Evolv-ing Thread

Steamer861

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Many things were in it but here is what I kept: A never used Seagate 320 gb 2.5 GoFlex portable USB 2.0 hard drive, a Samsung camcorder and a

A iPhone probably has a better. Camera on board

The thing that bugs me about the C series is the failure rate. My original DNA200 is still running fine after all this time, over four years. The same is true of the ERM+s and ERM clones. Heck, even a Kanger DNA75 is still going after about three years while the Cs have all failed, in one way or another, in less than a year. The Cs are all in AlpineTech boxes so the cradle gets glued in (I hate screws showing on the face of a mod) so that means spending time with an Xacto knife getting the cradle out, then gluing it back in again. That's a big PITA.

The failures have been almost consistent, 75Cs have board and screen failures and the 250Cs have screen failures. Sometimes they've failed within a month of being replaced which is really frustrating. While Evolv may not be making the screens, in house, they are selecting who makes them (think quality). It happens to both the Mrs and me and we are both very careful to not have any leaks, or liquids of any type, getting onto the boards or even inside the mods. I'm just tired of doing the same things over and over again.

I do like the replay feature, but it just isn't worth the hassle of replacing boards and screens. In terms of functionality, we both use the same settings on our mods and rarely have to connect to Escribe unless we get curious about a particular coil/wick build so the additional menu items of the Cs, while nice, just aren't all that useful to us.

we have had totally opposite experiences!
I had had many old DNA’s. Fail.
Not even one C board failure. Yet. Except for the screens. :)
 

ShamrockPat

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    The HCigar VT133 blew the BMIC when the batteries were inserted wrong? That isn't suppose to happen on the VT133 because HCigar added reverse battery protection. I know it works because I and others has inserted batteries backwards.
    It was returned to me DEAD. I don't know for sure, but she's creative. I also took back an SDNA75. She's a mod beater, but has had an OG Pico (silver grey) for 4 years that still looks new and works. :)
     

    ShamrockPat

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    And then this happened yesterday to get the LV "C's" to an even number. Got it for less than a song :D
    upload_2020-6-20_10-27-9.png
     

    BillW50

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    It was returned to me DEAD. I don't know for sure, but she's creative.

    I can only think one cell was reversed and one wasn't. That might be a loophole in HCigar's reverse battery protection. :(

    I also took back an SDNA75.

    I put one in my cart dozens of times. :facepalm: Never checked out with one though. :(

    She's a mod beater, but has had an OG Pico (silver grey) for 4 years that still looks new and works. :)

    I can't keep track of all of the Pico models, there is something like 6 of them. I know two of them, stay far away from them (no, neither one wasn't the OG one). I have those Pico 21700 and the Pico Squeeze 2 (also uses a 21700). Both wonderful workhorses. I believe VapeSourcing still has the Pico Squeeze 2 in the US warehouse for 26 bucks with a code.

    Vape Shop Online E-Cigarette & E-liquid Best For Sale
     

    awsum140

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    The Cs are a mix. Some from the first release and some from substantially later. The failures have been the same with both. I have a DNA40 I built so long ago I can't remember when I actually built it, but will speculate back in 2015 or 2014, don't remember when the boards were released, and it still works as well today as the day I put a battery in it the first time. I've never had a battery management IC fail on any of them, regular or Cs.

    I'd say my problems were enclosure related. Problem with that as a cause is I also use AlpineTech cases for 250s, 200s and 75s. They are built the same way, in terms of wiring and board cradle, so that kind of eliminates the enclosure as a problem. When I wire any of them, regular or C, I always use the heaviest gauge wire on the data sheets, just because I tend to overdo things a little.
     

    mikepetro

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    I never warmed up to the "C" series beyond initial testing. The txt is too small for my advanced mileage eyesight. I too am never far from eScribe, and once a mod is set up I seldom need it. The older mono boards have just been a lot more reliable for me, not to mention a lot cheaper and easier to read.
     

    awsum140

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    Have you played around in the color boards EScribe's Theme Designer, mikepetro? I never tried this, but you should be able to enlarge the fonts. There is probably a few large font themes already out there.

    A larger font means less information on a tiny screen. Precisely the reason I don't watch video on my "smart" phone. Why bother when on the rare occasions changes are needed Escribe shows everything on one, easy to read even with my tired, old, worn out eyes, screen? I guess it boils down to how much you like to fiddle with settings.
     

    mikepetro

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    Have you played around in the color boards EScribe's Theme Designer, mikepetro? I never tried this, but you should be able to enlarge the fonts. There is probably a few large font themes already out there.
    Yes, I was on the beta team for it, and played with it a bunch. TBH, it was more hassle than it was worth (to me) when I could just take a 250 and an ERM enclosure and build a mod in an hour. I didnt value having all the onboard control as once I set it up I seldom have to tweak it, eScribe suites me just fine.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    Yes, I was on the beta team for it, and played with it a bunch. TBH, it was more hassle than it was worth (to me) when I could just take a 250 and an ERM enclosure and build a mod in an hour. I didnt value having all the onboard control as once I set it up I seldom have to tweak it, eScribe suites me just fine.

    Other than a slight change in Wattage every now and then don't do much messing after I get the thing set up in eScribe before using. I dim the screens, shorten their 'on' time, make sure that Kanthal and 'power' 0.5 Watt increments are selected.

    I dim the screens to 50% and cut 'on' times very short because I am a superstitious person. It appears that screens are a big failure factor in DNA, less 'on' the better. Now, I say 'superstitious' because I don't have a scintilla of evidence that my settings help or change a bloomin' thing. But I do the settings anyway for good luck, I don't have an Irish lass to kiss, if I did then I would choose that option.
     

    BillW50

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    Wow! I use the color screen a lot. As I monitor wattage/temp, resistance, voltage, amps, and battery percentage routinely. Other things I'll check a few times a day are individual cell voltages and the chart (Evolv calls Puff Info). I'll pop over to the chart too if a puff was either really good or really bad to see what it did differently. On a non color DNA, it is too late if EScribe wasn't already connected.

    If I charge with batteries in the mod, I'll monitor USB voltage, current, individual cell voltages, and battery percentage. The chart with Frank's Theme (he calls it Trend) also labels every puff with a time and date stamp. So if you don't have time to investigate something like while you're driving, you might know ever since 1PM something seems off. So when you have time you can page through since 1PM to see what had happened.

    Another useful thing about the time and date stamps I like is if you place a mod on the shelf and kind of left it there, like months or years. And whether it had batteries stored in it or not, it will tell you the last time and date you used it. That is how I know my DNA250C can sit for a year and still have more than 50% battery level remaining. And if it has been sitting there for a year, it is also time to show it some love.

    Then of course, there is Replay. Of course, you don't have to have it. You could constantly play with wattage (even with TC) to get that perfect puff. You could just set the wattage once and forget it. But it will vape different for each puff due to the temperature of the atty and coil. Or just Replay it. :D
     
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    BillW50

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    A few other things I can do with Frank's Theme that I am not sure if it is in other themes. So let me know if you can. There are more, but these are what I use a lot.
    • Toggle Replay enabled or disabled for any Profile.
    • Do the same for boost. Enable either power or temperature boost too.
    • Change the material for any Profile (can do for non color if you remember button sequence)
    • Reset puff counter.
    • Toggle to keep screen always lit (handy when charging)
     

    ShamrockPat

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    I put one in my cart dozens of times. :facepalm: Never checked out with one though. :(
    Fantastic tiny mods. Same footprint as Evic Mini. Great build quality. I traded 1 for my Drone 250C, and the other is now a squonker. The black rubberized finish never wore down like VS.

    One of mine looks exactly like that one. :D
    Do the regular OG Therion BF doors fit? I'm betting they do. I can't stand white.
    There is probably a few large font themes already out there.
    Yeah, search for a user named Formula1 or one.
    eScribe suites me just fine.
    Same here. I'm cool with the default and a couple of my own tweaks.
    But IMO the C is. Superior.
    Great Replay boards. And 'warmth' can really f u up if you don't watch out.
    it will tell you the last time and date you used it. That is how I know my DNA250C can sit for a year and still have more than 50% battery level
    Maybe me and VB were the only 2 that used ecigstats. That's how I kept track.
     

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