Well, I give up. I'm not in to fooling around and if that's what it takes to make these work, it ain't worth it to me. The wire, itself, is just too darn stiff to work with for my old, stiff, clumsy, hands. I chucked it on the Aegis and switched to the SS430 profile. I felt like the "perfessinal vaper" in that video, complete with flames but while I was taking that first hit. I tried a custom TCR on the dna, .00138, and it still drops right out of TC. Ripped t out and put a five turn, 26 gauge, Ti, back in and all is good again. I guess I can use them on the Kanger Drip Box I have, that doesn't work in TC worth a darn, anyway, so I'll use them in watts mode on that POS. If anybody wants to give you a Kanger Drip Box, give them $5 and tell them to keep it.
SS430 works well for me, Steamer. Easy to work with, once I temper it, and holds TC really well. Like I said, I've had good results using the Steam Engine curve as well as a set TCR value of .00138.
SS430 works well for me, Steamer. Easy to work with, once I temper it, and holds TC really well. Like I said, I've had good results using the Steam Engine curve as well as a set TCR value of .00138.
Interesting! I don't get that, I can get maybe 100 to 150 mills out of a coil.
Then the resistance starts to change
Thats when it's time to change them.I wonder why your getting the hot spots? I use 2 different wire types, the one from Reo Grande & MKWS from FT, both work good, all most the same. Only thing Reo Grande's wire is soft & easy to work with. But it comes with a $$$
You can get the MKWS wire from FT for cheep! mite be worth trying? just to see if the issue is wire related?
Well your results with the ADV Claptons aren't to encouraging
I should get mine next week.I will post my results when I get them.
I will consider them a waste of money if I cant use them in TC
You can get pre made Claptons from FT in Ni80 & kanthol for dirt cheep & they work well
I have been using Temco wire for mine, maybe a different wire is the trick.Interesting! I don't get that, I can get maybe 100 to 150 mills out of a coil.
Then the resistance starts to change
I wonder why your getting the hot spots? I use 2 different wire types, the one from Reo Grande & MKWS from FT, both work good, all most the same. Only thing Reo Grande's wire is soft & easy to work with. But it comes with a $$$
You can get the MKWS wire from FT for cheep! mite be worth trying? just to see if the issue is wire related?
Thats why I suggested it, I can't get the Temco wire here in Canada. Well I can get it from like Ebay, but it cost way to much. (Shipping)
I bit the bullet on the Reo Grande Ti, cause I didn't trust Chinese wire at first.
Now I can say the MKWS wire from FT is Good, it's stiff & harder to work with but vapes good
I tried the Ni claptons from FT a while back, my first fail with claptons. Again, no TC. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but there must be something I'm missing. I'll just stick with single or twisted wire coils. Heck, even twisted didn't give me that much of a warm, fuzzy, compared to a plain old coil.
Incidentally, Steamer, the SS430 I'm using came from unkamen, 28 gauge.
Incidentally, Steamer, the SS430 I'm using came from unkamen, 28 gauge.
When using SS430 I always anneal the wire before winding coils otherwise it's too springy. A bic lighter is all I use just heating it until cherry red then clean with IPA. Winds like Kanthal afterwards.
You wrap your own Ti Claptons?
I find to get a tight wrap I have to put a fair amount of tension on the wrap coil spool, I do that with the spring & nut that hold the spool.
Maybe thats Mike's issue? To loose wrapping wire?
I get the same results with the drill, I spin the Ti in the drill & it becomes easer to work with.
Thats just cause I'm all ways worried about heating the Ti.
Now that its public, I can talk about it. "Replay" works.
Ni80 Claptons? You could only TC those on a HohmTech, and that would take a fair bit of fiddling to get going.
I have AVS's dual and triple core 28g fused Clapton wire that I dry burn to what it says on the spool. They recommend dry burning below 25W. Mine is the SS316L, I didn't know they had SS430.
I have SS430 from Unk and Zivipf, both work perfectly with the SE profile.
Tried it, didn't work well for me. I only use Ti in a single strand spaced config. If I'm careful when dryburning I can get more than 8 months out of a set of coils. I use nothing but 24g Ti. I anneal Ti before winding with a bic too. No torches, too risky with my vision.
My favorite TC fused claptons are 26g SS430/36g SS316L. It takes a good bit of pulsing to develop a thick enough oxide coating to resist shorts long term.
Running a TI clapton in wattage mode and getting the same hit every time. Even when it starts gunking.
I have found that with the AVS Clapton wire as well if you build a contact coil. It takes quite a bit of work to get the hot spots out of the wraps. If it looks good at 25W, kick it up to 60W and watch them all come back. I've had less work with Genny mesh builds chasing out the hot spots.
Spaced is never an issue.
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