Evolv-ing Thread

[cigatron]

I'm starting to think 316L is just garbage... Now I remember why I stopped using it, still confused as to why most people I've talked to prefer it over 430.

I'm going to have to make some out of nife or 430

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Could be they're not using TC. It works fine in power mode and especially well on mechs. On mechs it gives a nice "preheat-like" boost when cool.
I have some good luck using Temco 316L SS but it does drop in res and rise in res temp factor once broke in. With a new build when the vape begins to go anemic I let it sit at room temp for an hour, unscrew the atty, hit the fire button to clear the res and then screw the atty back on and re-read the res. It only takes .01 ohms drop in res to make an anemic vape. .01 ohms drop equates to approx 85°f cooler vape with 316L so re-reading the base/cold res is necessary when using SS (especially 316 and 317). With chinesium SS all bets are off as the TCR/RTF can be all over the place due to lack of quality control/assurance issues. 430 SS rocks for TC as does Ti and NiFe52 alloy. Those three have high res and high TCR/RTF values; both attributes being desirable for more accurate TC.

Hope this helps Kiba.

 

[cigatron]

I have a problem with developing hot legs inside the wraps, where the fused wire itself starts shorting or something. Its definitely not a coil touching another or the chassis.

Pulse rake pulse rake pulse rake.

 

[mikepetro]

Could be they're not using TC. It works fine in power mode and especially well on mechs. On mechs it gives a nice "preheat-like" boost when cool.
I have some good luck using Temco 316L SS but it does drop in res and rise in res temp factor once broke in. With a new build when the vape begins to go anemic I let it sit at room temp for an hour, unscrew the atty, hit the fire button to clear the res and then screw the atty back on and re-read the res. It only takes .01 ohms drop in res to make an anemic vape. .01 ohms drop equates to approx 85°f cooler vape with 316L so re-reading the base/cold res is necessary when using SS (especially 316 and 317). With chinesium SS all bets are off as the TCR/RTF can be all over the place due to lack of quality control/assurance issues. 430 SS rocks for TC as does Ti and NiFe52 alloy. Those three have high res and high TCR/RTF values; both attributes being desirable for more accurate TC.

Hope this helps Kiba.

I think that nails why I like TI so much better than SS316....

 

[mikepetro]

Pulse rake pulse rake pulse rake.

That sometimes works. Usually I just replace the coil as this happens after the coil has a little age on it. I just wish I could get more life out of them. It can be awkward to deal with raking a coil at work or wherever.

 

[kiba]

Agree on the 26650 I'm running 3 26650 mods & am really liking the battery life I'm getting

The Wire is Fused Clapton Titanium, I make my self, 2 by 24 wrapped in 30, ohms out @ about .11
Works Excellent in TC!

BTW what is "the blue liitokala" 26650? 20 amp 5000mAH sounds good, would like to try it

It looks like this, says "liitokala" on one side

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[cigatron]

That sometimes works. Usually I just replace the coil as this happens after the coil has a little age on it. I just wish I could get more life out of them. It can be awkward to deal with raking a coil at work or wherever.

Yep, SS does not develop an oxide coating as quickly, as tough as or with the electrically insulating levels of say, Kanthal. The wraps and/or core wires can short out again/later after initial pulsing. Pulling Rayon through the coil can disrupt the wraps enough to break through the weak oxide layer. That said, I've never had a SS coil redevelop hot spots after vaping the first 60ml thru it. By then the oxide layer is thick enough to resist abrasion.

 

[mikepetro]

Yep, SS does not develop an oxide coating as quickly, as tough or with the electrically insulating levels of say, Kanthal. The wraps and/or core wires can short out again/later after initial pulsing. Pulling Rayon through the coil can disrupt the wraps enough to break through the weak oxide layer. That said, I've never had a SS coil redevelop hot spots after vaping first 60ml thru it.

These were TI claptons.

 

[Steamer861]

I just wish I could get more life out of them.

Thats the Big issue with the Ti Claptons No dry burn.
For me they get junked up & the resistance changes, time for a new one.

I tried to un wrap them clean them real well with wire brush, put in the ultra sonic, don't help
Oh Well wires Cheep

 

[cigatron]

These were TI claptons.

Same same, Titanium takes forever to develop an abrasion resistant coating. That's why most advise to wrap spaced coils when using Ti. In addition, get Ti too hot and it will go off like a flash bulb. Don't ask.

ETA: Dryburning Ti above a dull red will cause the Titanium Dioxide coating to sluff off. Kind of looks like pealing scales under magnification.

 

[Steamer861]

It looks like this, says "liitokala" on one side

Looks like I can only find them on GB No Shipping to Canada

 

[cigatron]

Help me out battery buffs. It was my understanding a few years ago that there were only 4 Li-on battery manufacturers; Sony, Panasonic, Samsung and LG so all other labels are just re-wraps. Is this still true?

 

[SlickWilly]

Well that was a good game, well played on both sides. I don't watch that much football these days but I do like a good game. Only thing that could have made it better is if it was like the good ole days, Madden football.

​

 

[Rossum]

^^^^^^ This Philly boy couldn't agree more.

 

[TrollDragon]

My screws are black though.

The black screws are hardened and they will rust on you. I'd switch them out for the stainless and see if you still have issues. Some of the Plus users had resistance problems using the black screws

I wasn't overly impressed with the single coil deck, it works in the SV2 but whistles like a banshee for me in the SV1. I also found it to be a little finicky with wicking, it will dry hit quite easily.

Since the 510 screw comes all the way through the deck, I was going to put a squonk pin in it and use it in the SV2's dripper mode. Then my B2K's arrived and I had new shiny's to play with.

For 316L profiles, I use the default SE CSV as well as Jaquith's UD SS316L V4 that he posted to the Evolv forum. It runs a little hotter than the SE profile so you might need to turn the temp down a bit.

Here is the link he posted for the file.
http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv4

 

[TrollDragon]

I use the iJoy 26650's in my LUX and the Aspire 26650 in my AEGIS. I get better run time with the 26650 @55W than I do with the Sanyo 20700 B's.

The iJoy 21700's are junk, don't waste your time with them.

 

[laurie9300]

Hey Mike, have you had problems with the over drill of the grub screw holes cutting wire in the Merlin? I just rebuilt one for the Mrs., had it all wicked up and trimmed, and the one wire broke off. I had even triple folded the potion through the post to try to prevent that. I did a quintuple fold once I stopped cursing and rebuilt it AGAIN!

That's one of the things I appreciate about the Aromamizers, no over drill in the grub screw holes so it's very easy to get a tight, secure, connection with no worries.

Another option?:

If the over drill is deep enough, you can tap past the post hole and screw grub screws down past the post hole......

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[mikepetro]

 

[Steamer861]

I wasn't overly impressed with the single coil deck, it works in the SV2 but whistles like a banshee for me in the SV1. I also found it to be a little finicky with wicking, it will dry hit quite easily.

Nice heads up on the "Black" screws
I'm having a different experience with the single coil deck, I agree it does whistle, But mine are working really well! The flavour & vapour production is "Top Notch" for me I had retired my Supremes long ago, since the +'s came out. With the new single coil deck all three are back in rotation & I'm loving them again I would like very much if this style deck came out for the + & even the Lite

 

[mikepetro]

Nice heads up on the "Black" screws
I'm having a different experience with the single coil deck, I agree it does whistle, But mine are working really well! The flavour & vapour production is "Top Notch" for me I had retired my Supremes long ago, since the +'s came out. With the new single coil deck all three are back in rotation & I'm loving them again I would like very much if this style deck came out for the + & even the Lite

And the V1/2......