Focalecig ... A new Fasttech??

[Nikkita6]

Well, Tuesday is not too long to wait, Decided to order it, only $22 with tracking.
Was looking around and the original is $150
This is a good deal if it works good and is 1:1

vape On
Burnie

I hope so too

 

[TamiPac]

you'll know if the thing is cracked (glass). really no mistaking that

what I tell/ask people, "what do you prefer to drink out of"

people stopped drinking out of steel/aluminum cups like 100 years ago. PMMA drip tips have this "flavor" that I can never seem to get rid of

obviously if it doesn't bother you it doesn't bother me

also, the condensation on the glass DTs just look awesome to me

I can't use the glass because I think the condensation makes them look dirty.

 

[Nikkita6]

Ok so I searched a bit for info on magnetic stainless steel, and Ferritic and martensitic stainless steels are magnetic. Austenitic stainless steels are non-magnetic.

According to a few sites on this topic, 316L which is Austenitic/non magnetic, but does become magnetic during "cold working" .. I have no idea what that means

I also read that 316L can become magnetized when it is being machined by other Ferritic metal equipment ...

 

[KTMRider]

Oh, believe me, there are several things I want . But, I really need to be on a spending moratorium right now.

I spent over $400 in July and that held me over for 2 months. I'm on a buying frenzy again this month.

 

[bsoplinger]

I thought copper was a rather common metal used in plating to increase adhesion between the base metal and the plating. If the Zen had a finished layer then the robbot is 1:1 still, no?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[The.Drifter]

Ok so I searched a bit for info on magnetic stainless steel, and Ferritic and martensitic stainless steels are magnetic. Austenitic stainless steels are non-magnetic.

According to a few sites on this topic, 316L which is Austenitic/non magnetic, but does become magnetic during "cold working" .. I have no idea what that means

I also read that 316L can become magnetized when it is being machined by other Ferritic metal equipment ...

Looks like we are hitting the same sites for 316 SS magnetic properties info
You are correct that 316 is Austenitic and non magnetic to start with and can become magnetized by certain processes.

Looks like I learned something new today too

At our shop we use magnets on unlabeled SS to determine whether its 316 or not, but that is before any machining is done to it, we didnt take into account that it could become magnetized after certain machining processes, thus the confusion at our shop about this subject today.

 

[The.Drifter]

Ok as promised here is a exploded view of the Robbot ZNA.

when reassembling it (due to the short wires) I found that it was easier to but the board in sideways to allow the max length of the negative wire to protrude through the opening to solder it.

Here is a shot of the board reinstalled:

Back to working again:

Shot of the contrast between Tube and Main body:

Final shot assembled:

I recommend that if you do take your ZNA apart that you take photos during the disassembly process.

On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being easiest and 10 being hardest, I rate swapping out the board a solid 9 in difficulty due to the limited space to work in and the sequence of steps to disassemble and reassemble.

Not for the faint of heart if your worried about frying a $100 mod.

 

[Nailz]

Drifter you really have some good skills man, I wouldn't even attempt half of the things you do

 

[halfempty]

I'm not sure how much the Dark Horse can be throttled back but I guess I'll find out. I prefer my RDAs kind of airy so it should work well for me. However, I don't plan on using it with the massive drip top cap. I'll post my thoughts on it in a couple of weeks when it shows up.

I am currently using one of those massive drip top caps on a Tobh with a tame build and only using 1 1/2 air holes. When I first saw them I thought I would never use such a thing, but it has an unintended usefulness for lazy people like me. You can clearly see your build and wick so you don't have to pull anything off to check and drip.

On a different note I pulled a Nailz today. Forgot to lock my Nemesis with the Infinite KFL+ on it when I put it in my back pocket and sat down. The back pocket of the jeans smells like butterscotch tobacco, the KFL and Nemmy are in pieces drying out after a hot water bath, and the burn spot on my .... is sore. Lesson learned, I hope.

 

[The.Drifter]

Drifter you really have some good skills man, I wouldn't even attempt half of the things you do

Thanks buddy

 

[Nailz]

I am currently using one of those massive drip top caps on a Tobh with a tame build and only using 1 1/2 air holes. When I first saw them I thought I would never use such a thing, but it has an unintended usefulness for lazy people like me. You can clearly see your build and wick so you don't have to pull anything off to check and drip.

On a different note I pulled a Nailz today. Forgot to lock my Nemesis with the Infinite KFL+ on it when I put it in my back pocket and sat down. The back pocket of the jeans smells like butterscotch tobacco, the KFL and Nemmy are in pieces drying out after a hot water bath, and the burn spot on my .... is sore. Lesson learned, I hope.

Glad I'm not the only one

At least I didn't get a burnt .... as well though

I think once you've done it, you take more notice, I know I double check now.

 

[Nikkita6]

Looks like we are hitting the same sites for 316 SS magnetic properties info
You are correct that 316 is Austenitic and non magnetic to start with and can become magnetized by certain processes.

Looks like I learned something new today too
At our shop we use magnets on unlabeled SS to determine whether its 316 or not, but that is before any machining is done to it, we didnt take into account that it could become magnetized after certain machining processes, thus the confusion at our shop about this subject today.

I know right .. I was actually happy that the topic came up because I like learning new things. I also read something about 316 cast? being more likely to become magnetized, so then I was going to ask you Drifter, what is the difference between casting a SS part and machine cutting it?

Another interesting thing .. I did use two different magnets to check my ZNA, and the tiny disk magnet stuck, but another large, thick disk magnet wouldn't stick at all to it. I use the larger disk magnet to remove magnets from my mech switches.

And I also read that there is a "Moly drop test" that is used to determine whether something is really 316 or not due to the reasons you and I already discovered, the magnet test is the not the most fool proof test for this ... too bad the Moly test kit was $300

 

[Nikkita6]

Ok so based on these photos I am not so sure that this is something that I want to attempt myself I would like to think that I am quite handy, but I don't know if I am quite handy enough .. you my friend may have a future in tons of custom work.

How do you "sandblast" stainless steel anyway?

Do you think that you would be able to fix a ZNA that has a auto firing issue due to improper insulation at the soldered connections??

Ok as promised here is a exploded view of the Robbot ZNA.

when reassembling it (due to the short wires) I found that it was easier to but the board in sideways to allow the max length of the negative wire to protrude through the opening to solder it.

Here is a shot of the board reinstalled:

Back to working again:

Shot of the contrast between Tube and Main body:

Final shot assembled:

I recommend that if you do take your ZNA apart that you take photos during the disassembly process.

On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being easiest and 10 being hardest, I rate swapping out the board a solid 9 in difficulty due to the limited space to work in and the sequence of steps to disassemble and reassemble.

Not for the faint of heart if your worried about frying a $100 mod.

 

[Nikkita6]

I am currently using one of those massive drip top caps on a Tobh with a tame build and only using 1 1/2 air holes. When I first saw them I thought I would never use such a thing, but it has an unintended usefulness for lazy people like me. You can clearly see your build and wick so you don't have to pull anything off to check and drip.

On a different note I pulled a Nailz today. Forgot to lock my Nemesis with the Infinite KFL+ on it when I put it in my back pocket and sat down. The back pocket of the jeans smells like butterscotch tobacco, the KFL and Nemmy are in pieces drying out after a hot water bath, and the burn spot on my .... is sore. Lesson learned, I hope.

You brought new meaning to "sweet cheeks" and "hot buns"

 

[The.Drifter]

what is the difference between casting a SS part and machine cutting it?

Casting a part requires a mold of the part to be made, then the liquid SS is poured into the mold to produce the part. Most cast parts will have some sort of seam in it where the two halves of the mold meet because you have to remove the part from the mold. Cast parts are usually not very precision parts and require machining to get dimensional accuracy.

The process of casting arranges the molecules in a unorganized pattern and the resulting cast part is difficult to cut because it doesn't sheer smoothly when cutting it with machining tools. It's also difficult to weld cast metals.

The SS we get to machine is usually rolled steel, so the molecules are arrange in a more organized manner resulting in a more even sheering action while cutting it. With machining you can use tools to shape parts with extreme accuracy, something a cast part doesn't have.

 

[TamiPac]

I humbly kneel before you Drifter....the Mod God.

Nicely done!

 

[halfempty]

... <snip> ...

On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being easiest and 10 being hardest, I rate swapping out the board a solid 9 in difficulty due to the limited space to work in and the sequence of steps to disassemble and reassemble.

Not for the faint of heart if your worried about frying a $100 mod.

Thanks for posting those pics. Thoughts of looking for a fried ZNA and putting a DNA40 chip in it has crossed my mind. Those thoughts have now been banished.

 

[The.Drifter]

Ok so based on these photos I am not so sure that this is something that I want to attempt myself I would like to think that I am quite handy, but I don't know if I am quite handy enough .. you my friend may have a future in tons of custom work.

How do you "sandblast" stainless steel anyway?

Do you think that you would be able to fix a ZNA that has a auto firing issue due to improper insulation at the soldered connections??

Thanks Nikki, the only really technical part of swapping out the board would be the soldering of the 2 wires and reassembling it correctly. If you take your time and take pics of the disassembly it should go smoothly considering the small space to work in.

We have a sandblasting box unit at the shop. Basically it's a container that holds median (sand, beads, or glass) and shoots it through a hose at high pressure at the part in a enclosed space. Can produce various finishes depending on the median.

I'm sure the auto firing ZNA could be fixed. It's kinda hard to fix the problem without looking at it and having it in my hands.

 

[The.Drifter]

I humbly kneel before you Drifter....the Mod God.

Nicely done!

Thanks Tami

If I were to do it again..... I wouldn't

 

[G-weezy]

Looking good Drifter, glad you got it sorted out.

Like Drifter mentioned.

Cast: build a mold and pour liquid in.

Machined: block, roll, whatever it comes in gets grinded into shape with tools, CNC machining.

Forged: I think gets pressed into shape.

I dunno. Talking out of my "woo hoo" lol. Leave it to the man Drifter