Used a DNA200 set up with the atomizer analyzer says 0.469Ω. Now that I trust! 
OK, round that up to 0.5 ohms with the battery's internal resistance and some resistance at the contacts. Now the 1.0V differential between the cell and the power supply cannot possibly flow more than 2 amps through that.Used a DNA200 set up with the atomizer analyzer says 0.469Ω. Now that I trust!
But IIRC, you were saying it only flowed 1 amp?
Yeah, but you get a quick current spike at first then the current quickly drops down. I'd bet the cell voltage climbed a bit so it probably isn't 1.0v difference anymore. You take a 3.2v cell and hit it for a second or two from 1 amp, they climb easily to say 3.5v or so pretty fast. It doesn't take much to change the voltage of a cell when its that low.
Haha
I have one from eons ago
Aren't they wonderfully craptastic
Not highly recommended for mech users
Literally the only thing I've bought in my vapelyfe where I wished I'd spent more money. It made me stop using external tools to measure res.
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Please stop being:
a) right
b) efficient
It's unseemly
Nothing gonna fix those radii issues I have though
Plus I've bagged those issues out on 2 forums now, and I think we both know I've painted myself into a corner and buying one now would be like admitting defeat. No, I think you know I'm going to sit in the corner and watch the paint dry...and hope for a plain box dna75c or build one. Why must vape vendors make my life hell. Plain box, chip inside, done..easiest thing in the world...
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Found another set of cables and they ohm 0.078. Wow! You can get a spark using the atomizer analyzer. Let me check something. Say there is 0.5v at the 510 when you use the atomizer analyzer. 
Fresh pot of coffee, check
Three new builds on fully charged mods, check
Time to head out to the shop, pull a non-starting, oil leaking engine from a John Deere garden tractor and pull the engine apart. Sounds like fun doesn't it? If you think it does, come on over and give me a hand cause I ain't looking forward to it....
Three new builds on fully charged mods, check
Time to head out to the shop, pull a non-starting, oil leaking engine from a John Deere garden tractor and pull the engine apart. Sounds like fun doesn't it? If you think it does, come on over and give me a hand cause I ain't looking forward to it....
Here's a 75C I built, plain old black box. With the dual 20700s in it it lasts me a few days of MTL. The box, board sled and battery holder are all AlpineTech from FleaBay and the 510 is a "Source" if it helps and the build was very easy. PS - I use a binocular jewelers loupe when soldering.
Cheers very much for the info, ill have a look around on the bay and see if its feasible lol
I think i still have a 3rd hand here somewhere, but would definitely need the loupe these days for soldering
Edit/Update: Checking out the AlpineTech stuff, but buying bit by bit from the ebay would be very expensive as its USD to AUD, and of course he inbuilt geo-gouge to ship it.
The most cost effective option seems to be the kit from Canada, as the AUD is *almost* at parity with the CAD.
ATI GLX2 Enclosure (Anodized Black) with internal mounting screws - i really feel id hate the tiny 8mm fire button on the other enclosures
2 x 18650 sled (im just not ready to roll the dice on 20700's, for one mod, and im never going to tax the current draw on an 18650 at my temps/wattages) - i get through a day and a bit on a single 18650 the way i vape...
ModMaker 510 (seems to be highly recommended, so why not treat myself)
ATI 12mm Low Profile Dome Fire Button
Deciding on whether or not i'd be a ....... and order it with pre installed magnets, because im lazy and why not let some other poor bugger fiddle with that
AUD$142
CAD$139
+ AUD$32 Postage
Total $AUD174
Couldnt get all the parts separately for that via the bay to Aus, so its a pretty fairish deal, is it worth it to avoid the current fugly mods...to me yes, i mean i paid $150 for my ePetite ($120 for the mod from Elego Mall on special at the time, plus $30 for the rosewood panels from the UK so i didnt have to look at fake fake kevlar)
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As long as you have a decent soldering iron, controlled temperature, it shouldn't be much of a problem no matter which case you decide on. I will say I've built over a dozen Evolv based mods and have only had one board failure and that was after a year of use. My original DNA40 is almost four years old and still going strong, but the "C" series with Replay is becoming my favorite.
Bench meters I've had or used in the past listed -# to +# of least significant digits (# being an integer) so it's a little odd but -1.2% to +5 ....
Ha, seems the standard notation for least significant digits L S D is censored. Hadn't thought if it that way.
Cheers, the one thing that id forgotten that makes it less of a drama is that whereas my HCigar used fly leads to the buttons, using the onboard buttons means only a minimum of wiring and soldering...the HCigar DNA40 horror was so embedded that id forgot this rather obvious change
Others too:
I built a few like that. And then said, "screw it, the vape I get from a mech is just as good".
Others too:
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I built a few like that. And then said, "screw it, the vape I get from a mech is just as good".
Jesus, i was just about to go to sleep, but now....the horror...wheres the humanity in those pics
Well, it was kinda cool to be the first kid on the block with a DNA 40 squonker.Jesus, i was just about to go to sleep, but now....the horror...wheres the humanity in those pics
Well, it was kinda cool to be the first kid on the block with a DNA 40 squonker.
All that pain to oppose gravity
You squonkists are a determined bunch, ill give you that
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