Strange thing with a DNA200 (Hotcig DX200)
I have one DX200 that the dna reads the cells voltage all over the place (from .4 to 5v) when in fact they are all at the same voltage. I tossed it in a pile for a rainy day when I could replace the board. Much later... I was using two of my DX200 today when I was checking all 14 of my DX200 lipos with my lipo battery meter. None of them had any cell lower than 3.5v and all of them are still balanced well.
So I was going to charge up the ones that are a bit low. Instead of using my RC chargers like I normally do, I was going to use one DX200. Popped in one lipo which was reading 3.6v on all cells and when the charge screen showed up, it displayed 0.00A. What's the deal? Connected it to EScribe and cell voltages is all over the place. I thought oh no, another dna with a bad battery management chip.
So I was going to toss it in the rainy day pile. But then I was thinking it was just working fine with this other lipo. Tried that one again that was just working and all cells are reading correctly and it charges too. Got curious and grabbed that other one out of the pile and used that same battery. And now that DX200 is also working fine and doesn't need a new board. Now the only thing that makes sense to me is the balance (JST XH) connector on that lipo might not grab tight enough when used in a DX200, but good enough for the lipo meter.
HotCig made a change on the DX's at some point during production, the early ones had a problem with the pins on the balance connector not reaching the contacts of the balance connector on the lipo (the battery pack side) and that created that wonky cell reading from the bad connections. What they did to fix that was solder the JST connector out farther from the board so the pis stick out father and then they put two clear plastic shims under the JST connector, see the pics below. The second pic shows how the pins are soldered on flush with the back side of the board. I fixed two of mine that had the short pin problem by taking the 200 board out, then carefully prying the body of the JST connector up and off the pins, then resoldering the pins so they were flush with the back side of the board, then once done I made a spacer to fit under the JST connector and slid the body of the connector back on, problem solved.
Sorry for the delay, and I know the cutout looks in the same place as the prior posted pic.
Alrighty then, here's the pics with the problem identified with using the Evolv 1A charging/data board.
Top pic - Right one shows the front view, and the USB is not centered between the 2 screw holes. Left is from behind and you can see the cutout for the micro connector as it stands proud from the board. BUT there's co cutout by the screw hole on the right.
Bottom left pic is the evolv board, and the USB is centered.
Bottom right pic is a head on view and you can clearly see the cutout on the left, and no room on the right for the PCB. THIS IS THE ACTUAL BLUE OF THE COVER.
PM me if you still want one.
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I understand why your saying, it looks like it's too close to the screw hole! It does
If you look at the sxk clone pic, the hole looks the same.
Maybe the usb board can be trimmed a bit? I would still like to give it a try
Whats the worst that can happen? I could screw up one of my clones & have to buy a new one with the usb all ready installed
Steamer861 OR find a different board with an offset connector. Willy might have an idea, or I know a guy with a Chunky .... that might know
PM me your address
PM me your address
Steamer861 OR find a different board with an offset connector. Willy might have an idea, or I know a guy with a Chunky .... that might know
PM me your address
I saw a pic some were with an after market usb board connected to a DNA 60.
I just cant find it any more
BTW Here's the best price I'v seen for an SXK clone with the USB port
I can vouch for this site
I ordered a Boxer clone from them no issues P.M. Sent
SXK Billet Box V4 DNA60 Vape Full kits-USD 90|legendgadget
Without seeing what the mod body looks like with the cover removed it's hard for me to judge. You guys do know you can wire the 60 with just a plan USB port like the one below and get escibe but it won't give you charge capabilities, that would be one thing I'd suggest for consideration to solve the problem. You'll have three wires to connect and on one you add a 10K resister, like this. Remember the ZNA mod I put a 60 in and wired a plain USB connector? I can tell you, those tiny legs on the USB connector are no fun to solder up...
The ZNA I put the 60 in and used a USB connector for escribe.
I should have waited and ordered smaller wires but I wanted to get it done, tiny wires is all you need, only carrying signals, no real load.
I used hot glue to fill in around the connector.
I should have waited and ordered smaller wires but I wanted to get it done, tiny wires is all you need, only carrying signals, no real load.
I used hot glue to fill in around the connector.
I saw a pic some were with an after market usb board connected to a DNA 60.
I just cant find it any more
BTW Here's the best price I'v seen for an SXK clone with the USB port
I can vouch for this site
P.M. Sent
SXK Billet Box V4 DNA60 Vape Full kits-USD 90|legendgadget
They make small break out boards like the one below, easier to solder up if you have the room for it but if the charge board won't fit I doubt a break out board will, but then again you might be able to file the board back on the sides of the port, I don't think there are any tracks sandwiched in the board there in the front.
Here' a few pics Willy May need to dremel a bit of room into the side?
You can clearly see the door mounting holes & were the USB board would have to fit
There is no doubt in my mind You could Pull this off Willy
May need to dremel a bit of room into the side?You can clearly see the door mounting holes & were the USB board would have to fit
There is no doubt in my mind You could Pull this off Willy
Here' a few pics Willy
You can clearly see the door mounting holes & were the USB board would have to fit
There is no doubt in my mind You could Pull this off Willy
Yes, if there is enough room you'd have to open that area up for the evolv charge board to fit, you could remove part of those snap off mounting rails that's on each side of the board, the yellow area points out those rails, the blue arrow is where you could remove part of it and make some more room for the charge board to fit in.
But it also looks like you would have to remove material on the back side of that cover plate where I put the lines in the pic below, you'd also have to do away with that one cover screw, looks like that's the only way the USB port would set flush on the outside of that cover plate. That's only going by what I can see but that would be my first thoughts. I guess I'd have to ask myself how badly I wanted to have charge capabilities, if not so much I'd go with a plain USB port. If you go with just a USB port you may not have to modify the cover plate, if you did it sure wouldn't be as much as trying to fit the evolv charge board. I'd also take the mod apart and see if there is room else where for the charge board, could always drill and file a opening for the port some place else, if there is room for the board. They ain't making it easy!!
The positive battery contact is under there. Probably not enough room. The spot were SXK put it is the best choice I would say. maybe a bit of the case needs to be dremeled back there & the screw hole is close but I think it can be done
The positive battery contact is under there. Probably not enough room. The spot were SXK put it is the best choice I would say. maybe a bit of the case needs to be dremeled back there & the screw hole is close but I think it can be done
Oh yeah, it may not be the easiest modification but yeah I'm sure your right, there is a way. One of the parts of tinkering I love is the problem solving, thinking it through. Sometimes I'll take one apart, look it over and set it down for a day or two and just keep running it through my head now and then, different idea's will pop up then I'll go back to the bench and handle the parts again. Sometimes that will go on for a long time before I ever start working on something, I enjoy the challenge of figuring it out and then actualy making the parts work.
I remember back in school they gave us all these different tests to see what natural skills we had, I remember the shop teacher telling me one of my strongest points was I could look at a blueprint and see the object in my head from all views, like 3D. I remember being surprised when he told me that and I said to him, "Your telling me that's not something everyone can do?" and he told me no, not everyone can. I was taken back and surprised because it's so natural to me. I took classes in drafting (blue print drawing) and machine shop, I wanted to be a machinist like my father was but once I got out of school it was easier to get a job as a mechanic then a machinist and I was all into hot rods then so I just followed that path. The machine shop skills still came into play while rebuilding engines and transmission so time spent in those classes were well worth it. Now I just like to tinker on small stuff, stuff that I can do at my inside the house bench where it's warm and the coffee is close by...
Well that's too bad about the plate, it probably fits the SXK perfectly.
Waaay to much work and effort for me to try and adapt that to the authentic. I'll stick to wiring up a female header strip with wire wrap wire, solder it to the board and leave it under the switch plate.
I do have the original switch plate that is aluminum, a cutout to mount the header strip through it could easily be done. That way I'd just have to pop off the door panel and plug my charge board in.
When I get tired of looking at the TRVP plate I might consider it.
Waaay to much work and effort for me to try and adapt that to the authentic. I'll stick to wiring up a female header strip with wire wrap wire, solder it to the board and leave it under the switch plate.
I do have the original switch plate that is aluminum, a cutout to mount the header strip through it could easily be done. That way I'd just have to pop off the door panel and plug my charge board in.
When I get tired of looking at the TRVP plate I might consider it.
@Steamer861 Mooch has a blog post about regulated current draw if you haven't seen it. You can substitute whatever your maximum used wattage would be in the equation, it doesn't have to be the max wattage of the device.
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Darn you guys, I keep pausing The Walking Dead show and coming back to see what you posted on that mod, it's running through my head now. 
Well, that's the temptation when watching TV on my computer, I can just click on the emails during commercials, but then I get side tracked LoL. OK, back to the show, later.
Well, that's the temptation when watching TV on my computer, I can just click on the emails during commercials, but then I get side tracked LoL. OK, back to the show, later.
Well that's too bad about the plate, it probably fits the SXK perfectly.
Waaay to much work and effort for me to try and adapt that to the authentic. I'll stick to wiring up a female header strip with wire wrap wire, solder it to the board and leave it under the switch plate.
View attachment 797459
I do have the original switch plate that is aluminum, a cutout to mount the header strip through it could easily be done. That way I'd just have to pop off the door panel and plug my charge board in.
When I get tired of looking at the TRVP plate I might consider it.
Now there's a good idea! Nice!
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