Evolv-ing Thread

[dwcraig1]

So I shortened the tube, left it just a fuzz longer, box slips in just fine and rba worked just fine. But then I removed it to put the other one back in and the tube didn't spin while removing the key. I am finding wetness on the back side of the Boro box, I figure it's originating from the air intake of the rba.

 

[dwcraig1]

It seems that I'm going to need a bigger desk.

 

[BillW50]

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[mikepetro]

 

[mikepetro]

 

[dwcraig1]

 

[dwcraig1]

Hellfire Mods (The Attysmith) - "Exocet" RBA For Billet Box Rev 4

So I seem to have no problem spending $200 - $400 for a mod or $150 for a Taifun GT4 but this really surprises me.

This place has the SXK stuff in stock but they are in Canada: It appears that this place only ships to Canada, not sure though.
Digital Imports

 

[gnees]

 

[ShamrockPat]

dwcraig1 I've bought from Digital Imports (Reuleaux DNA200), but it'd be cheaper from China. Can't find one (exocet) over there?

 

[Steamer861]

dwcraig1 I've bought from Digital Imports (Reuleaux DNA200), but it'd be cheaper from China. Can't find one (exocet) over there?

I to have bought from Digital Imports before, the Exocet is available on China sites Search "SXK BB" on 3F
No one has the DIY coil tool TBH I never seen the need for this tool, you can dry burn on another mod/Tab

 

[BillW50]

Hellfire Mods (The Attysmith) - "Exocet" RBA For Billet Box Rev 4 So I seem to have no problem spending $200 - $400 for a mod or $150 for a Taifun GT4 but this really surprises me.

OMG! That's 10 times more than a SXK clone. Too rich for my blood!

This place has the SXK stuff in stock but they are in Canada: It appears that this place only ships to Canada, not sure though.
Digital Imports

Wow they even have a DIY Coil Tool Kit for Billet Box by SXK.

dwcraig1 I've bought from Digital Imports (Reuleaux DNA200), but it'd be cheaper from China. Can't find one (exocet) over there?

The only place I found that sells BB stuff here is Billet Box Vapor and that's all.

No one has the DIY coil tool

Digital Imports does. Also Atmistique sells their 510 Bridge.

TBH I never seen the need for this tool, you can dry burn on another mod/Tab

You need a mod that can accept a 8mm long 510. Nuts with that idea. If you can get a mod to work, it just catches on a thread or two and really stresses your 510 spring. So I use my DIY Coil Tool Kit all of the time. Although Atmistique calls theirs a 510 Bridge. I like that term better than a DIY Coil Tool Kit.

 

[dwcraig1]

OMG! You need a mod that can accept a 8mm long 510. Nuts with that idea. If you can get a mod to work, it just catches on a thread or two and really stresses your 510 spring. So I use my DIY Coil Tool Kit all of the time. Although Atmistique calls theirs a 510 Bridge. I like that term better than a DIY Coil Tool Kit.

So I'm looking at this and totally not understanding it....then I have my DUH moment. I hadn't realized till now that the threads on the Kanger RBA were 510 threads and can be threaded into a 510 socket (extra big DUH for me)

 

[BillW50]

Most of the other rebuildables like the Exocet are also 510 threaded.

 

[BillW50]

I have no ideas as to how to keep the chimney from spinning when removing the key other than thicker/? o-rings.

The thing about the SXK RBA setup is that undersized OD chimney. If only they made it a little thicker. I have a feeling that Atmistique's isn't any better as SXK probably just copied 1:1 from Atmistique.

What worked for me was if the chimney spins with the key, screw the key back in again and then try it again. It seems like 1 out of 3 times it will stay. PITA when you are swapping tanks all of the time.

All of the other bridges there isn't a problem. It is only that one.

The glass scares me every time I move it.

Something like that should scare me, but somehow I don't pay attention to it and I man handle it without problems so far.

I am finding wetness on the back side of the Boro box, I figure it's originating from the air intake of the RBA.

Wayneo mentioned...

If the back of your boro is wet it's probably coming from the top (pull out your drip tip and dry with a q-tip) or maybe that o-ring on the key.

I was using q-tips until my trash can was full of them. Now I just pop the drip tip off and have a folded paper towel and tip the BB upside down on top of it for a second or two.

They also have those hybrid drip tips that instead of a 510 fitting, the bottom has the key built in. I wonder if those doesn't build up e-liquid? Also I hear that the BBV and SXK key threads are different. I wonder if this is still true or not? If they still are, most of those would only fit the BBV boxes then.

 

[ShamrockPat]

I was using q-tips until my trash can was full of them. Now I just pop the drip tip off and have a folded paper towel and tip the BB upside down on top of it for a second or two.

In the beginning I figured it could only be leaking from the top or the bottom. It became second nature fo me to always lay it button side down but on an angle so liquid would pool in the crease of the frame (which it never did). Then before using I'd remove the boro to check the back of it, and it would be wet. For me, it had to be from top. Now I use a quarter to snug up that key pretty tight. No more leaks for me (knock wood)

 

[dwcraig1]

@Wayneo , interesting timing on your post, while you were typing I was examining mine while I had it apart. I checked the fitment of the key and it's o-ring and see no way it would leak there. Even if it were to leak the condensation that forms under the drip tip that liquid should just go back down to the tails. The o-ring in the top of the Boro feels good against the tube as well. My conclusion was it was from the bottom from the air intake as I had previously thought. If the o-ring at the top of the Boro were to leak liquid it should also leak air resulting in the chamber flooding and really leaking out the intake.
Now though since you mentioned that yours no longer leaks by making the key tighter it appears that I'm back to square one.

 

[dwcraig1]

Just in case no one noticed that little collar that screws onto the Kanger RBA 510 threads only goes on one way.
What I was doing was re setting up my 2nd Boro box from yesterday. I pulled out the RBA and installed it into my Subtank's base to make it non spaced and check for shorts/hot spots.
The tube on my first one didn't spin upon removal of the key this time.

 

[BillW50]

I only had a problem with leaking and condensation is when my wicking wasn't tight enough. I had no problems until I slide the glass open to fill and the tank lost vacuum and then it leaked. Rewicked and everything has been bone dry ever since. I learned right away to tighten the key snug, because when I didn't, the resistance would jump around. I tried using coins like a quarter, but I think the end of tweeters works much better for me.

 

[BillW50]

Now though since you mentioned that yours no longer leaks by making the key tighter it appears that I'm back to square one.

I think that chimney is too loose and it leaks. I quit using them for this reason. I think you are always going to have problems with that chimney. Was it ok when using OCC heads? That Kanger Bridge is fine for me with those OCC heads. No leaks whatsoever. Same with the Exocet RTA.

Just in case no one noticed that little collar that screws onto the Kanger RBA 510 threads only goes on one way.

Yes I too noticed this. It is probably because the threads doesn't go all the way through.