First the Puck, now the Puck SD

[ThePuck]

What the heck is the Puck SD? Well I had to travel out of town this week to San Diego so I wanted to create a small box (smaller than the original Puck.. which is here ) to carry with me and vape at the airports as I was traveling.

The night before I left, I threw this together in about an hour. It is still based on the exact parts used to create the Puck except for the push button switch which is a Radio shack 275-1571 and is still based on the 910 atomizer and using 4 AAA NiMH rechargable batteries you can buy at the grocery store. All parts are still all Radio shack parts.

So I call it the Puck SD (San Diego) because that is what I built it for... the trip to SD. It's not the prettiest thing because I threw it together really fast and it uses JB Weld Putty to form a mount for the atomizer connector but it is functional, very small and kicks like a mule!

Anyway... I didn't have time to do a complete tutorial on it yet and it does take fitting some small parts into very small places but it is small. Really small.

You may get an idea on how to build it just by the pictures. Sorry, i used my camera phone at the hotel I'm staying at to take the photos but they're not too bad.

I might do a tutorial when I get back home next week. It's not that hard to build... just a bit tedious because parts have to be placed in exact positions to get them to fit correctly.

Also, a new feature created here can be also added to the original Puck. It's a magnetic back cover instead of having to slide off the old one.

I love this little thing and haven't put it down yet.

And now... the Puck SD...

Build yourself one and enjoy

 

[ThePuck]

Here is part of the mod for the back magnetic cover...

Break off only the left tab. The right tab remains because the little notched part is cut out the the push button switch.

Put the original screw back into the screw post and mount the magnet in the original hole for the screw in the back cover. Just enlarge the hole just big enough to tightly fit the magnet and out a little epoxy on the underside to secure the magnet.

 

[WillyB]

Why in the world would you go from a solid 3A switch to a grossly under rated 0.5A one?

 

[ThePuck]

Why in the world would you go from a solid 3A switch to a grossly under rated 0.5A one?

It's not under rated. It's 0.5A... but at 125 vac. It has way more than enough to handle an e-cig atomizer.

The only bad thing about these switches is sometimes, you get one that isn't perfect. You get two in a pack. I've used these little switches a lot and sometimes you'll get one that doesn't make contact about 1 out of 30 pushes out of the package. You let go and press again and it then works.

I think out of buying over 100 of these over the years, I've gotten 6or 7 that wouldn't always make contact every time when you hit the button. The switch would always still work. Just once in a while you'd have to let go and press it again. That's just a defect with the switch right out of the package.

But as far as current, you're not gonna burn this thing out

"Get things going with this package of two normally-open momentary switches--one red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole."

 

[WillyB]

It's not under rated. It's 0.5A... but at 125 vac. It has way more than enough to handle an e-cig atomizer.

The only bad thing about these switches is sometimes, you get one that isn't perfect. You get two in a pack. I've used these little switches a lot and sometimes you'll get one that doesn't make contact about 1 out of 30 pushes out of the package. You let go and press again and it then works.

But as far as current, you're not gonna burn this thing out

It doesn't quite work that way. I assume you are dividing 120 by 5 or so and multiplying times .5A. DC switching is much harder on contacts than AC and by your own post these don't seem especially well made either. You'll also notice that cheap switches may list 120VAC and 220Vac ratings but seldom do you see any DC ratings/specs.

 

[ThePuck]

It doesn't quite work that way. I assume you are dividing 120 by 5 or so and multiplying times .5A. DC switching is much harder on contacts than AC and by your own post these don't seem especially well made either. You'll also notice that cheap switches may list 120VAC and 220Vac ratings but seldom do you see any DC ratings/specs.

No, not really. I'm not dividing or multiplying anything. Altough not fully correct as DC values go, I use wattage to get a ballpark. With the current ratings, these switches should handle about 60 watts. I'm only pulling 7 watts. But I don't stop there. I actually test switches to see how they perform. There are so many factors when dealing with switches that it is almost impossible to "spec" a switch for a given application without doing some fudge numbers.

I wouldn't suggest anything that didn't actually work. I know these work because I have been using these in circuits for over 15 years. Radio shack has sold them (the same set of two switches) for over that long. I have used them in tons of applications, some demanding way more than any ecig could pull.

I have versions of the Puck that already use them and have not failed. I have a history with these switches which is why I also posted the downside. Even the switches that have the problem I mentioned still work. They just may not make contact every push of the button if you kind of push it off to the side. If I get one of those, I just replace it with one that does. They're cheap, you get two to a pack, no problem.

When you have one that works, it will not stop working. I have never had one fail. I just get one occasionally that has the problem I mentioned.

So don't be too hard on them. They work. Others on the forum are using them also I have noticed but I have used them for over 15 years and never has one actually failed. You just get a goofy one once in a while.

I will not post anything that I do not know about or have not tested thoroughly so rest assured, if I post it, it has worked for me very well.

 

[ThePuck]

Why in the world would you go from a solid 3A switch to a grossly under rated 0.5A one?

Also... the normal 3 amp switch is way too big to fit into this application. The switch I'm using works great (I've used them tons of times for other applications) and fits perfectly into the tiny space.

 

[Nobodyatall]

Very cool build and what I was thinking to do.

Really, thanks for showing just how easy it is to put these things together. E-cig sellers must hate it, but it goes far to demystify the subject.

Let me amend that slightly... I really need to thank you, Nicowolf, and everyone who plops photos of their work onto the forum. It's inspiring.

 

[mistinthewoods]

I've been having real good luck with these C&K switches. C&K Components 3A Black Pushbutton switch
3A. 125V. Well made with silver contacts. They cost more but I hate changing out switches.

 

[peaceoffcake]

It's not under rated. It's 0.5A... but at 125 vac. It has way more than enough to handle an e-cig atomizer.

The only bad thing about these switches is sometimes, you get one that isn't perfect. You get two in a pack. I've used these little switches a lot and sometimes you'll get one that doesn't make contact about 1 out of 30 pushes out of the package. You let go and press again and it then works.

I think out of buying over 100 of these over the years, I've gotten 6or 7 that wouldn't always make contact every time when you hit the button. The switch would always still work. Just once in a while you'd have to let go and press it again. That's just a defect with the switch right out of the package.

But as far as current, you're not gonna burn this thing out

"Get things going with this package of two normally-open momentary switches--one red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole."

If you don't have problems with those switches than you can call yourself Lucky.
I made few mods with this switch and in my Chuck is that switch. Usualy problem is after few days heavy vaping.
Now I use switch rated 3A and I don't have problem anymore.
The switch is bigger but work much better.

 

[ThePuck]

Thats a nice switch but it is too big for a lot of my applications. I can barely get the switch I posted into some of the mods.

I've never had one quit working on me, even with heavy vaping. Usually, the bad ones are bad right out of the package and a little pretesting before installing one will cause any defect to show up pretty quickly with my experience with these.

That's my experience with these little switches. They are not my favorite switch to use but one of the only switches I can find that will fit into some of the small mods I make, and not cost $50.00 per switch.

If anyone else out there has a very small switch they favor, post away.

 

[peaceoffcake]

I search for small and durable switch for my mods but i didn't find any. I heard about mosfet but I can't understand how to wire it. In that case (with mosfet) we can use small switch low rated. Help in searching is welcome. And if I find it I let you know.

 

[Para]

I used the same switch on this mod (14500 battery) and it works great.

I had to use it because of cramped space, but I don't like the small diameter of the push button so I made a larger one for the switch after I took the pic

Where can I get the larger button; it might be perfect for a mod I'm working on.

 

[peaceoffcake]

I buy it from Madvapes.

 

[Para]

I buy it from Madvapes.

Thanks for the source....appreciate the help

 

[peaceoffcake]

No problem

 

[40bikes]

ThePuck, I'm still interested in a tutorial. I have started gathering materials for a couple of original Pucks and would like to see what you did on the SD model. Just waiting to get an order for the LED and some connectors that I need to order from madvapes.
I realize this thread turned into a debate on your choice of switches but I've had some success as well with underrated components used as a matter of necessity. Now a 50mA tactile switch would be another matter.
Thanks for the Pucks, great idea especially as I already have a couple of those NiMH quick chargers and some AAAs. bikes

 

[48lowes]

My thanks to you too Puck. I've read about all the debate I care to about this or that switch, I'll go with experience. Keep on keeping on my man.

 

[capecodjim]

What the heck is the Puck SD?
I might do a tutorial when I get back home next week. It's not that hard to build... just a bit tedious because parts have to be placed in exact positions to get them to fit correctly.


And now... the Puck SD...

Build yourself one and enjoy

Thanks Puck!! I'm just waiting on an atty and some carts to fire up the Puck I started today. I'd love to see some detailed pics of the SD and how you've placed the components.

update... I found it in the "my mod photos" in the album in your profile. Pict #2 shows the placement of all but the resistor which I assume is tucked inside. Thanks!

 

[ThePuck]

Thanks Puck!! I'm just waiting on an atty and some carts to fire up the Puck I started today. I'd love to see some detailed pics of the SD and how you've placed the components.

update... I found it in the "my mod photos" in the album in your profile. Pict #2 shows the placement of all but the resistor which I assume is tucked inside. Thanks!

Yep, the resistor is attached to the positive side of the LED down inside there.