Awesome mods @mikepetro @dwcraig1. Seriously like the wood. I want a high end mod like that but it's hard to spend that kind of cash on a wood/stab wood mod. And I'd really like to have a dicodes board mod. Color me jealous.
Daniel's tiny DNA75 looks awesome too. After using bigger mods, like the erm+ and Vaporflask, my son has a 3d printed 3d erm styled mod that is amazingly small and light. 75w vs 200w makes no difference to me.
Daniel's tiny DNA75 looks awesome too. After using bigger mods, like the erm+ and Vaporflask, my son has a 3d printed 3d erm styled mod that is amazingly small and light. 75w vs 200w makes no difference to me.
Well... I had a pretty bad "vape" day. The love affair with the squape x may be over. After just a few days of use, I managed to strip 1 of the teeny tiny grub screws for the posts. Then the atty simply STOPPED vaping!? As in it wouldn't fire. That actually started yesterday (maybe the day before) and has been getting progressively worse and more frequent.
Wiggle the coil, it Vapes again, then it'll stop, then loosen or tighten the 510 screw, again sometimes it'll vape again then suddenly stop. When it stops it shoots instantly to temp limit but produces no vapor. Today I saw 800f (yes 800f) and no vapor. I tried to get a picture but couldn't catch it. Then I saw a bunch of random large numbers like the large temp font but 6 or 7 digits. I tried it on my ERM + and my Vaporflask dna200/133. Same results (instantly shoot to temp limit and no vapor)
I recoiled with 2 simple 6 wrap spaced Coils, it vape for a while then the ohms jumped higher, it popped out of TC mode and would only vape in wattage mode.
Then, while out and about today and using my Vaporflask with dna200, the mod fell in the car, under the seat, hit the metal rail the seat glides on and took a chunk of the rubberized coating off <angry>. Then it fell AGAIN and scratched the front. I've had it for a while and never dropped it never scratched it, today it got scratched and a chunk of coating cut/broke off.
So yeah, a few days with the squape x were excellent and impressive, then something went terribly wrong? And I have no clue what... Yet.
Damaging my custom made Vaporflask dna200 frustrated me to no end...all day, heck it's 5am and I still haven't been to sleep from Tuesday. Not a good vaping day for me.
Wiggle the coil, it Vapes again, then it'll stop, then loosen or tighten the 510 screw, again sometimes it'll vape again then suddenly stop. When it stops it shoots instantly to temp limit but produces no vapor. Today I saw 800f (yes 800f) and no vapor. I tried to get a picture but couldn't catch it. Then I saw a bunch of random large numbers like the large temp font but 6 or 7 digits. I tried it on my ERM + and my Vaporflask dna200/133. Same results (instantly shoot to temp limit and no vapor)
I recoiled with 2 simple 6 wrap spaced Coils, it vape for a while then the ohms jumped higher, it popped out of TC mode and would only vape in wattage mode.
Then, while out and about today and using my Vaporflask with dna200, the mod fell in the car, under the seat, hit the metal rail the seat glides on and took a chunk of the rubberized coating off <angry>. Then it fell AGAIN and scratched the front. I've had it for a while and never dropped it never scratched it, today it got scratched and a chunk of coating cut/broke off.
So yeah, a few days with the squape x were excellent and impressive, then something went terribly wrong? And I have no clue what... Yet.
Damaging my custom made Vaporflask dna200 frustrated me to no end...all day, heck it's 5am and I still haven't been to sleep from Tuesday. Not a good vaping day for me.
Ohhh what's this? dna75 layout is customizable?
Picked up the pan head screws for the Silo mods. I know it's trivial but it does make a difference when handling the mod. You can feel the cap head as a sharp corner but with the pan head screws, it's rounded and feels better.
Here's a couple of pics that shows how much the cap head sticks out compared to the pan head.
Here's a couple of pics that shows how much the cap head sticks out compared to the pan head.
Yeah, I am surprised they used those. Too long and wrong head, almost sounds like they just used whatever they had on hand.
Got these for the ERM's at the link below, they happen to have a 10% off today with no min order, code WEDNESDAY
Albany County Fasteners | Official Store | Stainless Steel Fasteners & More
Albany County Fasteners | Official Store | Stainless Steel Fasteners & More
I think they were for their Silo 1300 or 2000 mods but the heads would still stick out, I think. I ordered the screws from Grainger and picked up at their local store.
I'm not a fan of allen head screws for small case screws. I find they tend to strip easier than small philips screws.
The ones I got are 304 stainless, about double the hardness of plain steel screws. Socket Button Head #2-56 Screws 304 Stainless Steel fasteners
But your right, and when a allen head screw goes south, they can be a bugger to get out. You probably know about the old grinding compound trick for getting a good bit on worn screws, works great and has saved my bacon many times.
But your right, and when a allen head screw goes south, they can be a bugger to get out. You probably know about the old grinding compound trick for getting a good bit on worn screws, works great and has saved my bacon many times.
Gearbest has them Original Vapecige SD Mini75 TC Box Mod
ETA: Code sdmini75 brings it down to $80 shipped
Yes but I've had enough strip even with good allen wrenches. And cutting slots to get them out is tough on small heads. I have some EZ-outs that might work but I like philips for screws this small. I have a few good philips screwdrivers that aren't worn that work very well on small screws so that's another reason I went with philips.The ones I got are 304 stainless, about double the hardness of plain steel screws. Socket Button Head #2-56 Screws 304 Stainless Steel fasteners
But your right, and when a allen head screw goes south, they can be a bugger to get out. You probably know about the old grinding compound trick for getting a good bit on worn screws, works great and has saved my bacon many times.
I already notice the difference with the new screws. I really like the Silo mod. It's about 2mm taller than my Hana v200 but it's so much more comfortable to handle. The square buttons look and feel better than the round buttons.
I might try to take one of my 950 batteries apart and rewire them as 3p1s for the DNA75's.
KTM, looking at that sd mini75 gave me a thought, if you could replace the fire button with smaller diameter one and with a plastic outer ring to fill in the gap, that ring would probably pull the light from the led, like a fiber optic.
You mention drilling a small hole and using a piece of plastic, that's what I did with a Evolv 1amp charger in a hana box. The plastic I used was...... from a CD case cover. I had pieces left over from making board brackets (thank you for the idea), I cut a thin strip from one edge and rounded it with sand paper until it fit.
You mention drilling a small hole and using a piece of plastic, that's what I did with a Evolv 1amp charger in a hana box. The plastic I used was...... from a CD case cover.
I had pieces left over from making board brackets (thank you for the idea), I cut a thin strip from one edge and rounded it with sand paper until it fit.
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