Fender0942 & bstedh's Scubagenv3 CO-OP discussion

[Darkreign]

Got mine working pretty well after I made a new wick with 45º bias. Could really use a good method to fine tune the air flow, but I guess that's why there is a v5-6 to look forward to

What I have done to adjust airflow is to take bstedh's advice and drilled a hole into the atty chamber and inserted the tube from a dead CE2. To adjust the draw from there I cut 1/4" wide pieces of SS400 in varying lengths, 1/4" - 1/2" and rolled them tight enough to fit inside the tube. The longer the piece, the tighter the draw. It took about 3 tries to get it where I wanted it and I measured out at 1/4" x 5/16".

I know I am not describing it very well, but hopefully you get the jist of it.

 

[bstedh]

 

[Robert T]

Please explain what I'm looking at there, bstedh.......

Robert

 

[Robert T]

Never mind, I just read the answer in the other thread, I'm going to try this, hope it works! I didn't have any problem with the build or rolling the wick or the coil but it would not wick fast enough, which is strange since I had great success with the ce2 wick mod in a tank. Great idea with the o-ring, my wicks seemed to be attracted to the center post also.

Robert

 

[eplates]

Just tried the J wick and it does work much better..though I have no idea why..

 

[bstedh]

Wick prep that works better for me.
I heat the wick with a pencil torch until it glows and then instead of quenching in water I put a drop or two of juice on it. Repeat 5 to 10 times. I got less shorting doing this.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

 

[Darkreign]

So with the J wick, do you guys cut the flat SS at the regular lengths, make your bends, heat treatment, then cut off the excess. Or do you guys reduce the overall length in the first step?

 

[bstedh]

So with the J wick, do you guys cut the flat SS at the regular lengths, make your bends, heat treatment, then cut off the excess. Or do you guys reduce the overall length in the first step?

Mine started at the regular length ony because I had the mesh pre-cut.

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[Krythis]

my wick comes up much higher than the image of bstedh's. Has anyone noticed any impact by the height of the wick and pins?

 

[Krythis]

A #015 O-Ring works perfect on the ScubaGenV3 and does not leak.

I recommend the Red Silicone O-Rings from McMaster-Carr. Part Number - 9396K21 - Using the Red Silcone O-rings allow the Polycarbonate tubing to slide on and off a lot easier.

O-Rings are also available in Black, Buna-N. McMaster-Carr Part number 9555k16 - However, the Polycarbonate tubing is a lot harder to get on and off when using the Black Buna-N O-Rings.

I ordered both of these o-rings late Monday night and they were on my doorstep this morning. The red ones fit perfectly, thanks!

 

[bstedh]

my wick comes up much higher than the image of bstedh's. Has anyone noticed any impact by the height of the wick and pins?

My first one came up pretty high also. I made this one with the specific goal of making the terminals as short as I possibly could to reduce how high the wick would be.

 

[Krythis]

My first one came up pretty high also. I made this one with the specific goal of making the terminals as short as I possibly could to reduce how high the wick would be.

I still have low vapor production with very high TH and what feels like a head buzz from a puff or two. Do you think this could have anything to do with how high the wick is? Maybe lower juice flow or something?

 

[jdubious]

I still have low vapor production with very high TH and what feels like a head buzz from a puff or two. Do you think this could have anything to do with how high the wick is? Maybe lower juice flow or something?

hmm, now you got me wondering. I have the exact same problem and my posts and wick are kinda high as well.

 

[Darkreign]

I was having the same exact issues, but I have made some changes that have seemed to fix it. One was sealing the center tube with silicon and installing the tube into the atty chamber and aiming it at the coil. When I first did that it increased the vapor production dramatically but I lost almost all TH. I have been fine tuning the balance between the two by rolling up small pieces of SS and inserting them into the air tube to create resistance.

I am not sure if that will help your issues, but it certainly helped mine.

Now if I can figure out why I am not wicking fast enough I will be set.

 

[PKZap27]

The springs that where included in this Co-Op are too long and need to be cut down. I haven't cut any of them down because I use the correct length springs.

The SS Mesh sheet has a grain to it and if you cut the mesh so the grain is horizontal, it shouldn't kink when you bend it with a wire inside. It helps to twist the ends of the wick in opposite directions while you bend it in a curve with the wire inside.

I use a smaller guage wire (26 AWG) for the positive connection and coil it up over a piece of SS tubing (~22 Gauge). I then insert the coiled wire inside the center tube and then insert another SS tube (12 Gauge) inside the coiled wire to move the wire around to the outside of the center hole and make sure it has a nice air passage through it. You may need a different gauge of SS tubing depending on the wire you use.

Here is a link that has some notes, information, & pictures of my ScubaGenV3 build. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...env3-tank-mod-510-connection.html#post3987513

When soldering the negative post I first put flux inside the roll pin and then melt some solder in the roll pin by applying heat with the soldering iron to the top of the pin. I then melt the solder with the soldering iron on top of the pin to get the nail started and insert the spring post enough to hold it in place. I use a small tool to hold/push down on top of the spring post while using a butane torch to heat the body of the ScubaGenV3 in the O-ring grove right by the negative post. After applying enough heat to this area I then move the torch up to the top of the roll pin at the base of the spring post and only heat the top of the roll pin enough to melt the solder and push the pin in just alittle bit and remove the heat and let it set up. I cut a very small amount off of the roll pin and chamfer it at a 45 deg angle with a dremel tool so it is the correct length prior to inserting it in the hole. This also makes for a nice clean area for the solder to stick to.

I press an old CE2 connector (Stripped Down) into the bottom of the ScubaGenV3 and press a 510 battery connector into a hole in a piece of plywood to hold the ScubaGenV3 while working on it. I then use a long bolt inserted in the top and tap on it with a small hammer to knock out the connector when finished. Make sure the long bolt doesn't hit the spring post when removing the connector this way.

 

[bstedh]

We probably should have made it more clear that the springs are long. They where out of the spec length when we were ordering parts and had to settle for the closest they had in stock. With mine I cut over half of the length down to get the shortest possible post and still have enough spring to grab the Kanthal.

 

[bstedh]

Just want to ask if there is anybody that has not gotten there package yet. "Other than the one that came back to my house".

 

[jimho]

We probably should have made it more clear that the springs are long. They where out of the spec length when we were ordering parts and had to settle for the closest they had in stock. With mine I cut over half of the length down to get the shortest possible post and still have enough spring to grab the Kanthal.

I think alot of the info re: improvements wasn't out there till a few weeks ago- you had to go with what was known at the time, and what you could get.
Add, its next to near impossible to order 2 or 3 of thesse parts- they come in packs of 100 so you get what you get and you live with it....

how are you clipping the springs?

I'm hoping to be putting shorter springs in the parts packs I'm putting together...
So far: spacers, washers, nuts, o-rings (16mm and 9mm - red silicone), and if I can get them, the shorter springs.


EDIT: this pack will basically include all the additional parts you'll need to build PKZap's version.

 

[bstedh]

I just cut the springs with a wire cutter. You don't get the nice flat edge but I just put the cut end at the bottom so it doesn't effect whatever you are using to pinch the kanthal.

 

[PKZap27]

I think alot of the info re: improvements wasn't out there till a few weeks ago- you had to go with what was known at the time, and what you could get.
Add, its next to near impossible to order 2 or 3 of thesse parts- they come in packs of 100 so you get what you get and you live with it....

how are you clipping the springs?

I'm hoping to be putting shorter springs in the parts packs I'm putting together...
So far: spacers, washers, nuts, o-rings (16mm and 9mm - red silicone), and if I can get them, the shorter springs.


EDIT: this pack will basically include all the additional parts you'll need to build PKZap's version.

Correct O-ring size and part numbers.

#015 Red Silicone O-ring (9/16" ID x 11/16" OD) for the main body. McMaster-Carr Part # 9396K21

#009 Red Silicone O-ring (7/32" ID x 11/32" OD) for the drip tip. McMaster-Carr Part # 9396K14