Evolv-ing Thread

[TrollDragon]

The old Weller that my father gave to me in the 70's, it's still kicking and needs a little tap every now and again to free up the magnetic switch.

Too bad they didn't have a usage counter on them, this one would have rolled over many times.

I need to get a Hakko and retire this old girl.

 

[mikepetro]

 

[TrollDragon]

Won an authentic BB, that's Sweet! Congrats
I cant get the vape shell to work I got 2 of the SXK's & I gave up on them
I tried many different combinations & IDK why it's not working good for me
I use the Exocet clone It works the best for me. The insider clone also works good, just not as good as the Exocet IMO
I never even heard of the MF Bridge till now, so can't say any thing bout it.
I do have the Boro that takes the Atlantis coils, it also works good with the .5 or .3 Clapton wire Blister pack coils. My favourite is still the Exocet

If you have a DNA60 usb board? You can solder wires to it & connect to E-Scribe.
It's not that hard, removing the screen lead is the worst part. I didn't solder nothing on the board just held the wires in place while I connected. I put in a bunch of my own profiles & now can easily switch between them

I'm now curios about this MF bridge, what else does that EUC coil work in?
I never tried ceramic coils, how are they compared to the Atlantis coils?
BTW lots of nice stuff on here Canadian Custom Vapes (@canadiancustomvapes) • Instagram photos and videos

Thanks.
What was the problem with the Vapeshell, dry hits/flooding etc? I'll probably go through the bridges on FT and grab a few for sure. Thanks for the info on rigging up a USB connection too, I am totally amazed considering the price of the authentic that there isn't a charge/eScribe board already installed. I guess that will be in the Rev 5 version when it comes up to 2015.

The MF EUC bridge looks great and gets high praise from quite a few people, even the members on Todd's FB group like it. Would be around $100 CAD landed for a tiny little tube though, but the ceramic Vaporesso coils are supposedly excellent for great flavor and long life. The rabbit hole that is BB accessories.


I couldn't get over the Templario Elmo RDA, the workmanship is phenomenal but the deck uses a rubber grommet and pin to attach the coil just like rebuilding a blister pack coil.

 

[dwcraig1]

I'm not much of a builder but I use this gun to solder the big wires on a DNA board:

And for the balance tap this one:

and that no clean flux that looks like water. (Kester 951)
The gun I found at work (trash) is in like new condition.

 

[dwcraig1]

Gulp

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks.
What was the problem with the Vapeshell, dry hits/flooding etc? I'll probably go through the bridges on FT and grab a few for sure. Thanks for the info on rigging up a USB connection too, I am totally amazed considering the price of the authentic that there isn't a charge/eScribe board already installed. I guess that will be in the Rev 5 version when it comes up to 2015.

The MF EUC bridge looks great and gets high praise from quite a few people, even the members on Todd's FB group like it. Would be around $100 CAD landed for a tiny little tube though, but the ceramic Vaporesso coils are supposedly excellent for great flavor and long life. The rabbit hole that is BB accessories.


I couldn't get over the Templario Elmo RDA, the workmanship is phenomenal but the deck uses a rubber grommet and pin to attach the coil just like rebuilding a blister pack coil.

The wicking holes are too large, on the vapeshell I tried many coils, even really large ones & could never get rid of the too saturated wicks, After many attempts & cause I had the Exocet's I just gave up on them Maybe your's will work for You?

This is the boro for the atlantis coils, works pretty good IMO https://www.fasttech.com/p/8487100

The Exocet & Insider (clones) both instock at this Canadian site $20 each HARDWARE NEW ARRIVAL

If your like Me not being able to see the screen & the Boro is a Piss off I found this panel for a decent price, it's from the guy in the link I posted CCV. I found it on a Canadian site, BILLET BOX REV4 PANELS BY BB VAPES BRVND X CANADIAN CUSTOM VAPES - CLEAR
It's nothing fancy, but I can see the screen & juice level, it didn't cost too much

These 2 I spent a little more.
The Ohm man DT's came from here Ohman Stuff
The stab wood panels came from here https://www.koncio-mods.com out of stock now but only $130 USD each, I also got Titanium Buttons from the same guy, you cant see them in the Pics but there nice best deal I could find after months of searching

Good Luck Going Down the Rabbit Hole

 

[ShamrockPat]

I use the Exocet clone It works the best for me. The insider clone also works good, just not as good as the Exocet IMO

Same here. I watched the geekay vape vid for wicking, actually twisting the top where the cotton comes through for a bit of an S curve.

This is the boro for the atlantis coils, works pretty good IMO https://www.fasttech.com/p/8487100

Also referred to as the 'A' tank. There's a local store by me that has the OG Aspire Triton RTA in a tin can for $3. Regular price was $10-15, but it never sold well. In my old tired mind I think the air holes or something didn't line up well. I don't mind picking one up and sending to anyone in this group for my actual costs.

 

[BillW50]

My BB...

 

[SlickWilly]

Same here. I watched the geekay vape vid for wicking, actually twisting the top where the cotton comes through for a bit of an S curve.Also referred to as the 'A' tank. There's a local store by me that has the OG Aspire Triton RTA in a tin can for $3. Regular price was $10-15, but it never sold well. In my old tired mind I think the air holes or something didn't line up well. I don't mind picking one up and sending to anyone in this group for my actual costs.

Just a thought on the wicking holes might be too big, could you cut some thin plastic and slide them in place between the wick and holes to partially cover them?

 

[Steamer861]

Same here. I watched the geekay vape vid for wicking, actually twisting the top where the cotton comes through for a bit of an S curve.

I just let the wick ends stick out, like I would have wicked an older Ti-fun
It works well, nice air flow also. Thats my gripe with the insider, tighter draw, little harder to build & wick correctly, still a good option thou

ust a thought on the wicking holes might be too big, could you cut some thin plastic and slide them in place between the wick and holes to partially cover them?

You could probably make it work, some how I just lost patience cause I have some thing that works well all ready

BTW anyone try this yet? $13.93 Kindbright MTL RBA for BB Box Mod at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping This is a clone obviously but Svt designed the Original

 

[awsum140]

Since we're on wicking and tanks...I breathed new life into my hand built DNA40 low tank this afternoon. I decided to put a Merlin on it and the hole for the tank was a "tad" too small. A "tad" in this case being about two millimeters. So, off to the basement and some extended time working with a Dremel and a burr. I had to be careful because the Merlin is almost as big as the inside of the case where it fits. That meant working slowly and carefully to get that hole big enough without cutting through the top plate.

After that, it was clean the mod time. Lots of spoils from the burr and it needed all the case screws tightened that had loosened from all the vibrations.

Next up was a coil in a Merlin. Since the 40 was built before Escribe and profiles it only actually handles nickel in TC mode unless you want to guesstimate. I forgot why I hated Ni200. Man, that stuff is soft and brittle. I wound an eight wrap coil, mounted it up, and promptly turned it to junk trying to wick it with rayon. So, I pulled off a double long piece of Ni200 and twisted it up. Wrapped another eight wrap coil and managed to get the wick in without wrecking the coil. It came in at .01 ohms, a little on the low side for my tastes, but what the hey.

It's producing clouds at 25 watts, the flavor is great and it maintains the 25 watts for a full hit, no dumping into TC. The only problem is that the Merlin is shorter than the Foggers I used to use in this thing and the drip tip is the only thing sticking out. Actually, it makes it an even better stealth mod that way, other than trying to get rid of clouds without anyone noticing.

On another note, I'm definitely liking the Supreme V2! I've got to get a few more of these, like a half dozen or so, and some single coil decks, too. My credit card took a beating over the Holidays, so it'll have to wait a month or so.

One more comment...I keep seeing people complain about the "C"series, more so the 250, over on the Evolv board. Just a casual observation but the common thing seems to be they're all using 316L. IMHO 316L just isn't very good as a TC wire. It gave me fits in the 75, 200 and 250 so I don't use it at all anymore. YMMV

 

[SlickWilly]

Since we're on wicking and tanks...I breathed new life into my hand built DNA40 low tank this afternoon. I decided to put a Merlin on it and the hole for the tank was a "tad" too small. A "tad" in this case being about two millimeters. So, off to the basement and some extended time working with a Dremel and a burr. I had to be careful because the Merlin is almost as big as the inside of the case where it fits. That meant working slowly and carefully to get that hole big enough without cutting through the top plate.

After that, it was clean the mod time. Lots of spoils from the burr and it needed all the case screws tightened that had loosened from all the vibrations.

Next up was a coil in a Merlin. Since the 40 was built before Escribe and profiles it only actually handles nickel in TC mode unless you want to guesstimate. I forgot why I hated Ni200. Man, that stuff is soft and brittle. I wound an eight wrap coil, mounted it up, and promptly turned it to junk trying to wick it with rayon. So, I pulled off a double long piece of Ni200 and twisted it up. Wrapped another eight wrap coil and managed to get the wick in without wrecking the coil. It came in at .01 ohms, a little on the low side for my tastes, but what the hey.

It's producing clouds at 25 watts, the flavor is great and it maintains the 25 watts for a full hit, no dumping into TC. The only problem is that the Merlin is shorter than the Foggers I used to use in this thing and the drip tip is the only thing sticking out. Actually, it makes it an even better stealth mod that way, other than trying to get rid of clouds without anyone noticing.

On another note, I'm definitely liking the Supreme V2! I've got to get a few more of these, like a half dozen or so, and some single coil decks, too. My credit card took a beating over the Holidays, so it'll have to wait a month or so.

One more comment...I keep seeing people complain about the "C"series, more so the 250, over on the Evolv board. Just a casual observation but the common thing seems to be they're all using 316L. IMHO 316L just isn't very good as a TC wire. It gave me fits in the 75, 200 and 250 so I don't use it at all anymore. YMMV

Have you tried the Tempered Ni200? It's a lot more like working with Kanthal but it still is on the brittle side, mess with positioning the wick too much and it will snap off where the leg is clamped, doesn't happen very often, maybe once every 50 coils but it does happen. I get mine here, Tempered Ni200 Pure Nickel Wire
Be glad to send you some 26ga to try first, can drop some in a letter envelop inside some cardboard, come to think of it I have some Far Side Christmas cards left over.

 

[Steamer861]

One more comment...I keep seeing people complain about the "C"series, more so the 250, over on the Evolv board. Just a casual observation but the common thing seems to be they're all using 316L. IMHO 316L just isn't very good as a TC wire. It gave me fits in the 75, 200 and 250 so I don't use it at all anymore. YMMV

Couldn't agree more! SS sucks in TC on a DNA, any SS any DNA! The Stupid thing is everyone is using it!
Nickel does work good in TC, just hard to work with, all most imposable to wick/rewick with out destroying the coil. the tempered Ni is a bit better but not much
Also you cant really twist it or Clapton it to strengthen it with out a really too low ohm build.
It's Ti or bust, but it remains the best kept secret in TC vaping

A question for you lipo guys, My work mods 250c 4s LiPos are slowly draining with out using them.
I charged one this morning & it's down 5% battery just sitting there for half a day
the other day after sitting for a few days the battery went from around 50% to all most 0
Is it more likely the batteries fault or the 250c?
I have many other lipo mods non c's that never do this
I'm just noticing this issue now one of the 2 is worse than the other but both seem to be doing it I will be switching the batteries around from one mod to the other to get an idea of if it's the battery?
Anyone see this issue before ?

 

[awsum140]

Steamer, I'm just guessing but there's been a few complaints about that problem.

The Ni200 I have is tempered. I pulsed it tomake sure there were no hot spots, so there went the temper. The twisted held enough strength to get a reasonable wick in after pulsing it. That's 28 gauge Ni I have on hand by the way. The only thing I use it for is that old, but very reliable, DNA40 low tank I kludged together.

 

[Steamer861]

Steamer, I'm just guessing but there's been a few complaints about that problem.

Discharging on its own? 250c specific?

 

[BillW50]

I forgot why I hated Ni200. Man, that stuff is soft and brittle.

I am not sure where you are seeing brittle from nickel (I noticed SlickWilly just said the same). Brittle to me is usually something hard and any flexing at all, it breaks. I don't see nickel that way at all.

And as far as soft, I heard that before I had any. I was thinking like solder soft. So I bought tempered nickel instead. It is very much like working with Kanthal. And I hate working with Kanthal. And if you dry burn Kanthal like 3 times, it becomes super brittle. You don't know how many times I was out and about and suddenly my Kanthal coil just snapped in two.

I've never had a single nickel coil just open up on me at all. And after tempered nickel, I bought regular nickel. I fell in love with it. And it wasn't anything as soft as solder like everyone makes it sound like. And you can wrap it, fold it, or shape it anyway you want to and it keeps the shape you gave it.

Other wire types are hard and springy. You bend it and it snaps back. You coil it and it doesn't want to stretch for spaced wraps. All of the other wire types just fight with you every step of the way. I wonder why people like other wire types and hate nickel? While I am just the opposite.

 

[Steamer861]

I wonder why people like other wire types and hate nickel? While I am just the opposite.

It's easy Bill, it's soft & hard to work with, specifically inserting the wick
If it was stiff like Titanium, I would use it all the time, cause it works well for me

 

[BillW50]

But Steamer861, I like soft. Not solder soft, that would be too soft for me to make decent coils out of. Nickel for me is just about perfect. And for TC, it is perfect there too. And I have no problems wicking nickel either. I can even wick it super tight and yes, the coil will reshape. But in a few seconds you can shape it right back again. Maybe I am the only one that does this. Maybe others will rip the coil out and restart again.

 

[SlickWilly]

Couldn't agree more! SS sucks in TC on a DNA, any SS any DNA! The Stupid thing is everyone is using it!
Nickel does work good in TC, just hard to work with, all most imposable to wick/rewick with out destroying the coil. the tempered Ni is a bit better but not much
Also you cant really twist it or Clapton it to strengthen it with out a really too low ohm build.
It's Ti or bust, but it remains the best kept secret in TC vaping

A question for you lipo guys, My work mods 250c 4s LiPos are slowly draining with out using them.
I charged one this morning & it's down 5% battery just sitting there for half a day
the other day after sitting for a few days the battery went from around 50% to all most 0
Is it more likely the batteries fault or the 250c?
I have many other lipo mods non c's that never do this
I'm just noticing this issue now one of the 2 is worse than the other but both seem to be doing it I will be switching the batteries around from one mod to the other to get an idea of if it's the battery?
Anyone see this issue before ?

Hmm.. Checking both the 75C and the 250C manuals they show a powered down (idle) draw of only 1uA for the 75 and 2uA for the 250, 1000 uA = 1 Milliamp, that's tiny so something is wrong! I'd take a DVM, unhook the balance connector, a draw could be pulled from either the main or balance wires. Unhook neg side of the battery and connect the meter between so you can watch if current is being pulled while at a idle, you'd be checking for amperage draw like in the pic below but you'll never see uA draw, well not on any meter I've seen, my Fluke won't even read 500uA, it rejects anything under but if you have a draw pulling down that fast it's got to be high enough to pick up on a good meter. I'd leave it hooked up setting some place where you can watch it for an extended time, if no draw there leave the main battery wire unhooked and then check between the neg and board on the balance connector. If you don't see a draw, next disconnect the lipo from the mod and check it periodically with the DVM and see if it's self discharging.

Actually.... now that I wrote all that, it would be a lot easier to check the lipo for self discharging first...

 

[BillW50]

Here is a nickel spaced build I did on a Kanger Subtank RBA that had taken about 100 seconds to build and mount. I just love this stuff!