Focalecig ... A new Fasttech??

[Crocky]

Was looking at the Vmax 5. I wonder why they didn't just make it for a 18650 battery instead of 2-18350's? Looking into something "similar" to "theitemwecannotmention" (bawahahaha!) because the BF has been eye-ing mine, and hella if I'm going to put out $159-179 on something he will no doubt loose. Maybe if he puts his mind to rebuilding coils and such..........but..........nah...........I'd get him a Vmax and buy another one of "theitemwecannotname" in a mini for myself, LOL!

Vmax has 900mAh, unmentionable has 2000mAh......3-6v vs 2.9-6v, hmm, should stop now while I'm ahead!

Have you seen the rainbow sigelei zmax v5? Sweet looking. I just can't stand the rattlesnake sound it makes when firing from that chip they use. Not sure if the v5 uses it or not but i have an older version as a knock around and I rarely use it because if this.

 

[bdpf]

This fix, for a Nemesis, can work on the Caravela clone. I've used it to shorten my throw.

Nemesis Button Fix - Imgur

So I used your idea but instead of the mouthpiece cover used a drip tip o-ring and it works like a charm. Now the throw is nice and short the way I like it.

Now one last question I promise Is there a way to prevent the bottom part of the switch from spinning?
On the Nemesis switch, that's what the small pin is for but since there is nothing here to prevent the spinning, the bottom part keeps on spinning, eventually changing the length of the bottom pin that extends to make contact with the battery.

 

[Nikkita6]

Thanks, already did that.
I still find it a bit long for my liking and asked in case someone found a "trick" to make it even shorter. I guess I'll leave with it.
This is my first polished mod. How do you keep it clean LOL! I mean it looked beautiful when I took it out of the box but not so much after 5 min LOL!
Seriously though, I'm sure you guys don't polish it with metal polish every single time so what do you clean it with? Just a wet cloth would do?

Ugh, I know, its a total fingerprint magnet ... I don't use metal polish, I use rubbing alcohol to clean mine, and she's right back to shiny, with no film, or residue. I tried a wet cloth and it just made it look smudgy, and dull. With alcohol I feel that it cuts the grime, and makes it clean as a whistle.

 

[Nikkita6]

So I used your idea but instead of the mouthpiece cover used a drip tip o-ring and it works like a charm. Now the throw is nice and short the way I like it.

Now one last question I promise Is there a way to prevent the bottom part of the switch from spinning?
On the Nemesis switch, that's what the small pin is for but since there is nothing here to prevent the spinning, the bottom part keeps on spinning, eventually changing the length of the bottom pin that extends to make contact with the battery.

That was going to be my suggestion as that is how I shortened mine, like you I like it pretty short (I love my spare bag of o rings )... I was also hoping that it would stop the switch from spinning, but it doesn't unfortunately, so I have to re-adjust it with every use. I plan to take it all apart one day to see if there is a more permanent fix.

 

[Nikkita6]

Was looking at the Vmax 5. I wonder why they didn't just make it for a 18650 battery instead of 2-18350's? Looking into something "similar" to "theitemwecannotmention" (bawahahaha!) because the BF has been eye-ing mine, and hella if I'm going to put out $159-179 on something he will no doubt loose. Maybe if he puts his mind to rebuilding coils and such..........but..........nah...........I'd get him a Vmax and buy another one of "theitemwecannotname" in a mini for myself, LOL!

Vmax has 900mAh, unmentionable has 2000mAh......3-6v vs 2.9-6v, hmm, should stop now while I'm ahead!

I just watched a review for the new Siglei 20W, and it has a new chip technology that doesn't have the rattlesnake sound, and it fires builds as low as .05 ohm. Based on the review it appears to be a very solid device.

So you're scheming on another unmentionable mini eh?

 

[Crocky]

Doesn't the new sigelei 20w have that Shake feature? I know the legend does but I am thinking the 20w does too. If so that might drive me nuts

 

[alternatifer]

I've saw twisted review on sig 20, unlike legend, this works by tilting it. I'm currently using zmax v5 but sig20 really interest me

 

[Christopherja]

Now one last question I promise Is there a way to prevent the bottom part of the switch from spinning?
On the Nemesis switch, that's what the small pin is for but since there is nothing here to prevent the spinning, the bottom part keeps on spinning, eventually changing the length of the bottom pin that extends to make contact with the battery.

I could see that happening with an o-ring, given its relative "bulkiness", but it doesn't happen in my set-up, where I used a tiny sliver of silicone from a drip-tip cover. I tested various lengths of the silicone - if the switch spinning would entail unscrewing the switch, I took it apart, cut the silicone even smaller, and tried again. Eventually, I found the sweet spot. Worth a shot, perhaps?

 

[bdpf]

Forgive my OCD but how do you guys line up the logos from the atomizer and the mod.
I have an Ithaka on the Caravela.
If everything is tied up on the tube, then the 2 logos don't line up.
If I manage to have everything working and the logos lined up, then I end up with a small gap either between the tube and the switch or between the tube and the top cap.
Is there a way to have everything looking nice (logos in line and no gap anywhere)?

 

[Nikkita6]

Doesn't the new sigelei 20w have that Shake feature? I know the legend does but I am thinking the 20w does too. If so that might drive me nuts

Hmm, not sure about that, I don't recall seeing the shake feature, but I was also mixing eliquid while watching the review. I usually don't like single button APV's, but I was digging the display features on the Sigelei 20W, and I liked how it showed the battery voltage without load, and then under load while firing it .. that was pretty cool. Its also pretty pricey at $130 bucks.

 

[Nikkita6]

Forgive my OCD but how do you guys line up the logos from the atomizer and the mod.
I have an Ithaka on the Caravela.
If everything is tied up on the tube, then the 2 logos don't line up.
If I manage to have everything working and the logos lined up, then I end up with a small gap either between the tube and the switch or between the tube and the top cap.
Is there a way to have everything looking nice (logos in line and no gap anywhere)?

Sorry, haven't been able to figure that one out myself ... believe me I tried. It does bug me a little that I can't get the Taifun logo line up with the ship engraving. I tried switching pins, but like you said, all I got was a gap in the tubes for it. I would rather have the Taifun log of center, then have the gap in the tube... I managed to get my Kraken logos to line up with it, but that is easy to do because I can adjust the tank sleeve on the Kraken.

Maybe sanding down one of the longer spare pins that come with the Caravela?? So there is no gap in the tube ...

 

[bdpf]

Yeah, it's not super important and I know I'm being picky but it's just that the 2 go very well together, they both have very nice logos so it would have been nice if they would line up.
Not sure that I'll sand the post though because I might have it to look nice now but then when I'll be tired of the Ithaka I'll have the same problem with the next atty LOL!

 

[NiNi]

Ok, kids! FINALLY!
Had to replace the stock coil/wick from the 2 e5cig KFL+'s when I received them and got around to it last night. This is exactly how I am doing anything "KFL". Since I don't believe in cell phones, took them with my Sony digi camera and had to use Photoshop to bring the size down.
NOTE: If these abused 52 year old hands, with bouts of carpel tunnel, can do this, I think just about anyone can. And I'm not into a lot of "gadgets" so I'm keeping it simple.



This is what I use: 28 gauge wire and an 18 gauge syringe tip (tip cut off). I cut about a 4" piece of wire off the spool.



I wrap between 8-10 wraps around the needle. I "smoosh" them together a bit before I take them off.



I put a large undone paper clip in through the coil (to keep it's shape), place on the top of the base, over the air hole, on the KFL. I am using an MVP to do my build on. After wrapping the ends of the coil around the posts, I tighten with the Phillips and clip off the ends with a toenail clipper. If I need to recenter the coil, I use the paper clip.



I heat my coil on the MVP several times (you want the coil to heat from the center outwards), using tweezers to compress the coil after I release the fire button.....



*Don't compress while you still have electricity running through your coil!

Continued on next post....have a 5 pic limit............

 

[Nikkita6]

please read on for the Kayfun Masters continued post ...

 

[NiNi]

...continued.........



Not the best angle, but make sure the wire and coil does not have contact with any part of the top, other than the 2 screws. It will short, ie "not fire".



I use sterile cotton fro livestock wraps. Boiled twice, excess water squeezed out, and dried. Pull a piece off of whatever cotton your using and twist an end of it into a point, cutting any stray fibers off. Thread it through your coil, looks kinda difficult without a magnifying glass, but if you have a clean point, it's easy.



Bring both ends of your wick up....kinda looks like bunny ears.........



Run the "bunny ears" through the base of you chimney, and screw the chimney base down. This and the stack need to be securely tightened. Take a pair of scissors and cut the bunny ears off level with the top of the chimney base.



Saturate you wicks with ejuice, avoiding any drops directly over the air hole. I then gently push the wicks down the sides. You may see ejuice coming out of the juice canals outside the stack/chimney base, no problem, just means you have your wicks primed pretty well.

and..........continued..........

 

[NiNi]

......continued........



Wicks pushed down........



Test fire your set up. This is the last time you have the opportunity to check to see that your build is good and there's no shorts. If it fires well, screw on the first tube and then your chimney. Assemble the rest of the KFL.

I check my ohm's on my "devicethatcannotbenamed" but any mod that has an ohm readout or an actual ohm meter works just fine.

 

[Nikkita6]

Sorry NiNi, that I interrupted the flow of your very helpful post ... I didn't see the "continued" at the end. ... I will edit my prior post so that yours flows.

 

[bdpf]

Great step-by-step NiNi!
I do it pretty much exactly the same and am very happy with it.
I add one step however.
Before assembling the rest of the KFL, I got into the habbit to take a few puffs directly from the chimney. This lets you make sure that everything is well with taste a vapor production.
The reason I started doing that is because at the beginning I was assembling the whole thing only to realize that I had too much cotton (dry hits) or too little (gurgling). It was then a pain to reopen everything, suck up the juice with a syringe, rebuild again.

 

[NiNi]

There's a lot of videos out there that show the wicks being longer and laid across the ledge where the insulator lies, I found that method hit or miss. It might vape like a champ for a while and then the dread burnt hits. I hate that when that happens! Then you have to tear down your KFL and replace the wick........URGH.
Playing around with the different wick configurations, I followed what Twisted had in his video, cutting the "bunny ears" at the top of the stack base and pushing them down to the juice channels. It has worked like a charm.

I go through a tank of juice plus a day, but that's from switching out the KFL's. When you finish a tank, seriously think about just dry burning your coil and re-wicking. Just re-filling your juice is hit or miss, sometimes the vacuum persists, sometimes you end up dumping out your juice and tearing the whole unit down because you have juice coming out the air port or the wick just doesn't draw up the juice. I do "drama free" very well, so if I spend a few extra minutes dry burning and re-wicking to keep my frustration level down, it's worth it.

I have yet had the insulator "move" on me. Seems this is an issue with the original.
No leaks from the fill port screw. Again, " " ".
No screws stripping....................also, " " ".
No gurgling......................................." ditto ".

Make sure all of your o-rings are properly placed. Putting just a tiny bit of ejuice on them before you assemble works really well.
Clean the dis-assembled unit every time you rebuild a coil, it just keeps the gunk from building up. Occasionally use a toothbrush on the threads. Make sure you blow through both the juice intake and the air port.
Stack and chimney components need to be snug....like really snug. This prevents flooding and the dread "juice suck". After putting it together a few times AND disassembling it, you'll get a feel for how tight you need to thread it.
Assemble each piece individually. It just works better when you have to disassemble it because the slick finish can be a bear to hold onto. If parts do get stuck, use painter's tape so you can get a better grip. If that fails, you can use channel locks on the painter's tape and avoid any scratches.

~FIN~

 

[NiNi]

Great step-by-step NiNi!
I do it pretty much exactly the same and am very happy with it.
I add one step however.
Before assembling the rest of the KFL, I got into the habbit to take a few puffs directly from the chimney. This lets you make sure that everything is well with taste a vapor production.
The reason I started doing that is because at the beginning I was assembling the whole thing only to realize that I had too much cotton (dry hits) or too little (gurgling). It was then a pain to reopen everything, suck up the juice with a syringe, rebuild again.

Awesome tip!

These puppies ARE a PITA when you forget to do something and then you have to tear it all down!