Fogger V4!!

[bsoplinger]

sorry guys i know this is a fogger thread but whats a good 4nine clone thats 1:1 with seamless threads and all that?

The 3rd revision ones Artemus sells are decent. On sale for $20 right now. Just got a black PVD coated one and its pretty seamless. He used to sell on eBay but has a site now: custommodcreations.com. My inexpensive pair (stainless steel and brass) from focalecig.com are decent but not totally seamless, its visible to the eye somewhat although I don't feel a junction between the sections with my fingers.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[awsum140]

I didn't think it was possible, but after using the Fogger on an ipv today, and running at 18 watts with a 2.1 ohm build, I like the Fogger even more....except for one minor detail. It is really, really, burning through liquid now, but all that flavor and vapor have to come from somewhere.

 

[noobbuilder]

I've got a fogger problem. No flavor. Wicked on rayon. HELP!!!!

 

[Tbev]

I've got a fogger problem. No flavor. Wicked on rayon. HELP!!!!

Post some pics.... Number one reason for lack of flavor is too much wick.... But really... Post some pics.

 

[BNEAT]

^what he said. Thin your tails!

 

[dynoman2002]

Pre-orders for the v5 have commenced on ebay!

 

[awsum140]

My Big Fogger came in yesterday's mail, a day early. I took it completely apart and ran it through the UC cleaner three times, once with Dawn, once with Efferdent and once with plain water and rinsed thoroughly after each cycle. The Efferdent did bring out some, what I think was, polishing media. There was some small grains of orange stuff around the base, so I am guessing it was trapped in the air channels.

It is definitely built for a 26650 mod, a lot bigger than a normal Fogger. The chimney, deck and glass are much bigger but are nicely proportioned so it doesn't look all that much different or out of proportion. I have it on an iPV and with the big drip tip on it the Big Fogger is taller than the iPV, I'd say about 75mm overall.

The coil screws are still a problem and are 3mm rather than 1.6mm. This adds another problem to them. The threads are coarser so the wires get into the threads which makes tightening up two coils even more tricky. I did add washers, which helped a little, but it is still tricky.

The insulator for the center post is two pieces. Next time I rebuild I want to check to see if the insulator from a regular Fogger will work. The overall build of the thing is not as good as the stock sized one. All the threads are rough and can be hard to start and tighten, the inconsistency leads to thinking it's tight enough when it's not. I thought I had it tight enough and it leaked like a sieve until I got the top cap actually tightened down enough, that's how bad the threading is.

The air flow is still a little restricted for me on this one. The channels seems to be under 2mm on the sides and the control ring is the same design as a regular Fogger. I'll be grinding off the smooth portions to improve the air flow and may drill out the air channels after that to get an easier draw.

I did a 30 gauge build that came in at .86 ohms and wicked it with cellulose. I'm running it at 22 watts on the iPV and it gives me a nic buzz in four hits. My biggest problem is that now all my other devices, Protanks, iClears, Nautilus and so on, just don't cut it anymore. I've turned into an RTA junkie!

 

[AMDTrucking]

Sorry, double post

 

[AMDTrucking]

My Big Fogger came in yesterday's mail, a day early. I took it completely apart and ran it through the UC cleaner three times, once with Dawn, once with Efferdent and once with plain water and rinsed thoroughly after each cycle. The Efferdent did bring out some, what I think was, polishing media. There was some small grains of orange stuff around the base, so I am guessing it was trapped in the air channels.

It is definitely built for a 26650 mod, a lot bigger than a normal Fogger. The chimney, deck and glass are much bigger but are nicely proportioned so it doesn't look all that much different or out of proportion. I have it on an iPV and with the big drip tip on it the Big Fogger is taller than the iPV, I'd say about 75mm overall.

The coil screws are still a problem and are 3mm rather than 1.6mm. This adds another problem to them. The threads are coarser so the wires get into the threads which makes tightening up two coils even more tricky. I did add washers, which helped a little, but it is still tricky.

The insulator for the center post is two pieces. Next time I rebuild I want to check to see if the insulator from a regular Fogger will work. The overall build of the thing is not as good as the stock sized one. All the threads are rough and can be hard to start and tighten, the inconsistency leads to thinking it's tight enough when it's not. I thought I had it tight enough and it leaked like a sieve until I got the top cap actually tightened down enough, that's how bad the threading is.

The air flow is still a little restricted for me on this one. The channels seems to be under 2mm on the sides and the control ring is the same design as a regular Fogger. I'll be grinding off the smooth portions to improve the air flow and may drill out the air channels after that to get an easier draw.

I did a 30 gauge build that came in at .86 ohms and wicked it with cellulose. I'm running it at 22 watts on the iPV and it gives me a nic buzz in four hits. My biggest problem is that now all my other devices, Protanks, iClears, Nautilus and so on, just don't cut it anymore. I've turned into an RTA junkie!

Welcome to the RBA, RTA, RDA junky club

1. The insulator of a Big Fogger is bigger then 22mm Fogger and I don't know where to get one other then making one yourself. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/545703-fogger-v4-294.html

2. Drilling the horizontal Air Holes to 2.4mm definitely improves it's performance (more ten cutting down the AFC ring) and to ease up coil building, you might consider drilling your wire posts. I have a Big Fogger in that picture: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/545703-fogger-v4-283.html

 

[awsum140]

Until I get a drill press drilling the posts will have to wait, but that would be the best solution. The other odd thing is that the screw in the positive post is very short.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Until I get a drill press drilling the posts will have to wait, but that would be the best solution. The other odd thing is that the screw in the positive post is very short.

And, it may NOT be made of Stainless Steel either. At least mine wasn't. Check it with your magnet and if it sticks....

I've got the earlier version of two Big Foggers with rusty screws, bad Positive Block, bad Insulator and 510 Threaded Connector was 6.4 mm instead of 6.9 mm. It then has been replaced by FrogInFog.com and they let me keep the bad ones too. I have four now instead of two.
Check this picture to compare which one you've got:

And here is how it threaded into my MOD being too thin:




And then, they made some improvements: (I received this picture form Frog)

The bad ones, I fixed by making new Insulators, replacing all M3.0-0.5 SS Screws and drilling wrong 510 connector off the base, press fitting a 7 mm plug and cutting new M7.0-0.5 threads (AKA 510 threads)

 

[Tbev]

Dude I drilled my 4.2 out so the horizontal holes were as big as the verts and with a 0.8 0hm build on it is too airy and killed the flavor, it's like I have to cover the holes while hitting partially to get it to suck juice. I have to clean up the threads and put the ruin back on.

 

[awsum140]

AMD, wish I had your machine skills and tools handy. Mine looks like the photos, but it was not rusty at all and threads very nicely into multiple devices so I think it is 510. That positive screw is a real killer though since it's so d*#& short. My positive block looks like yours but the center screw has a complete tube all the way around it. They may have either straightened out their production problems or actually be changing the machining in later production models. I would think they'd use as many of the same parts between versions as possible...but.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Little off topic again:

My Wolverine 19 ml Tank evolution has come to the end. I think.
It's not leaking anymore and vaping great at 0.3 Ω, at 45 Watts, much like my drippers.

The picture below shows it's entire evolution process:
1. Original deck.
2. New Air Holes.
3. New SS Center Positive Post. (Instead of Brass)
4. Redesigned dual hole Positive Post.
5. Air Jets added to prevent flooding..
6. Raised up dual hole Positive Post.

 

[Tbev]

What a fantastic job! I think the elevated chimney air intake tube is not only a fantastic job and idea but I'm calling it now, I think that is what everyone should start doing with all bottom entrance air holes. I'd love to have those on my magma. It would stop it from leaking and step it up big time, I might even use it if I had those, did you tap the holes n thread in or press fit? The magma v2 should definitely be done that way.

 

[Tbev]

And for the record I love the way this thread has evolved into the latest and greatest, tricked out customs. Keep impressing us brother!

 

[AMDTrucking]

What a fantastic job! I think the elevated chimney air intake tube is not only a fantastic job and idea but I'm calling it now, I think that is what everyone should start doing with all bottom entrance air holes. I'd love to have those on my magma. It would stop it from leaking and step it up big time, I might even use it if I had those, did you tap the holes n thread in or press fit? The magma v2 should definitely be done that way.

They are threaded M3.0 - 0.5mm. I'm glad you like it.
I've seen here on ECF somebody dremeled their Magma deck down leaving only two "Air Tubes" sticking up.
I'm sure that's what you are talking about. I'm thinking about milling mine too. But Stainless Steel is such a "Biatch" to machine... It's an end mill breaker.
I'm not entirely positive and, as I said, I did those tubes (jets) mainly to elevate my air holes, but I think I've stumbled onto something good here: It seems to me like because the stream of air is now directional and more compressed at the end where it blows on the coil, that the flavor is now more instance. Kind of like Kayfun Drip Tip sort of deal, like a garden hose with a nozzle . Or, maybe it is just my imagination, I don't know.

 

[Tbev]

Were on exactly the same page, I run a kf dt on my foggers for the same effect, I'm sure you've seen me recommend that to a lot of people.

 

[Tbev]

I wouldn't want to "deck" the deck around the hole BC t that would increase the volume under the cap. I like the idea of threading the holes and screwing the jets in.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Were on exactly the same page, I run a kf dt on my foggers for the same effect, I'm sure you've seen me recommend that to a lot of people.

I certainly have