Evolv-ing Thread

BillW50

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I have no DNA60 as yet so I'm not familiar with the extra setting for preheat in EScribe, the C's are certainly different from the non-C's in that regard.
It's exactly like the DNA75, 200, and 250. You can use EScribe and open up a new DNA60 file and see for yourself. ;) The only thing I noticed that the DNA60 lacks and maybe the same with the DNA75, it doesn't report the USB voltage nor current.
@BillW50 , need to see the voltage on the cell while firing.
Looks like it got to 448F in about 0.3 seconds, can't really tell for sure the time.
Looks to be using 448 instead of 450 for set temp.
If mod resistance is 0.04 ohm then you have a problem, should be somewhere between 0.002 - 0.012 ohms. There may be added resistance due to the atty adapters though, not sure.
Again, lets see that voltage drop.
:facepalm: I hate showing battery sag since too many people freak out about it. If it can supply the watts that I need, I could careless how horrible it looks. :D Oh the mod resistance is usually that low? Oh yeah, I was off one decimal point. :lol: Anyway this is a 20 second firing set at 400°F. This is over 1 second to get there with a hot coil.

BB SXK Hellfire Exocet RTA Ni200 Clapton 26-32-002.png


Here is it set on 450°F and a 11 second firing. And it is almost there. Of course upping the 30 watt setting would get it there faster. Weird, even though I am using 60 watt preheat, it never hits higher than 45 watts. Maybe because the punch is set at 5?

BB SXK Hellfire Exocet RTA Ni200 Clapton 26-32-004.png
 

BillW50

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Oh before I forget dwcraig1. That BB RBA that comes with it. Be careful with the chimney (bridge). It fits in the RBA pretty loose. Sure the RBA has an o-ring, but an o-ring slicked up with juice, well you know. As one time I was swapping tanks and loosening the drip tip holder (in BB talk, it's called a key), the chimney (bridge) pulled out of the RBA while the tank was full of juice. I don't have to tell you what happens next. :lol: So while you are unscrewing the key, make sure the bridge isn't turning too. I haven't seen the other Kanger bridge do it yet. But that fits tighter too.
 

BillW50

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Bill, I find it hard to ramp up an exotic wire with a DNA60 :( I run all my 60's on simple round wire :)
But 60 watt preheat takes care of it. Or upping the wattage to 60 if you had to. Sure battery life is horrible and it drinks juice like a Holley 450 CFM four barrel carburetor. But man, the flavor. :D
Ah thanks! I assume this adapter is included here?
 

dwcraig1

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Re battery sag: I was concerned if it was hitting the cell soft cutoff or not, as long as it's not set to 3.5 then it's not being any problem.
Mine, when I get it, I'll be setting cell soft cutoff to 2.75 volts if it's not already.
My delivery est has changed from Tuesday to Monday.
 

BillW50

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Mine, when I get it, I'll be setting cell soft cutoff to 2.75 volts if it's not already.
Yes, that is what they are set at, 2.75 volts.
My delivery est has changed from Tuesday to Monday.
Oh great! I don't have a date on my second one, but I am guessing Monday or Tuesday. As it made it through US Customs on Thursday.
 

BillW50

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Is this with Ni200? Not much change of resistance between cold and hot.
Yes it is, Ni200 26/32 Claptons. What do you mean between cold to hot? Cold it's 0.055Ω and hot it is 0.118Ω. That is right on the money. Oh your looking at the graph. That is because I have the marker on the highest wattage and not at the start of the firing. :D
 

dwcraig1

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Yes it is, Ni200 26/32 Claptons. What do you mean between cold to hot? Cold it's 0.055Ω and hot it is 0.118Ω. That is right on the money. Oh your looking at the graph. That is because I have the marker on the highest wattage and not at the start of the firing. :D
Ya, I was looking at the graph (.092)
 

ShamrockPat

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    BillW50 and dwcraig1, here are MY BB comments/thoughts based on my usage.

    • Clean connections is paramount for TC vaping. That includes the 'key' threading and the corresponding threading on the frame.
    • Fine particulate at the bottom back where the boro is open to the BB, and on the back of the panel is condensation. Anything more means you need to fix your build. If the back of your boro is wet it's probably coming from the top (pull out your drip tip and dry with a q-tip) or maybe that o-ring on the key.
    • I don't lock the resistance until it has finished refinement, and that takes a couple cycles.
    • You can't run Case Analyzer on any 60 board, but you sure can get that room temp correct, manually. You could probably do most manually but I don't have a dedicated USB so I don't care.
    • I usually snug down that key with a coin, and a bit more than I would tighten a tank.
    • You can refill without removing the boro, the glass slides down and touches the frame opening up enough room.
    • For that exocet I use the Geekay vapes method. Once I put on that cap covering the wicked coil, I slightly twist it off-center to form an S, trim exterior cotton, damn up the top portion with some of the tail, then trim again.
    Hope you find at least one of the above helpful. :banana:

    And yeah, if you have a max power set at 30, raising the punch will get you closer to 60.
     

    ShamrockPat

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    Couple more things. SXK used to ship theirs with the screen orientation upside down, so your hands got in the way to make changes. This is the proper orientation.
    And if you load the latest intl firmware, you get wattage Punch for those higher mass coils.
    Jeroen Combined.JPG
     

    TrollDragon

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    Handy accessories...
    Ultem boro window.
    I have two, a plain one like below and one with tackle engraved on it. (Albert is a funny guy. :lol:)
    20181112143417-01_grande.jpg


    A Condensation Plug is a must have IMHO, there are many available, I have one of these.
    20181207132714_grande.jpg


    What would be nice is one of the full Ultem boro's with the little fill plugs. ;)
    44312421_1846937705424013_8545491194662313268_n.jpg
     

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