Fast help please

[HecticEnergy]

I read each post and now I am confused - not an uncommon situation. You indicate "coils made with less resistant wire heats slower..... and - generally requires more power to get it to heat up..."

The laws I followed tell me that a 1.0 OHM COIL will heat FASTER and a 2.2 Ohm COIL will heat slower IF the same voltage is applied. Wire size aside - less resistance means faster heating and greater resistance equates to slower heating.

Perhaps someone can explain HOW HecticEnergy indication that the lower resistance will heat "slower" than a high resistance coil?? I'm once again "confised". To me it goes against the laws of physics.

Senile Old Man Donnie

Hmmm... I'm having a hard time thinking of something to relate this to...

I explained it to my wife (who knows nothing about electronics) and she says "it makes sense because the fatter wire has more metal to heat up." Which was a very good thought
Most of what I said was just based off my experience. With the same resistance coils the and the same voltage applied the amp pull and wattage will be the same. However 24ga takes forever to heat up compared to 28ga.
Let me know if that doesn't clear things up any more


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[drunkenbatman]

The laws I followed tell me that a 1.0 OHM COIL will heat FASTER and a 2.2 Ohm COIL will heat slower IF the same voltage is applied. Wire size aside - less resistance means faster heating and greater resistance equates to slower heating.

Hey mate! I promise we're all following the same laws, or at least that's my story until the statute of limitations kicks in. Apologies for the length, this could do with a real edit. As a reminder, here's what HecticEnergy said:

"Coils made with less resistant wire heats slower..... and - generally requires more power to get it to heat up..."

You're right that a 1 Ohm coil will heat up faster than a 2.2. Ohm coil, you're missing that it would take much less thinner wire to make a 2.2 Ohm coil than you'd need if you used thicker wire, because the thicker wire passes current better.

The way an ecig works is similar to an incadescent light bulb... you create a circuit (your house wiring), and plug the light bulb into it. The wiring in the house is very non-resistant, so the electricity flows through it easily with no power loss. However, inside the lightbulb is a filmament which is very resistant to passing electrity through itself. While some electrity makes it through, a bunch gets turned into heat/light... and a normal house current is 120V.

Our ecigs work the same way, except they are 3.7-4.2V. Our coils are made using kanthal (usually) which is made of iron, chromium and aluminum and is very resistant to electricity passing through it. Because kanthal has such a high resistivity, any current going through it is going to generate some heat, even at a low Ohm.

When we use it to complete a circuit with the battery with a 1Ohm or 2.2Ohm coil, current tries to go through it. The lower the Ohms (less resistivity), the more current will be able to go through it and drawn from the battery (amperage). If you use a thicker kanthal wire, it might take 4 inches wrapped into a coil to get to 2.2 Ohm, as opposed to 2 inches for a very thin wire, as there's more volume of kanthal for the electrons to flow through so you need more of it. If you use a thinner wire at the same Ohm, you get the same current flowing through fewer atoms, so it heats up much faster.

Hopefully that makes sense. FYI, normally I'd just link you here and answer any questions, but I get why what you're asking is confusing.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/366112-ohms-law-explained-layman-terms.html

*gives the horns*

 

[Don Robertson]

....... Making 'fun' of myself!

THANKS GUYS! See ...... Senile Old Man Donnie ignored the obvious and took off running towards the wall. He (me) didn't stop until he hit the darn wall and actually plugged in the numbers. It's embarrassing ...... and it ticks me off to question that I am familiar with --- but forget. When shown again it all comes back. Now IF it sticks things will be 'OK'!

THANKS AGAIN for the kick-start! It is appreciated A LOT.

Senile Old Man Donnie

 

[HecticEnergy]

maybe I said it, maybe I didnt but basically more resistance means more friction. more resistance per inch means more friction per inch, thus more heat per inch. I did a video to kinda show what happens with two equal coils (1.52ohms +-.1 ohms) - one built with 28ga and one built with 24 ga (... 17wraps around 1/8 drill bit.. now THAT is a coil.. LOL) I'll post a link when I get the video up on youtube if you want to see the demo.

 

[Caprilli]

Hi Guys,

I posted this elsewhere but so far I had no reply. I got a mini Nautilus a few days ago with a T-tank. It worked really well until I re-filled the tank and now it simply does not fire. I took everything apart, cleaned it, refilled it, primed it, let it it sit and it just appears dead. Yes, the batteries are working

I have not tried a new coil since it has been vaped on less than a tank and the coil was fine before the re-fill. What am I doing wrong?

 

[HecticEnergy]

I would suspect either a coil issue - some how it picked up a short or open connection (incomplete circuit). either that or the center post on one of the tanks is longer than the other and forced down the 510 pin on the mod so the other one can no longer make contact with it. shouldnt be an issue with a spring loaded 510, cant remember if your mod has that or not..

 

[Caprilli]

OK I'll try a new coils since my MVP 20 arrived just now which has a spring loaded 510. This said, all worked well yesterday and the issue only occured after me re-filling the tank. I will report back after changing the coil.

 

[Caprilli]

Update........... it was the coil but what would have killed this coil, that did not kill any of my other tanks coils?

 

[HecticEnergy]

The only thing I can think that changing the liquid would do is maybe unseat your coil (not screwed in all the way after separating the top and bottom sections of the tank). But since you took it completely apart and reassembled, I'm guessing that's not the case.

 

[HecticEnergy]

Update........... it was the coil but what would have killed this coil, that did not kill any of my other tanks coils?

Could be lots of things.. my guess is just shotty work man ship on that coil. Mass produced heads some times have those kinds of problems.

 

[Caprilli]

Let's hope so as I am a wee bit disappointed about the build quality so far with the Nautilus and do not (yet) see the difference that justyfies the hype over it in comparison to the Kanger Aerotank........ maybe I am just too much of a noob to know the difference. It is vaping away on the MVP right now though and I shall give it a few days to decide if it will stay in my house or not

 

[HecticEnergy]

Let's hope so as I am a wee bit disappointed about the build quality so far with the Nautilus and do not (yet) see the difference that justyfies the hype over it in comparison to the Kanger Aerotank........ maybe I am just too much of a noob to know the difference. It is vaping away on the MVP right now though and I shall give it a few days to decide if it will stay in my house or not

Aero tank and Nautilus are in the same class - some prefer one over the other. I think the MOW tank is just a redesigned Aero. Either way you should get a great vape
The Nautilus really shines with the BVC coils at higher wattages - try it out on the MVP 20w and see what you think (glad you finally were able to get one!)

 

[Caprilli]

Yes and I am waiting for my taste buds to return so I can actually detect more of a difference than just more and warmer vape
I do believe you though that both the Delta 19 and the Nautilus where made for more wattage than my ego batteries had on offer. The Aerotank is great for the ego's and when I had some taste, I really enjoyed the vape on the Emow Mega kit.

The Aerotank appears easier to manage right now. It comes apart and goes back together smoothly and all parts unscrew easily whilst I feel a little cheated with the Nautilus as all websites clearly state that it is made from all stainless steel and it certainly is not. The middle section and the top looks more like something chromed and feels like it too. The vape is great though.

 

[edyle]

Hi Guys,

I posted this elsewhere but so far I had no reply. I got a mini Nautilus a few days ago with a T-tank. It worked really well until I re-filled the tank and now it simply does not fire. I took everything apart, cleaned it, refilled it, primed it, let it it sit and it just appears dead. Yes, the batteries are working

I have not tried a new coil since it has been vaped on less than a tank and the coil was fine before the re-fill. What am I doing wrong?

Did you take the tank off the mod in order to refill?

You'll get better luck by not interfering with the 510 thread connection unnecessarily.

 

[drunkenbatman]

1. Aspire is notorious for their quality control issues with their coils. It's probably solvable, but it probably isn't worth solving -- it could be as simple as the coil popping or getting twisted and shorting when screwed in. People will get a pack of them and have 3 be duds, others will get a pack and they're all fine. I generally don't recommend them, but the BDCs are fine for what they are.

2. I can't recommend using the BVCs coils right now, they aren't really safe. Aspire made the decision to use a fiberglass/ceramic fiber for the coil, a known source of tumors, lung irritation and permanent lung damage over time. After pressure they've said they'll switch to cotton, but they haven't given an ETA as to when. It's discussed thoroughly in this thread for you to make up your own mind:

www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gen...ficial-statement-atlantis-coils-material.html

 

[Caprilli]

Did you take the tank off the mod in order to refill?

You'll get better luck by not interfering with the 510 thread connection unnecessarily.

How would you fill it without taking it off as I need to unscrew the base in order to be able to fill it?

 

[Caprilli]

1. Aspire is notorious for their quality control issues with their coils. It's probably solvable, but it probably isn't worth solving -- it could be as simple as the coil popping or getting twisted and shorting when screwed in. People will get a pack of them and have 3 be duds, others will get a pack and they're all fine. I generally don't recommend them, but the BDCs are fine for what they are.

2. I can't recommend using the BVCs coils right now, they aren't really safe. Aspire made the decision to use a fiberglass/ceramic fiber for the coil, a known source of tumors, lung irritation and permanent lung damage over time. After pressure they've said they'll switch to cotton, but they haven't given an ETA as to when. It's discussed thoroughly in this thread for you to make up your own mind:

www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gen...ficial-statement-atlantis-coils-material.html

Yes I read about the coils and was not too pleased but even less pleased with how the tank fits together. The Delta 19 and the Aerotanks have a much better build quality. Unfortunately the only ready made cotton wicks available right now are all the new Sub-ohm tanks with the Kanger offering a 1.1 ohm coil as the highest resistance and I still really, really do not want to start making my own coils, if ever. I just hope that there will be more health conscious people out there demanding glue free, food-grade stainless steel and glass tanks with cotton wicks in the future.

 

[drunkenbatman]

Yes I read about the coils and was not too pleased but even less pleased with how the tank fits together. The Delta 19 and the Aerotanks have a much better build quality. Unfortunately the only ready made cotton wicks available right now are all the new Sub-ohm tanks with the Kanger offering a 1.1 ohm coil as the highest resistance and I still really, really do not want to start making my own coils, if ever. I just hope that there will be more health conscious people out there demanding glue free, food-grade stainless steel and glass tanks with cotton wicks in the future.

1. The Kangers (pre sub-tank) are all-silica, which is considered the safest but it has other drawbacks when it comes to vaping especially at high wattages. I'm not a fan of their dual-coils, I think they added complexity for little gain but the version with exposed wicking seemed to work better. Depending on the needs, I recc their single coils still.

2. The BDC coils are a mix of silica and poly-fill. You're pretty much OK, especially as the polyfill is in a circle around the coils and not up against them so it can't get burned up if it runs dry unless a coil isn't where it should be. They are just very, very hit-or-miss due to a combination of the design, Eigate/Aspires QA, and in come cases clones (people always assume it's the clones that are the issue, and it isn't the case). This should have come up when you were turned onto them. You may get a pack and they're all great, and you may get a pack and half are just-ok, and you may get a pack and half are duds.

3. For the Kangers/Aspire, I know a company in the UK that is making pre-made cotton coils (they basically rewick them all for you) for the protanks/aerotanks/etc. You can probably find em via google or I can lookup the link in my notes from when we talked.

 

[Caprilli]

3. For the Kangers/Aspire, I know a company in the UK that is making pre-made cotton coils (they basically rewick them all for you) for the protanks/aerotanks/etc. You can probably find em via google or I can lookup the link in my notes from when we talked.

THAT would be fab! It would certainly carry me over until they finally make cotton coils a standard or at least a choice. I'll see if I can find them on Google and if they do not ship to the USA, I would have plenty of people who could post for me in the UK.

 

[Caprilli]

I guess you mean these? Shop | NatureVape
Outch, that is 10 Bucks a coil!