks good. Maybe I'll just toss some juice in the tank and see how that goes. Wow! I can vape on something like this. Its actually really nice.

Wait, vapor and flavor is dropping off. What the hell. Say isn't there a juice flow control on these things? How does that work again? Oh yeah, spin the tank on the base a turn or two. There we go, bubbles. Yeah this vapes alright. That Clapton sure goes through the juice. Might need to get me some more of these Kayfuns. They're really nice.

 

[dwcraig1]

So my wife's Smok Nord ended up crap after all, to bad as it works well when working.
Problem is there are only these protrusions on the side of the housing to hold it into the mod (rails).
They wear down or whatever and the spring loaded contacts push the pod out of the mod breaking contact, no magnets or latches here.
There are 2 on each side and one on the end of the coil housing. Maybe the right rap with a hammer will fix it up.

 

[dwcraig1]

Well I wasn't going to build on one of the Kayfuns tonight, but you got me going. So I was curious if my Ni200 26/32 Claptons will fit on them. Yes they do. Hmm... maybe throw a wick on it and see if it vaporizes okay. Yes looks good. Maybe I'll just toss some juice in the tank and see how that goes. Wow! I can vape on something like this. Its actually really nice.

Wait, vapor and flavor is dropping off. What the hell. Say isn't there a juice flow control on these things? How does that work again? Oh yeah, spin the tank on the base a turn or two. There we go, bubbles. Yeah this vapes alright. That Clapton sure goes through the juice. Might need to get me some more of these Kayfuns. They're really nice.

Well mine is back in the pile....for now, I am currently using the 25 mm K5 (and my Spade or Topside), I can only keep up with so many tanks... can't vape them all at least not at the same time,

 

[dwcraig1]

I ran across an unused K5 a couple of days ago that I had forgotten all about. When I first received it I snapped the positive pin before I ever put a build in it.

 

[SlickWilly]

Yes they are very nice mods for sure. They cost $167.00 with everything.

I watched a couple of video reviews, they showed parts of the mod and how it goes together. It's a very well made mod and what really impressed me was the hardness of the metal and the finish, one reviewer said he beats his by putting in his pocket with his keys and it hasn't touched the finish, that's amazing! The 510 looks nice and beefy, that mod should outlast the electronics, likely a lifetime. If you plan on keeping it for years to come I'd think about getting a spare 510 and board assembly or buy a 60 and charger, you can solder it up, they also have a switch board they are making, I'd get one of those too. It looks like a tank, I'm sure it will last longer then they will produce it and the parts for it. It's out of the range of what I'm willing to spend for a mod but I do like it, maybe if the price comes down after a year or so I might grab one, please let us know how it goes for you.

 

[SlickWilly]

Here's the one I made for my billet boxes. I used header pins instead of wires. The pins fit nice and about in the main board.

Man my soldering looks bad this close up! But the board works well.....

Use a BIG tip that holds a lot of heat so it can heat sink the parts without cooling off much and crank that heat right up on the soldering iron and it will help that. let the tip come back up to temp before moving to the next spot, the solder will flow better and you won't have to hold the tip on the part very long. Yup crank it up higher than they recommend, get her hot, try it on some spare parts and see.

 

[SlickWilly]

A couple other tips on soldering I learned, just before soldering the part clean the tip well and tin it with a good size bead of solder on it, it needs that melted metal to transfer the heat between the parts and the tip, if the tip is bare or too little of a bead it will take forever for the heat to transfer, as seconds tick by you'll overheat parts and the wire insulation. You want to touch that part and get back off it as soon as the joint fills with solder, 1-2 seconds bam done, that's why I crank the heat up. The wire and parts won't get as hot, much less in fact then if you have to hold the tip on waiting for the solder to flow. Clean parts and good flux are also a must, follow those tips and you'll see how that bead of solder on the tip will flow right off onto the parts and into the joints and fast too! Lack of heat or heat transfer is your 1st enemy when soldering, clean fluxed parts next.

One last thing, DO NOT USE FLUX BOUGHT FROM A HARDWARE STORE FOUND IN THE PLUMBING AISLE! It's corrosive, it's meant to eat into the copper pipes for better solder flow and reduce leaks, it will ruin electronics over time, please don't ask me how I know... Get a GOOD "no clean" flux made for electronic boards.

 

[TrollDragon]

I use the 800F screwdriver tip for soldering header pins.

Weller PTL8 .078 in. x 1.0 in. x 800 degrees Long Screwdriver Tip

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[gnees]

 

[dwcraig1]

 

[SlickWilly]

I rolled the dice on some cheap tips China from Amazon, they've are holding surprisingly well. The one I use 99% of the time is the big chisel tip pointed out, the mass holds more heat. I can use the tip where the arrow points for smaller parts but the face is what I use most.

This is the cheap soldering station I got from Hobby King some years ago with the intentions it would get me started and a few mods built then I'd move to something better, well it's still going strong and I see no reason to replace it until it dies. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/solderi...le-heat-range-with-aus-plug-au-warehouse.html

 

[awsum140]

I sprang for a Hako after my old TC iron went south. Best investment in soldering tools I've made. The recovery time is almost non-existent. I usually run at 750F and get good joints with no problems using a pencil tip for, almost, everything. I did have ti use a chisel tip, yesterday, getting some parts off a board, but that was so I could heat two joints at the same time.

If the tip isn't properly tinned, heat transfer takes too long for sure no matter what iron you use.