Running this over in my head I come back that squonking may not be the answer, my problem may lay in my wicking. Be it a tank or bottom feeder juice hits the tails and feeds the coil, if I can drip onto the coil and get great flavor how will bottom feeding help when the juice still has to feed via the tails to the coil? In an attempt to gain better flow I laid the cut ends of the tails on top of the juice wells in the Merlin, if I knock the thing over and the tails move off that well it's going to flood, can't get any better exposure to the tails than that so I come back to how is bottom feeding going to help? Maybe only dripping will give me that same flavor.
Than again, my problem may not be the wicking, it may be the in "my" coils or the clapton wire I'm using, or the fact I use very high VG ratio, or it may just be the nature of the beast.
Juice flows to the inside of the coil, heat the wire and it'd boiling the juice (majority of it) that's on and in the wick inside the coil, any juice on the outside of the coil will quickly vaporize and the outside of the wire, well that temp (being dry wire now) will spike compared to the inside temp, were do we see cruding form? On the outside of the coil, never on the inside where it remains wet.
I have a couple old drippers, I may dig one out and play with it a bit, it would be an interesting experiment to see how long it take for the same coil I use in a tank takes to crud in a dripper where the outside of the coil will be exposed to more juice.
Than again, my problem may not be the wicking, it may be the in "my" coils or the clapton wire I'm using, or the fact I use very high VG ratio, or it may just be the nature of the beast.
Juice flows to the inside of the coil, heat the wire and it'd boiling the juice (majority of it) that's on and in the wick inside the coil, any juice on the outside of the coil will quickly vaporize and the outside of the wire, well that temp (being dry wire now) will spike compared to the inside temp, were do we see cruding form? On the outside of the coil, never on the inside where it remains wet.
I have a couple old drippers, I may dig one out and play with it a bit, it would be an interesting experiment to see how long it take for the same coil I use in a tank takes to crud in a dripper where the outside of the coil will be exposed to more juice.
Say SlickWilly, I don't think any wicking method is going to beat dripping right on the coil. Even with the best wicking, gravity still isn't going to get it that wet.
There is one BF dripper though that I meant to buy, but forgot. That one (Vandy Vape Pulse X BF RDA) when you squonk, it has faucets that pours juice right over the top of the coils.
There is one BF dripper though that I meant to buy, but forgot. That one (Vandy Vape Pulse X BF RDA) when you squonk, it has faucets that pours juice right over the top of the coils.
There isn't a Vandy Vape tank or RDA that is fit to use IMHO 
, I thought it was just me but there are many that concur...
, I thought it was just me but there are many that concur...
I have long thought that a micro Archimedes screw with a micro motor that is speed controlled by the wattage level, or temp, a dial, or whatever, would be a neat solution.
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I have long thought that a micro Archimedes screw with a micro motor that is speed controlled by the wattage level, or temp, a dial, or whatever, would be a neat solution.
There ya go! Something to keep the coil wet from all sides at all times, that's what I was kind of leaning to.
I get daily email notice for deals of the day from bestbuy, rarely but sometimes there's something I can use, these look like they might be handy for all my charge cables! https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-cord-keeper-3-pack-pink-blue-green/5961201.p?skuId=5961201 $3
In another group we've been talking about a piezo pump with an atomising nozzle for years......I have long thought that a micro Archimedes screw with a micro motor that is speed controlled by the wattage level, or temp, a dial, or whatever, would be a neat solution.
A BF'er Pump would have to be able to suck the excess liquid back down.
I have seen a few but this is the main flaw with the one's available now
IMO to make a better BF'er System, The juice would have to come out on top of the coil (all ready done on several RSA's) To take it one step further It would need to dispense a measured amount each squonk & be able to draw back any extra
It would take a massive feat of engineering to make a BF'er as easy to use as a Tank!
I have seen a few but this is the main flaw with the one's available now
IMO to make a better BF'er System, The juice would have to come out on top of the coil (all ready done on several RSA's)
To take it one step further It would need to dispense a measured amount each squonk & be able to draw back any extra It would take a massive feat of engineering to make a BF'er as easy to use as a Tank!
Hey Bill, I've been thinking about your itching problem. I have been bothered, occasionally, with itches, too. I use a skin cream, Cera V, and it works like a charm. A little goes a long way. I know one guy telling another to use skin cream is a little weird, but offer it just in case you haven't thought of dry skin being the problem.
One thing I've found, if I pull the tank off exposing the deck, fire the mod and get the coil hot, I can clean a lot of gunk off the coils with q-tips. Sometimes slivers will come off, pieces of a crud coating on the top of the wire, a few gentle wipes and the majority of the crud will come off, the flavor and vapor comes back and I can extend the life of the builds. I've also noticed the higher the VG ratio the easier the crud comes off, almost as if the VG acts as a lubricant or barrier between the wire and crud layer. That makes me think the thicker VG is also coating the wire better, not boiling off as fast, may be way off base but that's my assumption/s.
Thanks I'll check into it. I've tried about 6 different ones including one by prescription only kind.
I kinda do the same here SlickWilly. Although I get the coil hot (like nickel wire at 600°F) and then stick it under cold running water. And I use a soft brush too and it usually comes off really well. I usually vape 70VG, so I don't know more or less VG helps when cleaning, but nickel wire cleans off very easy compared to other wire types. It is like nothing sticks to it.
I'll admit to "cheating" once in a while if I'm in a rush. I have a round brush set that is a hang over from my car painting days. A really nice selection of moderately stiff sizes that do a good job of removing the "crusties". I still say it's just as easy to re-coil than do the dry burn/clean routine. Nothing beats a totally fresh build!
Okay everyone knows about the sale at Gas City Vapes, right? Everything is 15% off today. So what is so special? They carry those SXK BILLET BOX mods and accessories. And yes, they ship to Canada. In fact, they are in Canada.
Yes a week ago I did order one. It's not here yet, but maybe tomorrow. And yes, thanks to the sale today, I bought a second BB. Although I have some questions about accessories.
Now I bought a SXK Billet Box Exocet RBA. And the stock tank won't fit it right? I'll need the SXK Billet Box Black Boro Tank correct?
Yes a week ago I did order one. It's not here yet, but maybe tomorrow. And yes, thanks to the sale today, I bought a second BB. Although I have some questions about accessories.
Now I bought a SXK Billet Box Exocet RBA. And the stock tank won't fit it right? I'll need the SXK Billet Box Black Boro Tank correct?
One more cream to, maybe, give a try, Bill. Aquaphor is another that works really well on irritated, itching, skin. The only problem is it's more like axle or bear grease, but that does have the advantage of "shielding" the area somewhat.
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