Fast Tech FOGGER

[graffinfected]

SERIOUSLY?

how am i supposed to build around this thing?

the coil it came with is was no good to begin with.

i tried building another one but mannnnnnnnnnnn, what a mission. the TAIFUN clicks down so you can build comfortably.. how are you guys building these things?

i cant get anything to work.. i want to use it with mesh but i get "OP" on my provari every single time. i always have problems with rba's buti usually get them to work eventually.. i have been playing with this thing for about two days.. NOTHING..

help please? It looks cool and i want it to work.

 

[ScottP]

Maybe Cjax can help you. He is the only person I know with a V1 actually in his hands.

He is supposed to post some pics of his setup in this thread soon:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...systems/459188-ft-fogger-11.html#post10595855

 

[graffinfected]

yea i saw it.... but still no pics up... i was hoping someone else would have a few pictures up.

 

[ScottP]

Maybe you can PM Cjax and ask for details. In the meantime the only thing I can suggest is to cut the leads longer and wrap them around the screws with the coil out of the way, then pull the leads tighter around the screws until the coil drops into place.

 

[lmp9002002]

Glad i found this thread, i'm hoping it will eventually turn into a Fogger build thread!
Anyway, i've had mine for a few days, and have been tinkering up a storm with it. Every mesh build i put in it seems to short, and havent gotten anything to give off very impressive VTF (using say, a protank as a baseline. I'm shooting for a build that vapes better than a protank and close to a genny).
A solid 500 mesh wick with silica sleeving (ekowool also works in place of the silica sleeving) seems to work, but nothing impressive. I did a straight 2mm ekowool build and it gave great flavor, but not much in terms of vapor or TH. It wasnt wicking fast enough, which i figured would be the problem. I even decided why the hell not and tried 1/16 stainless cable (because well, it works so darn well in my gennys) even though i figured it would leak (part of me hoped that tightening that top cap down tight enough would constrict the wick enough that it wouldn't) but got nothing but gurgles.
When i build it, i hold the wick in my left hand, and wrap underneath the wick first, from left to right. If you wrap over the top first, the wire doesn't come off in the right position for the posts- the wire needs to come off the top of the wick to go to the post. I haven't yet determined whether going on the inside or outside of the screw is better. i suspect inside could be better because sometimes my last wrap on each side shorts to the post, and wrapping around the screw from the inside out would keep the coil entirely between the screws, yet if you do it the other way you get a bit more room to build and when you tighten the screw it pulls the wire tight. I hope you guys can understand what i'm trying to say here, lol. Anyway, i dont find the lack of a "pop-down" collar like the Taifun GT to be a big deal, i just build the coil on the wick, drop the wick in, loosen the screws to where the heads are just barely above the collar, and use a small screwdriver to bend the wire around the screw, loop it all the way around, pull tight (but not too tight.. i've had that cause a hot leg) and tighten the screw down nice and snug (not too tight.. it hasnt happened yet, but i'm slightly concerned about stripping those tiny screws). Now, that being said, i dont find it any more difficult to build than a protank coil, maybe even a bit easier.
I'm about to pick it up, clean it out, and try a few other builds- my 2 ideas to try next are a looser rolled mesh wick (400, instead of 500) and torch the living crap out of it (i even saw a trick of dropping the mesh wick into water while it's still hot a few times while torching, it seems like that oxidizes it a bit better, so i'll probably do that), and my other idea is 3 pieces of 1mm silica wrapped together (my justification for that one- remember the vivi nova days? well, it always seemed like the 1.8 ohm and 2.4 ohm heads with multiple small wicks seemed to wick better and give off better flavor than the 2.8ohm coil with a single fat wick? I figured why not try applying that to rba's). Gonna try the silica first, as i have some juices i want to try in it that don't seem to taste quite right on mesh. I'll let you guys know how it turns out!

 

[Cjax]

My ears are burning! Haven't had time to do a rebuild or take pics, but hopefully later today or tomorrow I'll throw a micro-coil in it and take pics as I do it. Building this thing is a pain. You have to get the coil and wick inside that tiny cup. and when I tried to do it with mesh it kept messing up and shorting on the mesh even though it was pretty well oxidized. I think the cup being so small made my coil cut into the mesh from trying to get everything nice and tight in there. Straight silica or cotton seem the way to go, for me at least, because you can build the coil, then thread your wick through. Once you get your wick in the coil, there's no need to put it in the small side channels, just S-curl it in front of the channels like the channels in a Kayfun/Russian. The first coil I did was far from perfect so I want to redo it soon, but the vape from it was nothing short of absolutely stellar! And this is coming from a die hard dripper and Reo lover! Keep at it, though. It's a far from perfect atty, but once it's set-up correctly it pretty much rocks, for me at least.

 

[lmp9002002]

Cjax, i'd be highly interested to see pics of your current build, and to see what you mean by s-curling the wicks inside of the notches. Are you using cotton or silica in your current build? What size silica? My silica builds don't seem to be wicking quickly enough.. I prime the coil with a few drops and the first two hits are weak and by the third hit, it's dry.

 

[Cjax]

Just posted pics in the other thread.

 

[ScottP]

Every mesh build i put in it seems to short

If you want to experiment I came up with an idea in another thread that when using SS wicks we are putting the oxidation on the wrong part. Try boiling a small amount of water and dissolving a ton of salt in it. The build the coil without the wick in it. Fire the coil to get it hot then dip the coil in the salt water solution. (Do not keep firing while dipping). My thought here is that this could build a good coating around the coil removing the need to oxidize the wick at all. I also thought about trying sugar water or even just juice on the coils.

I even decided why the hell not and tried 1/16 stainless cable (because well, it works so darn well in my gennys) even though i figured it would leak (part of me hoped that tightening that top cap down tight enough would constrict the wick enough that it wouldn't) but got nothing but gurgles.

Do we know the exact opening size of the wick cutouts? If they are much larger than 1/16th then there will be some gurgling around the wick. Maybe put just a little bit of sleeve around the ends to help block the holes.

Every mesh build i put in it seems to short

As a rule of thumb, I ALWAYS wrap wires around screws so that tightening of the screw pulls the wire closer and holds it tighter. In other words, I start from the left and wrap around the top to the right or if the wire is approaching from the top, start on the right and wrap around the bottom to the left.

 

[lmp9002002]

That saltwater solution on the coil sounds like a good idea.. Is that how people have been getting away with not oxidizing their mesh? I've heard some people saying they don't bother torching the mesh anymore and was curious as to how.
The wick holes seem to be right at the size of the 1/16 cable (i know stainless cable diameters are weird.. so "1/16" diameter isn't exactly 1/16). Basically, the cable fills the holes just about perfectly, i figured it was gurgling just because of how ridiculously fast the stainless rope can wick juice. No big deal, just had to try it to satisfy my curiosity.
I was thinking that same thing, i usually wrap all my other coils (Genny and RDA) in that way, so the screw pulls them tight. But like i said, it seems like the outer wraps short to the post in the Fogger if you do it that way.

Anyway, i finally gave in to all the people who have been saying that microcoils and cotton are the way to go, and well.. WOW! 6-7 wraps of 28ga with cotton seems to be working fantastically well in the Fogger! Granted, it was a MAJOR PITA to get the coil in there (the usual strategy of putting the drill bit in the hole to hold the coil while connecting it doesn't work since the gaps are so small.. I wasn't about to build a coil on a 1/16 drillbit). But i got it in there without messing up the coil TOO badly, and it works great! I'd say it's about on par with my best genny builds.. But the inherent beauty of the Fogger is that it can be laid down with no leaks! Something CJAX mentioned in the other thread was to trim the upper insulator to keep it from touching the coil, as well as the lower insulator that partially blocks the airhole, which i went ahead and did too before this build. Airflow is much improved from trimming the lower insulator, although getting the upper insulator back in was a #&@!%, damn near impossible.

 

[lmp9002002]

You can see how well the 1/16 cable fills the gap. Still gurgled though, i'd think that's the fault of the cable. The only way i could see cable working is sleeving the whole way through, with 7x7 instead of 7x19, and wrapping the coil very tight.


My current build, based off of Cjax's advice and the whole cotton-microcoil craze going on. This is the one that was a pain to get installed but man does it vape!

 

[ScottP]

That saltwater solution on the coil sounds like a good idea.. Is that how people have been getting away with not oxidizing their mesh? I've heard some people saying they don't bother torching the mesh anymore and was curious as to how.

I think a lot of them use the "rolling paper" method. They wrap the wick with cigarette rolling paper, then coil it and then burn off the paper. This is still in a sense putting the barrier on the wick. As far as I know I am the only one thinking of trying to put the oxidation on the coil instead. Unfortunately, I don't have my Fogger yet to try it.

You can see how well the 1/16 cable fills the gap. Still gurgled though, i'd think that's the fault of the cable. The only way i could see cable working is sleeving the whole way through, with 7x7 instead of 7x19, and wrapping the coil very tight.

Actually my suggestion is the opposite of what you tried. IF my oxidizing the coil trick works, you would only put a sleeve or cotton wrap on the two ends to help block the holes. The oxidized coil would be on bare rope.

Nice looking coils by the way.

 

[camaro73]

I have had my Fogger for a few days now. I have not really figured it out yet. I tried the original set up and have done 2 new coils on it and know matter what, it shorts out. I have been so frustrated with it, I put it up for now.

 

[ScottP]

I have had my Fogger for a few days now. I have not really figured it out yet. I tried the original set up and have done 2 new coils on it and know matter what, it shorts out. I have been so frustrated with it, I put it up for now.

That is more likely an issue with using stainless steel wicks, than an issue with the Fogger. Maybe try using cotton or silica wicks instead. Otherwise you have to find a way to insulate the SS wick from the coil using an oxidation layer, a sleeve, or something.

 

[camaro73]

I tried it with ekowool and it had the same problem.

 

[ScottP]

I tried it with ekowool and it had the same problem.

The only other thing I can think of is maybe the coil is coming into contact with the housing, maybe underneath the coil. Make sure the coil is not touching the bottom of the deck or maybe even put a flat piece of ekowool underneath to make sure. Also make sure the wires wrapped around the screws are not touching the outside walls.

It might help if you could post a pic or two.

 

[camaro73]

Thanks for your help ScottP. I have put it up for now due to frustration but I may get it back out this weekend. I am looking in to Version 2 right now.

 

[Iron]

I got my Fogger yesterday from AKA Vapers. I actually didn't get to try out the stock coil on it because it was 1 ohm, which my Vamo won't fire. I pulled it out and proceeded to make a microcoil. I have to agree that the recessed deck is a SOB to work with. Once I got it installed, I put some cotton wick in it and tried it out. It gurgled and leaked some. I took it out again and added a tiny bit of cotton on both sides where the wick sticks out of the openings to seal it off better. It's vaping like a charm now! I'm not a fan of tanks because of their airy draws and muted flavor. This tank has a tighter, warmer draw and more taste than any other tank I've tried. I still like my Reo better, but I'm definitely gonna be using this for a little variety. Just wish the tank was made of glass.

 

[nelsonm64]

I got my Fogger yesterday from AKA Vapers. I actually didn't get to try out the stock coil on it because it was 1 ohm, which my Vamo won't fire. I pulled it out and proceeded to make a microcoil. I have to agree that the recessed deck is a SOB to work with. Once I got it installed, I put some cotton wick in it and tried it out. It gurgled and leaked some. I took it out again and added a tiny bit of cotton on both sides where the wick sticks out of the openings to seal it off better. It's vaping like a charm now! I'm not a fan of tanks because of their airy draws and muted flavor. This tank has a tighter, warmer draw and more taste than any other tank I've tried. I still like my Reo better, but I'm definitely gonna be using this for a little variety. Just wish the tank was made of glass.

on the chance you don't already know this, version 2 of the fogger has a glass tank.

 

[lmp9002002]

So just a little update- i've now vaped a full tank through this thing of a juice i originally wasnt a big fan of (Gorilla Juice). The cotton-microcoil setup just makes it taste great, makes a nice warm vape, and excellent throat hit! When i opened it up, the cotton looked a bit dark and charred- rinsed everything out, replaced the cotton, threw a new juice in there (Melon-Berry Frost from Ahlusion, another that i thought was OK but wasn't too crazy about) and it's fantastic! Cleaning this thing out to put a different juice in it is even easier than a protank, the capacity is huge, and the vape is great! The V2 with pyrex should be a welcome addition to my collection once they come available, but mainly just for the ability to use some more corrosive juices- i don't really expect the performance or build difficulty to be much different from this one (Except, maybe, hopefully, they fixed that stupid insulator issue).
TL;DR: It's working great and i have no regrets! I've just been rotating between this tank and my Ihybrid lately, havent even felt the need to touch any of my other gennys.