Evolv-ing Thread

[SlickWilly]

Steamer, I'm just guessing but there's been a few complaints about that problem.

The Ni200 I have is tempered. I pulsed it tomake sure there were no hot spots, so there went the temper. The twisted held enough strength to get a reasonable wick in after pulsing it. That's 28 gauge Ni I have on hand by the way. The only thing I use it for is that old, but very reliable, DNA40 low tank I kludged together.

You know I also have some of that Ni200 Clapton Bill turned me on to, I got that just for the Merlin's but only used it a couple times, I can send you some of that as well. Man, my head is really up my .... today, sorry... I've been having a real rough time with the spine the last week and a half, hitting the pain meds and heating pad at max. The doc to sent me a short term dose of steroids to help get me past this hump, only 2nd day in on the steroids so hopefully a few more days and I'll be back to "normal for me ".

 

[awsum140]

I meant brittle as in it breaks far too easily. The tempered I have is like trying to re-wrap a spring into a coil, way too stiff for my tastes. Wrap a 3mm coil and it turns into 5mm coming off the mandrel. Ti on the other hand, besides a thumb and four fingers, is a snap to work with and very strong. Occasionally a grub screw will cut a wire if I get carried away, but with Ni it happens long before that. You know you've got it down when you can put a freshly re-built tank on your mod and not get a "New Coil" prompt.

Willie, I appreciate the offer, but Claptons, other than "Leyla", just don't do anything for me. I can spin up the 28 gauge twisted easily enough and it works quite well for me.

 

[BillW50]

While I don't like SS316L too much, but I have had every good luck with TC with them on DNA mods. Other boards are hit or miss doing TC with. And I believe why it is largely used for TC is because of its high resistance. Heck I have tons of Crown SS316L head heads (160+) that are 1.2 ohm coils. That is very high resistance for TC wire. I also noticed that SS316L at higher resistance like 1.2 ohm is much easier for mods to keep the temperature stable.

 

[ShamrockPat]

BTW anyone try this yet? $13.93 Kindbright MTL RBA for BB Box Mod at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping This is a clone obviously but Svoemesto designed the Original

I didn't know the Crossbow was Svoemesto. Don't have one and I'm so happy with the exocet, never even felt any interest in an original or clone.

I keep seeing people complain about the "C"series, more so the 250, over on the Evolv board. Just a casual observation but the common thing seems to be they're all using 316L. IMHO 316L just isn't very good as a TC wire. It gave me fits in the 75, 200 and 250 so I don't use it at all anymore.

IMHO it's not solely the wire. Now that they've dumbed down TC in favor of Replay, I think it puts more onus on the Mod manufacturer to produce a better product. At a minimum that 510 has to have a solid perfect connection as well as a great ground. Followed by a solid build of course. My 2 POS Paranormals are barely half as consistent as my 1 4S custom LiPO. And that's after the POS's have crossed the border twice to Ohio. They run SP38 (the fix), my 4S runs SP35 just tickety boo fine.

My work mods 250c 4s LiPos are slowly draining with out using them .... I have many other lipo mods non c's that never do this ........... Anyone see this issue before ?

I have 2 Non C LiPO's that maintain their voltages for weeks. My one 4S LiPO Color mod drains about 3% over a 24 hour period of not being used.

 

[BillW50]

My 2 POS Paranormals are barely half as consistent as my 1 4S custom LiPO. And that's after the POS's have crossed the border twice to Ohio. They run SP38 (the fix), my 4S runs SP35 just tickety boo fine.

Wow! I also have two Paranormal 250C running SS316L dual coils at SP33 that are solid with TC.

I have 2 Non C LiPO's that maintain their voltages for weeks. My one 4S LiPO Color mod drains about 3% over a 24 hour period of not being used.

I have DNAs that have been sitting for over 2 years with batteries. About every 6 months I press the fire button to wake them up and the battery voltages are just fine. I have had DNAs that drain just sitting there and it always has been the Battery Management IC that had failed. But then I remove the batteries and fix them.

 

[Steamer861]

I didn't know the Crossbow was Svoemesto.

My mistake, it's SVT Swiss Vape Technology

I have 2 Non C LiPO's that maintain their voltages for weeks. My one 4S LiPO Color mod drains about 3% over a 24 hour period of not being used.

Thats good to know! Thanks
I have 2 identical mods, I'm going to charge the batteries fully & switch them.
If the one that is discharging worse now still does I will know for sure it's not the battery

 

[ShamrockPat]

Wow! I also have two Paranormal 250C running SS316L dual coils at SP33 that are solid with TC.

Wow is what I think to this day. 1st trip was to clean out all the gunge in the 510 threading. 2nd trip was supposed to be complete 510 assemblies swapped out. 1 still an utter POS, and the 2nd ... not quite as bad. The 4S LiPO at SP35 does not think there's any issue, and neither does my beater VT133. The Paranormals sit there and piss me off just to look at them. And by the way Bill, apart from these 2 pieces of garbage I do have 2 LV Efusion Duo's (1 ruuning a Lipo), and 2 Triade's.

 

[BillW50]

That Clapton Ni200 coil I put in my K5 was working wonderfully. Although after seeing those BB that were posted, I put the K5 in the Railbox and it was vaping just wonderfully. And I thought these two are meant for one another. Airflow and everything was perfect.

Then after about 20 minutes of vaping this way, things went downhill. The Railbox wouldn't even try and just report Temperature Protect the instant I fire. Then it reported no atomizer. Well the Railbox has a touchy 510 pin, so I fiddled with that and that no atomizer went away. But it still wouldn't throw hardly any power to the coil.

Okay whatever, put the K5 on one of my Triade 250C. Same dang thing. Either Temperature Protect or only firing at 1 watt. Checked cold resistance and it was .068 ohm. That's good, Ni200 26/32 3mmID with 5 wraps. Live ohms when firing was like .14+. That is way too high and the DNA thinks the temperature is too hot. Checked the connections and ran the analyzer. Nothing odd at all. Well I don't have a clue. Even the temperature on the graph doesn't show.

Well ripped that coil out and built another one and everything is working perfectly fine again. I dunno know what was wrong. The only thing I can think of when I built it was that those wraps were really close together. And I worried that a wrap or two might short. But that cold reading of .068 says no.

 

[ShamrockPat]

Hey BillW50, now that my blood pressure is headed back to normal, I also wonder if we're not brothers from different mothers, or something like that. Did ya notice the twosies of my mods like you would've bought.

 

[SlickWilly]

I didn't know the Crossbow was Svoemesto. Don't have one and I'm so happy with the exocet, never even felt any interest in an original or clone. IMHO it's not solely the wire. Now that they've dumbed down TC in favor of Replay, I think it puts more onus on the Mod manufacturer to produce a better product. At a minimum that 510 has to have a solid perfect connection as well as a great ground. Followed by a solid build of course. My 2 POS Paranormals are barely half as consistent as my 1 4S custom LiPO. And that's after the POS's have crossed the border twice to Ohio. They run SP38 (the fix), my 4S runs SP35 just tickety boo fine. I have 2 Non C LiPO's that maintain their voltages for weeks. My one 4S LiPO Color mod drains about 3% over a 24 hour period of not being used.

Agree on 510's, when getting down in the ohms I get with Ni200 I've found, "for me", it's also important to keep the threads clean on both the atty and inside the 510. I have an vintage pair of Snap On channel lock's I ground the teeth off from leaving the jaws smooth, I did that to keep from marring my reloading dies but after starting vaping I also use them to snug my atty's on my mods, since then I don't have the problems of the resistance changing from an atty slightly loosening up.

 

[awsum140]

I have an vintage pair of Snap On channel lock's I ground the teeth off from leaving the jaws smooth, I did that to keep from marring my reloading dies but after starting vaping I also use them to snug my atty's on my mods, since then I don't have the problems of the resistance changing from an atty slightly loosening up.

And I thought I was Mr. Overkill!

I clean the 510 on the mod and on the atomizer with every refill. Hand torque it tight, and I've never really had any varying resistance problems.

 

[BillW50]

Wow! I usually never clean connections or torque things down and I generally run TC with resistances between 0.045 to 1.2 ohms. But I don't worry about a 10F temperature fluctuation either. If it gets really bad like 15F, now I am concern and do something about it. Most of my mods, I never clean the 510 unless juice got in there or something. Nor do I do anything to improve the conductivity. Most of my mods use spring loaded 510s.

Although that Railbox is the exception to my rule. As a coil will often read 2 to 3 times higher than it is. Although it generally does TC just fine and the temperature of the vape doesn't fluctuate. But just don't trust the temperature setting (adjust to taste), otherwise it works fine.

Although after playing with the Railbox today, it sort of ticked me off reading so high. So I put a 510 calibration plug in and I got a resistance of .09. Well that explains most of the problem. I slid it up and down on the rail and that was solid. So the problem is likely in that goofy 510 with that pivot. Hopefully if it bugs me enough I'll actually take it all apart and shine up all of the connections. Most of that 510 is made of brass. The same brass that tarnishes constantly.

I did own a micro-ohm meter with an accuracy of +/- 10 micro-ohm. Getting a nice solid connection in the milliohm range is pretty easy. But when you are talking about in the micro-ohm range, every single connection is super important. Even trying to get one connection better than say less than 50 micro-ohm, might require a half inch bolt with a torque of 250lbs of force.

 

[TrollDragon]

The wicking holes are too large, on the vapeshell I tried many coils, even really large ones & could never get rid of the too saturated wicks, After many attempts & cause I had the Exocet's I just gave up on them Maybe your's will work for You?

This is the boro for the atlantis coils, works pretty good IMO $9.90 Replacement Accessory Set for SXK BB 60W Mod Kit - 5ml / POM at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The Exocet & Insider (clones) both instock at this Canadian site $20 each HARDWARE NEW ARRIVAL

If your like Me not being able to see the screen & the Boro is a Piss off I found this panel for a decent price, it's from the guy in the link I posted CCV. I found it on a Canadian site, BILLET BOX REV4 PANELS BY BB VAPES BRVND X CANADIAN CUSTOM VAPES - CLEAR
It's nothing fancy, but I can see the screen & juice level, it didn't cost too much

These 2 I spent a little more.
The Ohm man DT's came from here Ohman Stuff
The stab wood panels came from here https://www.koncio-mods.com out of stock now but only $130 USD each, I also got Titanium Buttons from the same guy, you cant see them in the Pics but there nice best deal I could find after months of searching

Good Luck Going Down the Rabbit Hole

Awesome, thanks for the links and my BB is coming from that store (Albert's) with clear panels.

I'll give the SXK bridge a run and see how it makes out, there will be a few other bridges brought in for sure. The stabs are nice panels but out of my price range.

 

[SlickWilly]

My builds run right around .028, it doesn't take much to throw it off and effect temps. Again, "for me" cleanliness and solid connections are the only way to keep from having to constantly bump my temps (420-440F) up or down because the ohms shifted for one reason or another.

 

[dwcraig1]

@BillW50, Not sure on Tobeco K5's but generally K5's have a slightly shorter 510 than average......just something to keep in mind.

 

[BillW50]

Why are you building way down there SlickWilly?

 

[BillW50]

Wow really dwcraig1? Oh that would be easy to check. Oh I am looking at it and it does look very short. Calibers says 4mm. Wow, that is the shortest 510 I ever seen. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[SlickWilly]

@BillW50, Not sure on Tobeco K5's but generally K5's have a slightly shorter 510 than average......just something to keep in mind.

Yeah, I adjust the 510 screw heights on my atty's by adding a ring of wire under them to make them stick out just a tad more, tighter connection.

Why are you building way down there SlickWilly?

It's just where the ohms fall, they are dual coil Ni200, six wrap spaced coils about 2.8mm ID with rayon run in V1 + V2 Mizers. I've tried most other TC wires and I don't care for any of them, they all change the flavor from what I get from Ni200. I'm comfortable with them, been using the same setup for a long time. I do like the one coil setup in the Merlins with that Ni200 clapton that about doubles the ohms but the draw in the Merlins is too tight for me.

 

[dwcraig1]

I used NI200 during the DNA40 days, don't miss it.
SS3xxx and Ni are for folks like like a challenge......just my opinion of coarse.

 

[dwcraig1]

Yeah, I adjust the 510 screw heights on my atty's by adding a ring of wire under them to make them stick out just a tad more, tighter connection.

A couple of days ago I was going to make a shim (washer) from an aluminum pie pan for material but didn't get around to it.
I thought about a wire ring instead, I guess that would be a bunch easier.