Usually not, it's a perfect tolerance fit, most of the time.
If your buttons are fitting a bit loose? You could shim the back of the buttons with a drop of CA glue, then sand them down to fit perfect from there.
You mean these switch buttons? Depends on the mod your building, most of the shapeway printed mods will either come with them or there will be a link for them on the page if they are sold separately. Generic buttons can be found here and there on vape supplier websites usually under a DIY category. For these Hammond box mods I made I stole the idea from fellow member vaping Bad of making buttons from shelf pins. Tell us what mod your building, a link would be best, and we can help you more from there.
I was kinda interested in this used Triade on eBay until I saw the battery compartment. Oh boy, I could fix it, but I'll never be happy with my quality of patching handiwork. Looks like someone removed the reverse battery rings and broken the battery compartment to me. Unless you can talk Lost Vape into selling you another battery compartment, I think just dropping in a lipo and just removing the battery compartment might be a better idea.
To adjust a perfect fit of the buttons you can do a couple things, one is to put a spacer between the button and the case on the inside, where the yellow arrow points I put tiny O-rings to push the button toward the switch but actually I used the O-ring to make a softer feel and stop rattling. You can also add materiel to the back side of the button where the blue arrow points to, I have used a dab of J-B Weld epoxy then once harden sanded it down for a perfect fit. I like to have the buttons putting just a tad of pressure on the switches, makes for a nicer feel when clicking them, no slack or play (looseness).
A $300 mod with one drop can turn into one not worth $20.... Drop one of my box mods and worse case you'll need to make a new box, cost $7 and an afternoon.
Yeah but Willy, those box mods are just uncomfortable. If I could buy a box like the Triade shape, I'd be all into it.
For example, I just got 2 HCigar HB40 box mods today. Luckily these are v3 with the clear window instead of the tinted. Beautiful box for sure and all for $25 complete. It also vapes terrific. But they are nowhere as comfortable to hold like a Triade.
Yeah but Willy, those box mods are just uncomfortable. If I could buy a box like the Triade shape, I'd be all into it.
For example, I just got 2 HCigar HB40 box mods today. Luckily these are v3 with the clear window instead of the tinted. Beautiful box for sure and all for $25 complete. It also vapes terrific. But they are nowhere as comfortable to hold like a Triade.
I know, we each go for what works for us. I seldom use my Hammond mods anymore, you are right, they are not that comfortable. Most of them I've since switched the boards over to the zbbmod kits, those are even easier to build & rebuild if needed, the Hammond boxes were just a cheaper way for me to get the new DNA 200 boards up and running in a mod when they came out. I was sooo jealous of the beta folks who had those very cool beta reference mods, I wanted one badly! That was a time when a lot of modders were coming up with their own mods built from scratch and there were some very cool ones like the guy who made one all from clear plexi. Some were adapting old mod boxes and some were building from scratch, it was a fun time to see who came up with what, well it was fun for me anyways. I just won't spend big bucks on a mod, that's my gig but like I said, we each march to our own beat and neither of us is wrong, just different paths. Main thing is we keep on vaping and stay away from the damn cigs!
Willy, earlier this week I saw one fella that filed down nails for his up/down actuators.
haha Bill. We could be twinsies. I usually buy in two's as well with the idea I'll sell the one I like least, knowing I'll never sell either.I am actually thinking about getting all 4 of them.
Me thinks .22 Hornet +/- with a .50 fire button would be amazing.
I like it! I've always been drawn to vintage hunting and shooting related stuff, if I saw something at a decent price I'd pick it up and use it for display in my reloading room. I have a lot of vintage and some odd ball ammo, full, partial and empty boxes of ammo and fired brass, I'll have to dig through it one day and see what kind of head stamps I can come up with. I know I have some old .22 ammo stamped with a old font U, I'll see if I can find a D for the up and down buttons.
It's fun to see what you can come up with and be creative. You can use a drill press or even a hand drill to chuck a part, spin it then use dremel's, cut off wheels and files to make parts, like turning parts on a lathe, that's how I reshaped the shelf buttons. Another time I wanted a thin brass nut to hold a Evolv 510 in a mod, I found a brass nut at Lowes then cut it in half on my drill press. I threaded the nut onto a bolt, chucked the bolt, spun it and used a cut off wheel.
I just noticed on these HCigar HB40s, the glue must have dried out and the magnets isn't glued into the covers anymore. The covers (and box) seems like they are made of some sort of heavy zinc alloy. So what is the best glue to reglue them back in, like superglue perhaps? Btw, they are long rectangle magnets.
These DNA40s have resistance lock. I don't know my DNA40 versions very well and I think there was four of them, right? Wasn't one of them you could change material for TC? Anybody remember the key presses in how to do that on a DNA40?
These DNA40s have resistance lock. I don't know my DNA40 versions very well and I think there was four of them, right? Wasn't one of them you could change material for TC? Anybody remember the key presses in how to do that on a DNA40?
I can't help you on either one, I've tried J-B Weld, regular expoy, hot glue and super glue and nothing has held my magnets permanently, the J-B worked the best but sooner or later they all come loose, I think it's because of the nickle coating.
The DNA40's, I'm not sure of how many versions and I don't remember being able to change the material on those but it may have been a version I don't have. I'm not much help...
this is what i went with,
Super Glue Gel
Make sure you get 'em right the first time...LOL
A Sharpie can help with that.
No on the TC material change, although I have seen mention of it but I think not.
I'll second the Super Glue Gel for gluing magnets. I've tried JB Weld and it loses its grip too soon. I even tried LokTite Gel and that didn't work worth a darn while the Super Glue does. Go figure.
I managed to screw up magnets on one of the ones I built, thankfully in a powder coated case. I soaked it for a few days in lacquer thinner and they did come out, but if you're using a plastic case I don't hink lacquer thinner is a viable solution, or should I say dis-solution.
I managed to screw up magnets on one of the ones I built, thankfully in a powder coated case. I soaked it for a few days in lacquer thinner and they did come out, but if you're using a plastic case I don't hink lacquer thinner is a viable solution, or should I say dis-solution.
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