Evolv-ing Thread

englishmick

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Hi. Just checked into this thread hoping someone could help me out. It's way too long to read though.

Got a Jac with Evolv chip for Christmas. Today I made my first SS coil so I could try TC. It hasn't gone well so far.

I made a coil with 7 wraps of 28 SS on 3mm. Put it in an old Lemo Drop. It showed resistance of 0.8 ohms. Vaped on it for a while in regular mode at 8W.

Then I set up the Jac with temp of 405F and 316 SS. Fired it up and I got a fraction of a second of super heated vape and it went dead. Turned out one of the legs had snapped off where it left the coil. Made another one and the same thing happened, only that time both legs snapped off.

I made a third coil and I'm happily vaping with it on another mod in regular non-TC mode at 8W. I'm afraid to put it back on the Jac in TC.

I'm guessing something made the Jac throw major power at it causing the coil to self destruct almost immediately. I'm thinking I did something wrong with the coil. I've never used SS before.

Appreciate any suggestions on where to go next.
 

mikepetro

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mikepetro

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Hi. Just checked into this thread hoping someone could help me out. It's way too long to read though.

Got a Jac with Evolv chip for Christmas. Today I made my first SS coil so I could try TC. It hasn't gone well so far.

I made a coil with 7 wraps of 28 SS on 3mm. Put it in an old Lemo Drop. It showed resistance of 0.8 ohms. Vaped on it for a while in regular mode at 8W.

Then I set up the Jac with temp of 405F and 316 SS. Fired it up and I got a fraction of a second of super heated vape and it went dead. Turned out one of the legs had snapped off where it left the coil. Made another one and the same thing happened, only that time both legs snapped off.

I made a third coil and I'm happily vaping with it on another mod in regular non-TC mode at 8W. I'm afraid to put it back on the Jac in TC.

I'm guessing something made the Jac throw major power at it causing the coil to self destruc
Can you show us a picture of your build?

I am looking to see if you have a long uncovered leg. They can sometimes get pretty hot.

The other thing I would suggest is try starting your temp low, like at 280F and then slowly bump it up. It could be that the TCR doesnt match your wire. What brand wire are you using?

Are coils spaced or touching? Spaced coils tend to work better in TC.

Lastly, have you loaded Escribe? It would be interesting to see this leg breaker on Device Monitor. That will show you how many watts it is throwing at it during preheat. Also while you have Escribe running figure out your Mod resistance and plug that in there too. It makes a difference and the Jaq does not come from the factory with this value preloaded.
 

cigatron

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Can you show us a picture of your build?

I am looking to see if you have a long uncovered leg. They can sometimes get pretty hot.

The other thing I would suggest is try starting your temp low, like at 280F and then slowly bump it up. It could be that the TCR doesnt match your wire. What brand wire are you using?

Are coils spaced or touching? Spaced coils tend to work better in TC.

Lastly, have you loaded Escribe? It would be interesting to see this leg breaker on Device Monitor. That will show you how many watts it is throwing at it during preheat. Also while you have Escribe running figure out your Mod resistance and plug that in there too. It makes a difference and the Jaq does not come from the factory with this value preloaded.

Mike Petro brought up some valid points. Definitely check your preheat wattage in escribe.
Also realize that wattage levels in Power Mode and in TC Modes are independently adjustable. Just because your wattage is set to 8w in power mode does not mean it is 8w in TC Mode.
I'd say go with spaced coils as well when starting out with SS.
 

kiba

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I have to respectfully disagree. I think with most attys these days most of the current is flowing through the grub screws (by design). Just pressing a wire against a post doesn't scrub off oxides on the wire or create any gas tight connection points like the grub screw does. The wire to post connection also doesn't make as much usable surface area contact as a grub screw which smashes and gouges into the wire. The exception here would be if your atty has grub screw holes extending past the wire to post connection point (also referred to by some as a "pass thru hole" or "wire clipper" attys). In that case the wire to post connection could be just as good as the wire to grub screw connection that is, just before it snips off your coil legs. I hate those attys!
So with corroded/oxidized high ferrous grub screws there is a pretty good chance of adding some res at the wire to grub screw connection and more so in the grub screw threading.
Not saying that's what happening with your setup, just sayn'.
My favorite posts have no pass-thru holes and large allen head or slotted screws so that proper torque can be applied and identical materials used for the posts and grub screws to minimize galvanic corrosion. Gold plating is a plus too.
I put it in atty analyzer a few days ago... Compared it to the plus w/ a single coil and they're doing the same thing resistivity-wise... Idk even where I'd get the non-black screws all of my extras are like that.



Can you show us a picture of your build?

I am looking to see if you have a long uncovered leg. They can sometimes get pretty hot.

The other thing I would suggest is try starting your temp low, like at 280F and then slowly bump it up. It could be that the TCR doesnt match your wire. What brand wire are you using?

Are coils spaced or touching? Spaced coils tend to work better in TC.

Lastly, have you loaded Escribe? It would be interesting to see this leg breaker on Device Monitor. That will show you how many watts it is throwing at it during preheat. Also while you have Escribe running figure out your Mod resistance and plug that in there too. It makes a difference and the Jaq does not come from the factory with this value preloaded.

I used to have one... Bought on a whim to replace my beater but got rid of bc it's only 22mm & I chose to keep my beater vapor shark.... That mod comes with a pre-programmed curve for 316L, it's OK if a little low.

There's so many Chinese and non Chinese 316L's out there though, and they're all slightly different. (part of the reason I'll probably leave it alone in the future)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

ShamrockPat

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    There's so many Chinese and non Chinese 316L's out there though, and they're all slightly different. (part of the reason I'll probably leave it alone in the future)
    Yeah man, it's an alloy, that can change from 1 batch to another within the same foundry.
    IMHO, for an accurate Temp, one would need a thermoprobe like Mike, and test each new spool.
     
    • Agree
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    SlickWilly

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    Hi. Just checked into this thread hoping someone could help me out. It's way too long to read though.

    Got a Jac with Evolv chip for Christmas. Today I made my first SS coil so I could try TC. It hasn't gone well so far.

    I made a coil with 7 wraps of 28 SS on 3mm. Put it in an old Lemo Drop. It showed resistance of 0.8 ohms. Vaped on it for a while in regular mode at 8W.

    Then I set up the Jac with temp of 405F and 316 SS. Fired it up and I got a fraction of a second of super heated vape and it went dead. Turned out one of the legs had snapped off where it left the coil. Made another one and the same thing happened, only that time both legs snapped off.

    I made a third coil and I'm happily vaping with it on another mod in regular non-TC mode at 8W. I'm afraid to put it back on the Jac in TC.

    I'm guessing something made the Jac throw major power at it causing the coil to self destruct almost immediately. I'm thinking I did something wrong with the coil. I've never used SS before.

    Appreciate any suggestions on where to go next.

    I'm not as smart as the rest of the guys here but here's my thoughts. The thing that popped out to me was the legs breaking repeatedly, I've had problems in the past using soft Ni200 and over tightening the post screws on atty's that have post holes that were over drilled. I'd suggest checking your builds by taking a piece of the wire your using, insert it in a post hole leaving a inch over hanging and tighten as you normally do, then remove the wire and look at it closely and see if the wire has been pinched badly, now bend it gently and see if it snaps off easily where it was pinched. If your pinching the wire enough to almost snap a leg then your making a thin spot that can also effect resistance, the board will see a higher resistance and will apply more power in TC.

    When you get down to sub ohms in TC any induced resistance will effect your vape and you could be vaping at a much higher temp then your settings. Even dirty 510 threads on your atty or mod can add resistance, I'll press a doubled over piece of paper paper towel into the threads with my thumb nail, press HARD, your thumb nail will force the towel into the threads, rotate the atty as taking it off a mod it will follow the threads and unscrew, check the towel for dirt and repeat til clean. I force q-tips into the 510 on the mod and rotate, you might be surprised how black the q-tip will be.

    Everything needs to be clean and tight, but not too tight! You also need to make sure your atty is "cold" (at room temp) the first time you fire the board otherwise the board will see a higher resistance. The board will continue to read the resistance and refine, but it's important to start out "cold".

    You guys jump in if I'm giving bad advice. :)
     

    SlickWilly

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    I put it in atty analyzer a few days ago... Compared it to the plus w/ a single coil and they're doing the same thing resistivity-wise... Idk even where I'd get the non-black screws all of my extras are like that.





    I used to have one... Bought on a whim to replace my beater but got rid of bc it's only 22mm & I chose to keep my beater vapor shark.... That mod comes with a pre-programmed curve for 316L, it's OK if a little low.

    There's so many Chinese and non Chinese 316L's out there though, and they're all slightly different. (part of the reason I'll probably leave it alone in the future)

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    I get mine here Stainless Steel Socket Set Grub Screws I buy most of my stainless hardware from them, cheaper then anyplace else I've found and it's quality stuff. You can buy as few as one piece if you want. While placing an order don't forget to grab some spare allen wrenches, cheap. Allen Wrenches | Individual and Sets

    I bought a bunch of stainless deck screws from them last summer, cost me about the same as it would have for coated screws from lowes, no brainier. :)
     

    dwcraig1

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    So I decided to aggravate myself a bit and put a coil of 26 gauge ss317l into one of my TGT3's.
    I know just what kind of wattage that I should be able to attain.
    I had to bump up the temp to 510F to achieve the expected perfornance, my wattage/preheat was set slightly lower.
    Kind of a fail but with above settings it vapes pretty good.
    Certainly not a surprise.
    Normally I use SS430 @ 430F
     

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