I just got up, waiting for the coffee now, I have all the stuff out in front of me.
When I come to my senses I will build a CW430 coil and put it in my Velocity, read ohms on dna then consult with SteamEngine for Unkamen SS430 resistance......my coffee pot just beeped...
Edit: good coffee, Steamengine says 3.51 ohm for Unkamen ss430
My dna screen says 3.6 and Atomizer Analyzer says 3.71 nominal for the CW 430.
When I come to my senses I will build a CW430 coil and put it in my Velocity, read ohms on dna then consult with SteamEngine for Unkamen SS430 resistance......my coffee pot just beeped...
Edit: good coffee, Steamengine says 3.51 ohm for Unkamen ss430
My dna screen says 3.6 and Atomizer Analyzer says 3.71 nominal for the CW 430.
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You probably know this already, with my Fluke digital meter I used when twisting wrenches, I have to short the test leads to see what the leads and internal resistance is then deduct that from my test readings, have you shorted the Atomizer Analyzer to see what it's internal resistance is? I'd also clean the 510 on the meter and on the atty real good with some IPA before testing. I'm very .... about keeping the 510 connections clean every time I refill or swap out to a charged mod, I have seen what looks clean be just dirty enough to throw my temps off enough to give me a hotter then expected vape.
With my weight scale I can set an empty container on the scale, read the weight and then "tare" it to read zero so anything I put in the container, the meter will disregard the weight of the container and the reading will only be the weight of the contents. Not sure is newer digital meters have a "tare" type function? Guess it would be nice if they did, I got use to checking my meter and I know what reading I should see when shorted, guess it also lets me know the leads and the lead connections are solid.
@ SlickWilly, the coffee was good but not that good.
The mod resistance was previously checked and set, the atty's resistance is something to be considered here.
This was done with a ERM 250
The mod resistance was previously checked and set, the atty's resistance is something to be considered here.
This was done with a ERM 250
Spin up the CW 430, vape it, then hit Replay. 
Poor Evolv fan boy has no C'sSpin up the CW 430, vape it, then hit Replay.
Signature Tips [UK] (and another place in the US) sells this copper plug that shorts out the 510. Signature Tips calls theirs the Calibration Tool for DNA200. I bought theirs because the machining is just beautiful. I know, it is just a screw. But it was worth the extra money. Maybe others here also has one of these.
What about the connections inside?
Yes, most digital scales has this feature. Although I believe they commonly call it zeroing out the scale. As most digital scales you find everywhere are not legal for tare. So I guess they stay away from that word.
A 510 to 510 adapter or a 510 cartomizer with it's end soldered over works just as well as the store bought plug......for those thrifty characters like myself.
Nice.I use the bolt part of the fat daddy vapes 510 install tool, stainless, cheap, 2 for $5. About half way down the page on the right side--> SHOP
There are battery connections, connections from the 510 to the board, balance connections, etc. All which are as important as the 510 to atty connection.
Nice.
There are battery connections, connections from the 510 to the board, balance connections, etc. All which are as important as the 510 to atty connection.
Ah, I've built all of my mods other then the three hotcig's and those I reworked, not bragging but my builds and soldering is pretty solid. All my mods have Evolv boards with escribe, when done building them I measured the internal resistance of each one, I named them and took a screen shot of the the resistance reading for future reference. If I suspect a problem I pop that tool in and check the resistance to make sure something hasn't gone out of whack. Knock on wood, other then one I've yet to have them change internal resistance, the one that did change was a hammond G box mod that had corrosion between the body and the underside of the 510, pulled the 510, scuffed everything clean with a scotch-brite pad and then it was OK.
To check a spool of new wire for res accuracy I measure out 10ft wire and use a dmm. Subtracting the meter lead's res is important (sans a 4-wire ohm meter) and dividing by 10 gives a very accurate res per ft.
Sorry, very bad connection today. Anyway, once I determine the res for a new spool of wire I do my build and then fiddle around with tcr values until the heat seems right. I mark both values on the spool for future reference.
TBH after playing with my first dna mod I have never run the atty analyzer again. I really don't find it very useful when I can measure wire res more accurately in 10ft lengths ie without the possibility of bad connections in the 510 and various atty connections.
TBH after playing with my first dna mod I have never run the atty analyzer again. I really don't find it very useful when I can measure wire res more accurately in 10ft lengths ie without the possibility of bad connections in the 510 and various atty connections.
Don't worry, you captured the moment well.
Now pass me a valium while they get ready.....
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My copper plug (the one first made from the evolv forums). Love that knurling. Here it is holding the 510 assembly on the new Paranormal. Can you see all the black in the threading and me calling it a POS before doing this. It was probably just mine.
I pretty much never use Atomizer Analyzer for measuring resistance of the wire. Mostly I use it to see that the mod resistance hasn't changed especially on a mod with chassis ground on the 510. But where it really shines is in a situation where the two positive pins only get a good contact at the very last turn of screwing it in, Atomizer Analyzer helps identify this situation. eg. 510 positive too low, atty positive 510 too short, both.
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