Did you ever get it apart? When I saw your post, I looked for a video or something of someone already who had done it. I couldn't find anything on the 250C. And now I am wondering if taking apart a Drone 250C is close enough? At least some of them are transparent and easier to see how they come apart.
orion Plus $29.99 Buy Orion Plus DNA Kit - Lost Vape I Vape Hardware For Less I Breazy
Looks like a good selection still in stock
Shipping to Canada is too expensive But free shipping in the States with $50 order
IDK why I'm obsessed with this stupid thing? Maybe cause it has a dna? For $29.99 & a reasonable shipping rate, I'd buy one
Looks like a good selection still in stock
Shipping to Canada is too expensive But free shipping in the States with $50 order IDK why I'm obsessed with this stupid thing? Maybe cause it has a dna? For $29.99 & a reasonable shipping rate, I'd buy one
Of all the "little" ones I tried I liked the Snowolf Wocket best but I gave that away too.Orion Plus $29.99 Buy Orion Plus DNA Kit - Lost Vape I Vape Hardware For Less I Breazy
Looks like a good selection still in stock
IDK why I'm obsessed with this stupid thing? Maybe cause it has a DNA? For $29.99 & a reasonable shipping rate, I'd buy one
Did you get any of them? I bought four of the originals and I must have 60 original pods still left. I guess the Plus firmware works on the originals too. I never tried the Plus pods though. I have noticed the original pods will leak if juice is left in them too long. And the original Orions will drain the batteries in time even when off.
Orion Plus $29.99 Buy Orion Plus DNA Kit - Lost Vape I Vape Hardware For Less I Breazy
Looks like a good selection still in stock
IDK why I'm obsessed with this stupid thing? Maybe cause it has a DNA? For $29.99 & a reasonable shipping rate, I'd buy one
I have 2 on order now thanks to you.
I'm obsessed too. The pod choices of what works with which Orion is what is driving me nuts though.
No – did not get past what I wrote on that post. Suspect the front is 2 pieces, the first piece removed by the 2 top torx screws. No idea how to remove the second piece (the one with the carbon accents). I suspect it is fixed from behind, but can’t tell due to the lack of slack in the wiring.
From videos I’ve seen on the Drone and none C version Triade’s, they have a 1 piece face that is removed from the back once the battery caddy is removed.
Thanks. Yes, I watched those videos. Below I highlighted the 2 pieces. The pinkish section is removed from the 2 top torx screw adjacent to the fire button. This holds the buttons in place and allows access to their silicone gaskets. There are no further screws behind this panel
The blue(ish) portion I could not remove. Removed 4 Philips screws from the battery caddy and 1 Torx from the bottom of the device. The battery caddy is now free, but lack of slack on the wires does not give it much movement. There was no movement in the blueish panel. Perhaps it is snapped into place or even uses a little adhesive. Did not want to use any force.
No
shipping to Canada was $27 I'l find a good deal sooner or later, 3F had one silver one for 29.99 but it sold out fast!
I need to find a China site with them, shipping out of the states is never cheap & even at a good price for you Americans it's still too much to get shipped here
At Canadian sites this thing cost all most $100! After the CNY I'm confident I'l find one some wear for the right price
Lost Vape had used glue before on some of their panels. Like the Theron BF, there are screws under the accent panels and the panels are glued. If the Triade 250C panel is glued, it is probably like the glue used with 2 way tape.
No I meant did you get any Orions at all ever?No
Perhaps that is the case – like I mentioned I did not want to apply force. The purpose of my disassembly was to see how much juice got inside after an RTA decided to spew its contents. 5ml of juice down the side and all over my mouse mat which now has a nice lemony scent. Damaged o-ring was the suspected cause. To my delight very little juice got inside.
No! I'm still trying to find one dirt cheep! I'm more or less just curious about it & don't want to buy one if it's not the right price! I know they sell for around $30, if you can find them? If you start adding that much in Shipping it's not worth it
Way off topic, but I thought I remember someone mentioning that they were an electrical engineer and or in utility power quality. I have a custom house we wired and it isn't to the finish stage yet but the LED bulbs will randomly flash like someone used a camera flash. The coop utility company does not have an engineer and I am attempting to help figure out the problem. They left me access to the line before the meter and Saturday I went to the jobsite and monitored the line. The transients I captured were not large enough to flash the LED lamps but were really quick (around 4Mhz but varied) but voltage wise substantial (300V PP). I am going back this week to try to capture the large ones that cause the flashing. Here is a shot of one, then zoomed in, then further zoomed in. The yellow trace is one phase and the blue the other. Both phases seem to be in lockstep so I would think it is upstream of the transformer in the primary line.
They do not just happen at voltage crests but of course that is where I expect them to cause problems. Here is a decent one that can be seen to the left of center after zero crossing. It's PP amplitude is 34V and approx 4Mhz.
They do not just happen at voltage crests but of course that is where I expect them to cause problems. Here is a decent one that can be seen to the left of center after zero crossing. It's PP amplitude is 34V and approx 4Mhz.
They should be able to check the distribution lines, on the input side of the transformer. The spike would have to be a lot bigger there than after it has been stepped down.
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Check for nearby transmitters. I had a problem with LED floods "pulsing", even when powered off and the breaker turned off, and traced it to the local AM radio station, 25KW about 4 miles away. Some .1, 600uf, mylar capacitors cured the problem.
Believe it or not, they don't have an engineer on staff or a power quality division and said they don't have equipment like even my hobbiest stuff. They were going to sit there with a volt meter as if that would catch a short 4Mhz burst like that. Going to try to catch one big enough to trigger the LED flash and then take my storage scope to City Utilities which does have a power quality division and equipment that makes mine look like childs play and show them to see if they have any idea. On second thought don't know how well that will work since I had to prove to them when they rolled out their smart meters that they were tripping the GFI's on my temp poles because of the 1 watt UHF transceivers in them.
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