Fogger V2...WOW

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zandersig

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Kayfun Lite plus - InTaste
or
SvoeMesto Kayfun Lite Atomiser - Cloud 9 Vaping
The clone is a clone. Not close to the OEM machining. I have 3 Fogger v2's in rotation. At 1st i really liked it, then out of the blue driving to work, the tank decided to drain out the intake. I have since replaced the o-rings on chimney, no more problems.


Yeah, both those links are out of the USA, I bet shipping cost would be insane!?

I found this one https://www.valenciaclouds.com/shop/svoёmesto-kayfun-lite-plus/#!prettyPhoto but OMG I can't see paying $135 plus shipping... ouch! Plus it's out of stock...
 

zandersig

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zipflint

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I don't mean to step on any toes, but I went from a Fogger V2 to a Taifun GT and Kayfun Lite clones and they ARE much easier to work with.

The thing with the Kayfun/Russin clones (in my limited experience) is that sometimes the juice channels aren't deep enough. You can either drill them out a bit, or just learn to build your wick to compensate for that. Then there's the whistling.... You either live with it, or partially block the air-intake hole with something. Other people have found burrs IN the air intake and that's a problem that I myself would be unable to remedy.

The Taifun GT clones are the same; sometimes the cheap manufacturing and lack of real QC can bite you. For a while, fasttech was selling units with chrome plated brass decks, but have since moved to stainless steel decks.

I would suggest finding the cheapest version of each, give it a whirl, but expect some problems. I wouldn't pay more than $30 for a clone of either the Kayfun OR the Taifun GT. That said, after a lot of tweaking and failed builds, I DO like these just as much as the Fogger.

I hope that helps, and I hope I haven't crossed the line with all my clone-talk. :oops:
 

folkphys

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So, my Fogger has been out of service ever since I hopped aboard the Kayfun train two months ago. The old girl is just too large, heavy and wick-persnickety. But then, on a lark, I decided to order some xc-116 braided ceramic fiber wick which arrived this weekend. You see, in my old gennies I loved the taste and wicking of a porous (rigid) ceramic wick, so I thought if perhaps this braided fiber stuff is taste-tolerable in these bottom-coil tank style deals, then it could serve as a useful alternative to cotton on vacations, business trips, or the occasional bought of extended laziness where re-wicking every couple of days or upon every juice change might become too inconvenient.

Long story foreshortened: Out of retirement came the Fogger, in went a short piece of xc-116 with 6 wraps of twisted 30g Kanthal at 0.8 ohms, and although I think I'm only just breaking it in yet, it looks to be a winner. It is wicking fairly well, which is quite a victory considering my former cotton builds functioned nominally only 40% of the time. and it tastes pretty darn good, though somewhat harsher than cotton, which is part of what makes me think it still has to break in a bit more. Of course I could be tasting ceramic dust/fibers which may very well be slow-killing me so I'll keep an eye on that. But all things considered I am pleasantly surprised and even somewhat impressed. Yes, this stuff is quite expensive especially compared to even the most froo-froo of organic Cotton balls, but if a single wick can perform for months on end with only the occasional dry-burn to clean and refresh it and still taste pretty darn good throughout, I'm sold.

I don't think I'll be using it all the time in every one of my RTA's, but surely at least one for travel and anytime I want to leave my wick and coil toolkit at home.

As a side note, I have also put some xc-116 into my KFL (not the R91 yet, I am still to skeptical to risk that level of purchase-price-to-failure disappointment), and it works well too.
 

chaze

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I have 2 different Kayfun clones (FT and Black edition) and both have restricted airflow compared to the Fogger. Don't be fooled by the airflow control feature. Even with the control wide open (screw removed), it's a tight draw. The Kayfun is more about flavor than vapor.
I like a nice even balance. The Russian has that balance, but it leaked in my pocket while at work. So the Fogger remains my daily.
I'm hoping they will make an aluminum/pmma version someday.
 

zandersig

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What about this one? Kayfun Lite with Clear Tank Full Logo The Best There Is No Thread Leak | eBay


This guy says that the air flow screw is useless? I like to be able to change the air flow but he says that the plus model AFC only makes it harder to get air in?


Thanks for all the info people but take a look at the one on ebay (link up above) and tell me what you think? I also found one on gotvapes but it doesn't have a window tube so I can't see how much juice is left (link: KayFun Lite PLUS RBA 4ml Tank with Adjustable Air Flow - STNLS [gv-KayFunLitePLUS-STNLS] - $31.46 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more). But it's on sale for $31 dollars.

Also how much of a weight difference is there between the Kayfun lite and the Fogger?
 

crss

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    I already saw the ebay sale. true clone = logo'd. It is still a clone. The bottom link, is more a clone of the R91 since the airflow adjustment is on the side of the base. I have an ehpro clone of the lite + air flow on the side. It does work, but i drilled out the air intake. The solid 22 tank section is nice, juice wont crack the plastic section. The fogger & kayfun weight difference, let me pick one of each up... close. The fogger has a glass tank section, no fear of fluid ruining the tank. Kayfuns, need to be ss tanks todo the same, so it would weigh more. There is also the $12.93 Rocket Rebuildable Atomizer Kit (5mL) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping 13 bux. Same style as the kayfuns, cheaper. Just get the nicest clone to try & go from there. I saw the taifun gt clone suggested, it is also a very nice device. There is also the squape, 23mm device holds 5ml fluid. What are you putting the RBA on? I have OCD, so i can not put a 23mm rba on a 22mm mod. Some clear tanks for the kayfun are 23mm, i have a few but wont use them. I have 22mm clear tank sections. The fogger is a nice device, but there is much more out there.
     

    crss

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    My real one is machined a bit nicer, but $90 dollars nicer, not so sure about that, blindfolded it would be difficult, if not impossible to tell the difference. I have a $13 rocket which does as well as my $130 KFL+. Is a guy on FeeBay selling real ones with good feedback. Hard to find a vendor with them in stock.
    +1 on the rocket, cheap kayfun clone & good start.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocket-Rebuildable-Atomizer-Tank-Kayfun-3-1-Clone-Retail-Box-SHIPS-FROM-USA-/131083103609?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e85296d79
     

    ccwaters

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    As far as Kayfun the clones go, I have an EHpro 3.1, Hcigar 3.1, Tobeco Lite+ clone, and a Rocket.

    The Rocket seeps juice if you lay it on the side, not bad but a bit, whistles the worse of the bunch, the build deck is pretty crappy as well, that said it vapes as well as any of them, I use it for Pluid, and other hard to remove flavors. don't really care for the plated brass, but no issues so far. Biggest annoyance with it is the top O-ring, it does not fit into the top section, and squeeze between the top of the chimney, and top as you screw it in, tends to pop out often. Easy fix is to to use the rubber from a protank head inverted.

    EHPro 3.1 nicely made, threading is a little sharp, PITA to fill through the fill screw, seeps a little juice from the fill screw, and tank sections, very little, but still does it. very minor whistle, nice build quality on the deck.

    HCigar 3.1 probably the best machining of the bunch, but suffers same seepage as EHPro, otherwise almost Identical flaws and performance.

    Tobeco KFL+ This is easily my favorite, machining is sort of between the EHPro, and the Hcigar, Adjustable 510 pin, beveled fill hole with o-ring on the screw least whistle of the bunch, lightest, no leaks or seeps, I also bought the $4.99 clear tank from madvapes for this one. like the bottom fill much better then the 3.1 clones. I bought it from Ebay, so a little more then you could find it from China, hate to wait though. pretty much same thing as the guy selling the so-called Black Edition on Ebay.
    Kayfun Lite Plus w SS Clear Tank Adjustable 510 Pin Bottom Airflow Fill Screw | eBay

    I know it is cool to support the original designer and all, and I do like my real deal, and will buy a mini one of these days. Only thing is not everyone can afford them.

    All of these give very close performance, the Rocket is good to try and see if you like the Kayfun, but it would be my last choice for sure. I really like the Tobeco but only with the recessed fill hole, and adjustable 510, I will be getting another when funds permit.

    I run them all with microcoils about 1.2 ohms, and cotton, takes me about 30 seconds to change the cotton, coils usually last for quite a while. They are much less fiddly then the fogger, builds go faster, and the Fogger even working well is not hands down better. Airflow is adequate, I remove the adjuster screws in all, I like an Airy Draw, ran the Fogger wide open, the Kayfun clones are not all that much more restricted.

    Pick one up you won't regret it.


    EDIT: Forgot to mention unless your using high PG (thin) juice the rocket doesn't fill decent from the fill screw, that was the other big annoyance with it. If I'm using thicker juice, or just don't want to mess with the fill screws I usually unscrew the top section and fill with the tank open, this goes for all of 3.1 clones I've seen. And if you don't fill it properly it will flood badly when filling from the open top.
     
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    zandersig

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    First, you have to master coil building & wicking, or you'll have the same problem no matter what you buy.
    1.) The coil looks mighty close to the base, you sure there's no hot spots?
    2.) Tighten up the coils (less spacing between wraps) a bit
    3.) The wick might be pinching at the channel slots, not letting juice in, when you open it up is the wick dry?


    Hey bro, some questions... if you don't mind?

    #1 can the coils be touching (side to side but no crossed wires, right)

    #2 the wire that goes to the posts (which only wrap halfway around the wick) do you count those as a full coil?
     

    SkvLTD

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    Hey bro, some questions... if you don't mind?

    #1 can the coils be touching (side to side but no crossed wires, right)

    #2 the wire that goes to the posts (which only wrap halfway around the wick) do you count those as a full coil?

    If you're not running SS mesh, then coil can be compressed together no problem. I wouldn't count the leading ends since they never really fully heat unless you have a hot spot of some sort.

    I think I'm close to fully debugging my SS build and it's becoming more and more predictable. Fill by closing off the afc and holding your finger over the chimney. Fill slow. And once juice runs out, dry burn enough to get most of the old flavor out, so new flavor tastes perfectly fine with little to no old taste lingering. Else, tilting it towards either juice channel to help burn off any excess seems to do the trick.

    When mine gurgles/floods a bit, I simply blow it out using the air holes/burn off that excess as best I can, and then it works just fine.

    Quite the needy RBA, but I'm lovin it when it decides to work at least semi-consistently.
     

    BobC

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    Hey bro, some questions... if you don't mind?

    #1 can the coils be touching (side to side but no crossed wires, right)

    #2 the wire that goes to the posts (which only wrap halfway around the wick) do you count those as a full coil?
    1.The closer the coils are, the better
    2. Count for what? If you're speaking with respect to ohms, the number of coils by itself is irrelevant, wire length between the posts is the determinant, which is determined by coil diameter as well as number of wraps
     

    itsrayray

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    1.The closer the coils are, the better
    2. Count for what? If you're speaking with respect to ohms, the number of coils by itself is irrelevant, wire length between the posts is the determinant, which is determined by coil diameter as well as number of wraps

    I would not tell him #1, the wires should not be touching. Unless he knows what he is doing. Wires should be spaced, but unless there is a micro.

    If he is not sure of coil building, then a micro he is not ready for.
     
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    BobC

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    I would not tell him #1, the wires should not be touching. Unless he knows what he is doing. Wires should be spaced, but unless there is a micro.

    If he is not sure of coil building, then a micro he is not ready for.

    Now, why would you not tell him that? I'm sure he understands not to cross coils, just touch them, and why do you relegate touching coils to micro only? You should have all coils close as possible if not touching, that goes for nano, micro, mini & maxi


    Edit: BTW, I've never built a spaced coil, on any medium including ribbon, from 2 ohms down to .6 ohms (the lowest I like)
     
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    zandersig

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    Thanks all. I know not to cross wires I was just wondering if they can touch each other side by side.
    yeah I was talking about coils (wraps). So just count the wire that goes all the way around the wick, right? B-) plus I always check my build with my meter to make sure it's working.
     
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