The switch plate where the USB port would go on my Billet Box is 1/4" thick stainless steel. I wouldn't even attempt to try and cut that by hand.
Holy crap! I thought it was aluminum, yeah I can see your point. Man those are really built to last, your great grand kids may have them one day.
The stock plates are aluminium, mine just has that fancy shmancy one on it.Holy crap! I thought it was aluminum, yeah I can see your point. Man those are really built to last, your great grand kids may have them one day.
There is still a 1/4" shoulder to carve out but it would be much easier, until the Dremel bit jumps and dances across the face of the plate.
In other news, my Luxotic started working properly again from the continuing to fire after you let go of the button syndrome. Having the cover plate off of the board/510 section lights up the side panel quite nicely, I shall drill a hole directly over the LED so the plate can go back on. 
In other news, my Luxotic started working properly again from the continuing to fire after you let go of the button syndrome. Having the cover plate off of the board/510 section lights up the side panel quite nicely, I shall drill a hole directly over the LED so the plate can go back on.
View attachment 797135
I like that pattern, seriously. But I can't help myself without saying, that's a honey.
@Steamer861 Another bridge for the EUC coils. This one is smaller, fits a regular tank and has the coil mounted nice and low to get all the juice. Still a $65 tube though, hopefully an Asian version will surface.
The EUCapsule (DRizzle coil)
The EUCapsule (DRizzle coil)
@Steamer861 Another bridge for the EUC coils. This one is smaller, fits a regular tank and has the coil mounted nice and low to get all the juice. Still a $65 tube though, hopefully an Asian version will surface.
The EUCapsule (DRizzle coil)
Looks like a better bridge for the EUC coil
$65 USD +1 on the Asian version I noticed FT is discontinuing some of the EUC coils
I ordered 10 more Just Incase, they become scarce. I'm quite pleased with them The EC-M Not So Much BTW how you liking the Ti Clapton's? IMO there the best TC Clapton coil's I'v tried
Okay I'll give them a shot.
Last April I had taken a chance and purchased a Mystery Juice Bundle 600ML from Flawless Vape Shop for 20 bucks. Yes, most of the juice I didn't care for. But there was one called Strawbeezy and that was 200ml of the bundle. That one alone was worth the 20 bucks.
It's creamy strawberries on inhale and graham crackers on exhale. It's my ADV for my DL vaping (I have another one for MTL vaping). And they lowered the price down to $10.99 per 120ml. I don't know how long that price will stay, as I heard it is only temporary. So it might be worth a shot. I ordered 600ml of it myself, but I should have ordered a gallon or two.
Looks like a better bridge for the EUC coil
I noticed FT is discontinuing some of the EUC coils
BTW how you liking the Ti Clapton's? IMO there the best TC Clapton coil's I'v tried
I'll have to throw a few boxes of the EUC's in the cart at FT as well as some more Fuji drip tips at 3F. The old Stingray-X drip tip used to be my favorite back in the day on MTL gear and this Fuji is a shorter version with MTL insert if you want that option.
That 24ga Ti wrapped in 30ga is some rigid wire to wrap.
I put a pair of 2.5mm 4 wrap in the Supreme V2 on the VT133, I don't have many dual cell DNA's so it was either that or on the Drone. I'll wait to hear about your BTFC and consider picking one up, it would work quite nicely with a pair of 3mm coils from the other strand.
I run the 0.4 ohm build in the SV2 with the stock Ti profile at 85W/450F, I don't usually build 2.5mm coils but 3mm wouldn't fit in the SV2 and I don't have a DNA mod that will take the Plus. The Aegis is not powerful enough, the iJoy Captain is dangerous using TC, and the LUX has a barely functional implementation.
Flavor and vapor production is excellent, that wire would be awesome in 26ga with a smaller 34 or 36ga wrap. I've burned through two 8ml tanks of juice so far in the SV2 and am really enjoying the build. Would be interesting to spin up some 3 or 3.5mm versions with 7 or 8 wraps.
The Ti captions are a fairly big mass of wire, it takes some serious power to ramp them up fast enough. I have duals in my Drop Dead @ .45 ohms, it draws 37 amps! I wanted to make a smaller gauge wire, but the wrap wire under 30 gauge Ti is too flimsy to get a nice tight wrap with out breaking IMO the 2 by 24 wrapped in 30 is more conducive on a single coil build, I run single Ti captions in all my Plus's on the single coil deck, ohms out @.1ish
When the BTFC comes, I'm going to try smaller Ti clapton duals, the amp draw from the 2 bigger ones on the Drop Dead, is a bit too high! The performance is Stellar but, on the dual 20700 250c, I need to get the amp draw below 30!
IMO the 2 by 24 wrapped in 30 is more conducive on a single coil build, I run single Ti captions in all my Plus's on the single coil deck, ohms out @.1ish When the BTFC comes, I'm going to try smaller Ti clapton duals, the amp draw from the 2 bigger ones on the Drop Dead, is a bit too high! The performance is Stellar but, on the dual 20700 250c, I need to get the amp draw below 30!
From what I understand, that build is putting 37A to the coil from the chip, it's not drawing 37A from the batteries. A setting of 150W will pull 150W from the battery pack, doesn't matter if it's outputting 12A@1Ω or 38A@0.1Ω
Getting the draw below 30A on a mech yes, but not really required on a regulated. Isn't there a 30A fuse on the DNA battery line?
Getting the draw below 30A on a mech yes, but not really required on a regulated. Isn't there a 30A fuse on the DNA battery line?
35 on the 250c
Strange thing with a DNA200 (Hotcig DX200)
I have one DX200 that the DNA reads the cells voltage all over the place (from .4 to 5v) when in fact they are all at the same voltage. I tossed it in a pile for a rainy day when I could replace the board. Much later... I was using two of my DX200 today when I was checking all 14 of my DX200 lipos with my lipo battery meter. None of them had any cell lower than 3.5v and all of them are still balanced well.
So I was going to charge up the ones that are a bit low. Instead of using my RC chargers like I normally do, I was going to use one DX200. Popped in one lipo which was reading 3.6v on all cells and when the charge screen showed up, it displayed 0.00A. What's the deal? Connected it to EScribe and cell voltages is all over the place. I thought oh no, another DNA with a bad battery management chip.
So I was going to toss it in the rainy day pile. But then I was thinking it was just working fine with this other lipo. Tried that one again that was just working and all cells are reading correctly and it charges too. Got curious and grabbed that other one out of the pile and used that same battery. And now that DX200 is also working fine and doesn't need a new board. Now the only thing that makes sense to me is the balance (JST XH) connector on that lipo might not grab tight enough when used in a DX200, but good enough for the lipo meter.
Thats good to know
I thought I was over stressing my Batteries!So theatrically I can't draw more than 35 amps from my batteries with the 250c, with out the fuse blowing?
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