Explosion at my local shop

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mauricem00

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Perfectly correct, and thank you.
well if someone is going to try to build a mod powerful enough to require multiple MOSFETS then we need to give them as much information as possible. at those current levels even a dual battery mod would stress the batteries and firing for more than a few seconds would overheat the batteries. a single ILRB 3036 can easily handle 50 amps with 3.5 gate to source voltage with only a 0.1 volt drain to source drop. it would have to be heat sinked to the case but thats still over 180 watts with parallel batteries IRLB3036PBF International Rectifier, IRLB3036PBF Datasheet - Page 3
 
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suprtrkr

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well if someone is going to try to build a mod powerful enough to require multiple MOSFETS then we need to give them as much information as possible. at those current levels even a dual battery mod would stress the batteries and firing for more than a few seconds would overheat the batteries. a single ILRB 3036 can easily handle 50 amps with 3.5 gate to source voltage with only a 0.1 volt drain to source drop. it would have to be heat sinked to the case but thats still over 180 watts with parallel batteries IRLB3036PBF International Rectifier, IRLB3036PBF Datasheet - Page 3
True. But then, I wasn't trying to help somebody build such a mod. I was trying to explain what a MOSFET is, and why they are used, and how they might be configured :) Again, though, you're perfectly correct. Building a mod that powerful is not a game for people who don't understand what they're doing. I wouldn't attempt it myself without first publishing a schematic over in the modders forum and asking for opinion of those wiser than myself.
 

Ryedan

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Any time. Lesson #2: The two types are N-channel and P-channel. They differ in the way the silicon wafer is laid up and it is not important for you to understand this immediately. N-chan is "on" when the gate is high (+voltage) and off when the gate is low (0 or -voltage depending on the circuit.) P-chan works the other way. N-Chan is for "low side switching," that is the MOSFET is placed between the atomizer connection and battery return. P-Chan is for "high side switching," meaning the MOSFET is placed between battery power and the atomizer. P-Chan MOSFETs-- all P-chan transistors of any type-- require a tiny "maintenance current" to keep them turned off because the gate has to be high to stop the source-drain current. In mod work, and in many other types of circuits, to prevent gate voltage from "floating" and thus turning on accidentally, a moderately high value resistor-- 15kΩ or thereabouts-- is placed between two of the legs of the MOSFET to "pull" the gate voltage, making sure the source-drain path stays in the off state. A N-Chan uses a "pulldown" resistor. A P-Chan uses a "pullup" resistor. They are the same resistor, and doing the same job. The name changes depending on which direction it is pulling gate voltage. If you want a deeper dive in the weeds-- doubtful :) -- talk to @Mooch or one of our other EEs, or head over into the Modder's Forum. I'm just a tyro at this, lol.

Great information, very easy to understand and much appreciated suprtrkr. Thank you !!
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WattWick

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I get the reliability thing, but is it so hard to be without your vape for a few hours (most will have a spare mod at home) in the unlikely event that it goes south?

For me it's not so much about minute-to-minute reliability. It's more about reliability in the sense of being "built to last". One could say a mech is the bare minimum level of technology required to get a great vape. Their very nature is altogether non-technological. Sufficently so to be (potentially) near indestructible. While I consider myself a techie, I also have a fond appreciation for things on a technological level of Good Enough - that keeps on working ad infinitum.
 

Racehorse

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Sooo... put a loaded weapon in my mouth. Got it.

I still don't get it but I think my first guess may have been right. At my age I'm way past needed to be accepted as cool. Anyway, to each their own and your mileage may vary and all that stuff.

I have no idea why you would "trust" a cheap (disposable) regulated PVs with "clone" chips and a LiPo pack. :) (have you ever taken apart one of those mods, the protection around the LiPo pack is like aluminum foil. ) So, Drop the mod a few times.....Not real hard to get a chip malfunction, shorting, frying boards, or wire crosses on a cheapo chinese regulated. Sometimes they don't cut-off properly when charging, etc. cloudpor mini, for instance, regulated mod, had problems.

Here's the deal: anybody who wants to just vape cluelessly should stick with gas station cigalikes. :) Otherwise, one must be mindful and practice safety.


One reason I liked mechanicals is that I felt "safer" being in charge....taking my own readings, inspecting my batteries, etc. I was using REOs. REOs are mechanical, very safe, spring drops on a short and all is well. :) It has nothing to do with being cool, some people just like the vape.
 
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K_Tech

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I apologize for not reading through all 11 pages - I'm in a hurry!

The Tuglife is a parallel box mod, and from a quick search:

Proper use of the Tuglife box mod:
1. Remove magnetized back door
2. Insert 18650 batteries positive side up (meaning, plus signs sit upwards towards the 510 connection and minus signs sit downwards towards the bottom of the box mod. See photo below)
3. Replace magnetized back door
Shall the batteries be placed in the mod incorrectly, this will result in immediate sparks and venting of the batteries, which will also void the Flawless Replacement Warranty.
 

Ryedan

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I apologize for not reading through all 11 pages - I'm in a hurry!

The Tuglife is a parallel box mod, and from a quick search:

Good point K_Tech :)

But that would only be a problem when you put the second battery in the mod with one reversed. Instant short of both batts. This incident happened after one battery was inserted.

No one knows what really went wrong.
 
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