Fogger V4!!
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I can tell the difference between the Protank and a Fogger. One works quite well at relatively low power, while the other works sort of OK at much higher power. Like I said, RBAs just don't seem to be my cup of tea. The screw terminal system just plain stinks and there are other methods out there. I could add washers myself, but my point is that it shouldn't be necessary is all I'm saying. I've pointed out what I think are the weak points of the Fogger, the only RBA I have. I did forget to mention the crappy air controller as well, look at it wrong and it changes. Again, why should the end user have to add Teflon tape of dental floss to make something work right?
Point is that if you're a fan of RBAs and low ohm devices fine, I'm not and they do nothing for me to "improve the experience". I'm still holding out hope that once I put it on an iPV50 it will perform much better, but that will be the last chance for it with me.
Point is that if you're a fan of RBAs and low ohm devices fine, I'm not and they do nothing for me to "improve the experience". I'm still holding out hope that once I put it on an iPV50 it will perform much better, but that will be the last chance for it with me.
"Sort of OK" is not at all an accurate assessment of a Fogger. If it's only "sort of OK," then you're doing it wrong
I would never recommend the fogger for a 1st RBA for someone, I love the fogger, think it is the best RBA at the moment, but it is tricky to build to start with, and if not use to doing RBA's, then are going to struggle with it. I agree getting the coils right takes a bit of practice, it would make it a lot easier if they put holes in the posts and no idea why they haven't done this by now, as on version 4 of this mod, sure it has come up many times.
Also there is a learning curve on how to wick the fogger, but when you get it right, the fogger preforms like a star.
They have addressed the air flow on the newer foggers, it is now threaded, I do have 1 fogger where the air flow is not threaded, and I just took it off altogether, but I do like my air flow all the way open anyway.
Also there is a learning curve on how to wick the fogger, but when you get it right, the fogger preforms like a star.
They have addressed the air flow on the newer foggers, it is now threaded, I do have 1 fogger where the air flow is not threaded, and I just took it off altogether, but I do like my air flow all the way open anyway.
Even without holes but just using better screws would make a world of difference. I bought cheese head (I think I have the term correct) screws to replace those in my Kayfuns and the difference really is huge for some. Between the "meatier" head and the completely flat underside its just so much easier to attach wire. Never thought about replacing the Fogger screws since I haven't had problems like I did with the Kayfun. Perhaps having 2 wires around the head keeps them in place better as I tighten or maybe I just got lucky.
Offhand, does anyone know the size and pitch of the screws in the Fogger? I'm using rayon wicking and I haven't opened mine up for over 2 weeks now.
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Offhand, does anyone know the size and pitch of the screws in the Fogger? I'm using rayon wicking and I haven't opened mine up for over 2 weeks now.
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Just got my fogger, did my first build and it works like a charm. Granted I've got about a year and a half experience with rebuilding coils. The screws are much better than my kayfun clone screws, with 26 gauge wire it caught just fine and didn't have to wrap it all the way around the screw like the kayfun clone. I wrapped two micro coils around a mini screw driver, stuck the coils in vertical with the screw drivers into the air holes and secured the wire. Once the wire was secured I turned the coils horizontal and ran some cotton threw, screwed on the cap and stuck the cotton down the juice channels.
I don't think it would be that easy if I haven't been building coils for as long as I've had though, for a first timer I'd recommend an IGO-W or something else cheap.
I don't think it would be that easy if I haven't been building coils for as long as I've had though, for a first timer I'd recommend an IGO-W or something else cheap.
I've always said it's as hard as building 2 kayfun's, and a kayfun is about as easy as it gets as far as rebuildable tank attys go.
I just pre-ordered a 4.1 so I'll let you guys know what I can do with it! I've been rebuilding my own coils for about a year and a half so I hope I can get it up and fogging pretty quickly!
I've been using M1.6 replacements on mine and it works perfectly (for the exact dimension and source, I have a blog entry on kayfun spare parts. I used the exact same screws for the kayfun posts)
ALTHOUGH, I have wondered if it's actually M2. But yeah. M1.6 works flawlessly and tightens fine.
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Also, what the hell happened to the good old days when ANYONE sucked at building an atty, they would all just acknowledge they're not sufficiently proficient at it and come on ECF to ask for advice and keep practicing?!
These days I just keep seeing people build on an atty like what? 5 or 10 times, fail and then crap on an atty.
Grumbles.
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These days I just keep seeing people build on an atty like what? 5 or 10 times, fail and then crap on an atty.
Grumbles.
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I learned on a fv2!
I wrote the thread on that bad boy and everyone was crying about it.
I wrote the thread on that bad boy and everyone was crying about it.
Yeh. Sorry if I sound like a .... in my previous post. I just find it weird and mildly annoying. ECF used to be filled with folks detailing the different iterations of builds and gettin help until everyone eventually nailed down the builds. And that was actually pretty fun and sorta educational. Now, so many just plop into a thread after trying a couple of builds and declare how much xxx or YYY sucks.
That said, the fogger v4 is (strictly IMO) a terrible atty to recommend to first time builders. Hahahaha.
On a related note, I'm wondering if what I'm doing is what someone else is too.
I leave both drill bits on both coils, and press the coils directly on top of the air hole. For me, I always position the leads to the left of the corresponding post, and wrap a full wrap around the post clockwise.
When I tighten the screws, it pretty much shortens each leads equally but a little bit, and in the process opens up the microcoil a little.
Then use the drill bits to lift each coil 1 or 1.5mm off the airhole, pulse fire and squish the coils together neatly again.
Works perfect for me, and ensures the leads on both coils are the same length so that they always fire up evenly.
I used to kinda float both drill bits off the deck at the start, but it would get all wonky and unequal when I tighten the leads.
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That said, the fogger v4 is (strictly IMO) a terrible atty to recommend to first time builders. Hahahaha.
On a related note, I'm wondering if what I'm doing is what someone else is too.
I leave both drill bits on both coils, and press the coils directly on top of the air hole. For me, I always position the leads to the left of the corresponding post, and wrap a full wrap around the post clockwise.
When I tighten the screws, it pretty much shortens each leads equally but a little bit, and in the process opens up the microcoil a little.
Then use the drill bits to lift each coil 1 or 1.5mm off the airhole, pulse fire and squish the coils together neatly again.
Works perfect for me, and ensures the leads on both coils are the same length so that they always fire up evenly.
I used to kinda float both drill bits off the deck at the start, but it would get all wonky and unequal when I tighten the leads.
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Allow me to disagree with you there. I know you don't want to here that, but I drilled a center post hole and made a whole new center post (thanks to my cheap Harbor Freight Lathe/Mill combo) with 2.2 mm air hole in it. I also drilled the side air hole to 2.5 mm.
With two flat ribbon NR-R-NR coils at 0.45 Ohms on the Mechanical Mod at about 50 Watts.
I'm not sure if a Fogger is better now...
That's a super uber user-modified kayfun though 
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