Evolv-ing Thread

SlickWilly

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I'm in the process of slamming out a 75C today, building from scratch in a stock Hammond G box. It's not going to be pretty like the 200's below, those I built some time ago, not putting the fine details and brushed finish, just functional. I don't have the patience to make it pretty, besides I'll just end up scratching it up anyways, can always make them pretty at a later date. Got two more 75C's and a 250C boards waiting, maybe I'll get one more done this weekend.

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SlickWilly

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I could use some advice from those who have been using the C boards for some time, I need to decide how long to make my three buttons on my Hammond G build for the up, down & select. The buttons are made from shelf pins, an idea I stole long ago from vaping Bad, thanks VB! :thumb: The buttons will be the same as those shown below, would you have them all the same height or maybe the middle one shorter or longer and the up down the same height? How would you like the buttons if it was yours?

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awsum140

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If anything, Willie, the center/select button might be better a little shorter to avoid mistakes. Actually all the same length would work for me as well. My experience with C mods is limited to about two months though, so take this for what it's worth.
 

SlickWilly

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If anything, Willie, the center/select button might be better a little shorter to avoid mistakes. Actually all the same length would work for me as well. My experience with C mods is limited to about two months though, so take this for what it's worth.

That's what I was leaning toward, center a tad shorter.
 

BillW50

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Geek Vape BF RDA Deck.jpg


I needed another BF RDA this morning, so I went into my stock room. And I bought two Geek Vape BF Radar RDAs months ago. Nothing special, but I needed some BF RDAs fast and they were it. Well they came in and I didn't do anything with them. Two days later the other BF RDAs that I really wanted came in so I never touched the Radars.

Well when I went into my stock room today, one Radar was looking at me with sad eyes and said why don't you ever pick me? So I thought, okay why not! The post design is really weird. I call it a v-twin design. But I heard others call it diagonal posts, and others say staggered posts. Well anyway the grub screws and dropping the coils leads are at 45° angles. Weird, but it is super easy to build on. Actually one of the easiest I ever built on.

Dual airflow, either centered or adjustable slotted. That's kind of odd too. But did a build in no time and I started to vape. Wow, not bad. Lots of vapor and the flavor isn't bad either. I would judge it at above average. So it probably won't win any awards, but not a bad RDA to vape from. You can find them around 30 bucks and I say at that price, keep moving. But sometimes you can find them at about 15 bucks, now it might be a good idea to grab one. :)
 

kiba

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The lower res isn't so much a concern as the wire's tcr value, it's lower than it should be, that's why you have to lock the res at a higher value. Essentially you're just tricking the mod into thinking it has to reach a higher tfr value to reach your set temp. As you suspected raising the tcr value in escribe will fix the problem (for that particular wire).
There is another test that can be used for setting tcr that works, the dry cotton browning test. It works the same as the water boiling test and some prefer it over the water boiling test because it is performed at 420°f instead of 212°f ie at a closer temp to our normal vaping temps.

Dry Cotton Browning Test:
Dryburn and rewick with new cotton, set temp to 420°f with plenty of power, fire the mod for approx 5 sec, check wick for very slight light brown discoloration, adjust tcr as necessary.

Tip: Use a long piece of wicking so that it can be slid over after each test fire. This is most helpful if the tcr is too high and is burning the wick.

ETA: Just so I don't forget I annotate the approx tcr value on the wire spool. I have spools of SS430 with tcr values ranging from .00120 to .00146 written on them, so it can be way off.

EETA: I almost forgot! Don't use claptons or any type of multistrand coils for your tcr test. Use single strand wire slightly spaced coils for your tests as this increases the likelihood of establishing a solid connection at the post screws and eliminates the chance of having hotspots.
The problem is that they're all claptons, so. I'd have to disassemble the wire & use the core ID guess.
@kiba I usually do the Dry Cotton Browning Test with any new spool of wire. I scribble on my spools as well. I do a few other things as well as @cigatron. I usually test what temp my cotton will singe at first with a nickel coil as I've found it can vary probably due to moisture, etc. Then I'll create like 4 custom TCR starting near your expected value .00138 So probably 140, 145, 150, 155. Load 'em up in separate profiles, and starting with the highest, see if it scorches. If it does, I'll work my way down. When I find the two values between no singe and singe, I'll create TCR profiles this time 1 apart, and start at the middle value. Quick and easy to swap between profiles

The much easier way, IMHO would be to create an excel formula where you use a high TCR value starting point (like 170), find the temp of the singe. Look at the value at that temp (material screen, hover over the rise line), then mathematically work backwards to solve for the TCR.

I might sound like a cracker.
that's why I don't normally do it, bc of the having to create separate profiles... Tcr input it's the one thing I wish we were able to do if only for testing purposes.

eta, without using escribe I mean, every time I've done it I just to leave it hooked up to escribe... that's why I asked, I figured maybe someone here knew the answer & it'd be easier than going through that whole rigamarole.
 
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BillW50

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The problem is that they're all claptons, so. I'd have to disassemble the wire & use the core ID guess. that's why I don't normally do it, bc of the having to create separate profiles... Tcr input it's the one thing I wish we were able to do if only for testing purposes.

Then came Replay! TCR, what kind of wire, what size, etc. are all thrown out the window. That is all old school stuff now. :)
 

kiba

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^ Tbh I haven't even tried it yet, I only have 2 "c" mods & my gf claimed both.

I'm kind of set for what I have, I've got 2 mods that I use on the regular, a 166 and a 75 which are pretty adequate for what I need, I'd like a nicer squanker but I'm pretty much set for everything else w/ my Aromamizer & regular dna's.
 

BillW50

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^ Tbh I haven't even tried it yet, I only have 2 "c" mods & my gf claimed both.

Damn gf's... they always think whatever their bf owns, is theirs for the taking. :lol:

Anyway it doesn't bother me about using the old school method and I think it is pretty easy to work with myself. As I could take an unknown TC wire with an unknown TCR and it isn't really hard to figure it out in minutes. All you need is two temperature references. Say pick 200°F and 350°F. Other temperatures are good too, but best to start low first until you get closer.

Now wire at room temperature and the mod set on 200°F, fire! Where did it go? Is it hotter or cooler than 200°F? If hotter, your TCR is too low. If too cool, your TCR is too high. So adjust the TCR until it is at 200°F. The other reference temperature I use for fine tuning. The more of a difference between the two references, the more closer you can fine tune your TCR to.

You can use 212°F too and set the mod for 210°F. Then drip water on the coil and see when it vaporizes (too high) or just boils (close or just right). If you are experienced TC vaper, you probably already know what a 420°F vape is like vs. a 490°F vape is like. And that is what I usually use. No need for water, temperature probes, or anything. But when in doubt, yeah then it's a good idea.

EDIT: I got that backwards didn't I? Temp too high means TCR too high. Temp too low TCR is too low, I think. Let me think about it. :lol:

EDIT 2: Let's see, say I have SS316L wire and I am using a Ni200 TCR. Set at 200°F and the SS wire will go way over 200°F. So we need to make the TCR lower. No I had it right the first time. Never mind! :lol:
 
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cigatron

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Is it hotter or cooler than 200°F? If hotter, your TCR is too low. If too cool, your TCR is too high.

Typo Bill? If the tcr is set too low then the tfr values will be too low as well. That will cause the coil temp to be cooler than set temp, unless I'm having one of my lisdexic fits.
 
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Rossum

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Damn! Where did you get those at?
They're all made by one of the modders right here on ECF. I got some of them from him directly, some from the classies, and some were offered to me privately.

Yes, I have a weakness for them. :oops:

But don't get your hopes up; he's no longer making them.
 

cigatron

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Yeah that is a problem. I cheat and use a non-DNA mod that you can easily adjust the TCR with so I can discover what the TCR value is. Got one of those?

I've tried that with a Joyetech Cuboid, it got me close but didn't produce equal heat as the same tcr entry on my DNA's. I'm not sure but maybe the tcr algorithms are different between the two mod companies.
 

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