Get a syringe if you don't have one already 
That's awesome! never thought about that!
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Fogger V4!!
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You can't use a syringe to fill the V4.3. The expanded build deck required them to move the fill hole. It's now under a ledge of the build deck and winds into the main chamber. You need a nipple top bottle to get a good seal when you squeeze e-liquid into it. I know there are pics of the bigger build deck around, just look at the path the liquid must take to flow into the Fogger and you'll see what I'm trying to describe.
Found the pics:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=13174188
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Found the pics:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=13174188
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
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Weird? I've filled mine twice from empty using a syringe!
And thanks to the poster who mentioned that the afc works at 50% and lower - I hadn't figured that out!
Has anyone experienced any issue with wicking in the newest version due to the juice channel inlet being so close to the tank? I don't imagine it having too much of an effect, but I could be wrong.
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Yes for me it is an issue. I'm using 70%-100% VG and even at 70% air bubbles stuck between the chamber and the glass forever, it's way way too thin IMO.
Lol. Mixed reviews it seems. Gonna wait for a couple of people to chime in before I throw in my 100% vg. Visually it seems like the allowance should be fine, but heck what do I know
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Wicking 100% VG isn't a problem at all in the latest version, I've completely emptied mine a couple of times already. Filling the damn thing is another thing altogether! I have a hell of a time getting 100%VG in my newest V4. If I force it in with a bottle it blows the wicks out of their channels, and if I use a syringe it simply comes right back out of the fill hole! Thinner juice isn't too bad to fill, I've actually done it without cursing!
I'm having this issue with my 50/50 e-liquid. What I got to work was patience. Just very slowly squeeze the nipple bottle. I let it take close to a minute to fill but my wicks stopped moving.
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I'm not placing the wick in the channels at all, my wicks are only on the deck with a teeny tiny tail close to the channel.
lol I gave up on the filling hole, I'm just taking the top cap off and filling straight to the glass tube.
OOOH ooh. What kind exactly? I checked and loctite has a range of adhesive/sealant. Not sure which would be safest.
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Neither do I, actually. My guess is that either the blue or the red high temp ones will do the work. I don't think they are edible but I'm certain they can be used in kitchen appliances safely.
I was able to buy the V4.2 from a U.S. vendor a week after I got the V4.3. Only noticeable benefit from 4.2 is I get more vape time out of it because of having more juice. (2 mil more?) A deceptive thing about the 4.3 is when your liquid level has gone slightly below where the glass section starts, the remaining liquid gets vaped sooo quickly because there's hardly any space there between the glass and chimney.
I was really surprised with the smaller deck difference of the 4.2 It looks much larger in pictures but is really tiny. I tend to always build 3/32 diameter coils and had to be more careful about my coils shorting on the chimney. Overall, happy with both purchases. At $32-35, these tanks are a great buy.
I was really surprised with the smaller deck difference of the 4.2 It looks much larger in pictures but is really tiny. I tend to always build 3/32 diameter coils and had to be more careful about my coils shorting on the chimney. Overall, happy with both purchases. At $32-35, these tanks are a great buy.
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I bought mine Here. Use Coupon Code "YEAHBABY" for 10% off. They're a few bucks more expensive than most which is why I think they have not sold out on the V4.2. With the Coupon Code it came out to around $36.00 and for a version that's not produced anymore, I was fine with paying $2-$3 dollars more. Before I purchased them, I e-mailed them asking if the V4.2 is the only version they have, and they said it was. So you don't need to worry about receiving a surprise V4.3.
I also saw it here. A little cheaper, but after I asked him to post pics of the deck, the positive block appears to be copper so I passed on this one.
Hope this helps you out.
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Adjusted and trimmed the wicks, per some good suggestions after I posted photos of my initial build.
This IS wicking better. No doubt.
I like to have a denser wad of cotton inside all my micro coils. I noticed that while the cotton DOES indeed expand when all juiced up, it will contract when it starts to get dry, like after a long hit. Or when chain vaping. Both of which I do frequently. This seems to work out very well for me.
and just to save anyone from having to dig back a few pages, here's what my wicks looked like at first:
This IS wicking better. No doubt.
I like to have a denser wad of cotton inside all my micro coils. I noticed that while the cotton DOES indeed expand when all juiced up, it will contract when it starts to get dry, like after a long hit. Or when chain vaping. Both of which I do frequently. This seems to work out very well for me.
and just to save anyone from having to dig back a few pages, here's what my wicks looked like at first:
Vaporbeast carries quite a selection of things practically no one else has. But as you remarked on, everything is a bit more expensive than other places. When I purchase there I think of it as a scarcity tax
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So... I'm back to using horizontal coil.
Also decided to follow what some folks have been doing and tried the following:
1) 5/64 inner diameter coils for v4.2
3) 2.4mm inner diameter coils for v4.3
The main difference is that I followed what some folks have been doing, and using significantly thicker wads of cotton. After screwing on the bottom chimney section, I push the cotton tails firmly but not tightly compacted at the juice channel, I.e. I have no cotton going down the vertical channel at all. Vapes perfectly fine, no gurgling or leaking whatsoever, and I can chain vape and push it at 30watts on a DNA and 50 watts on a mech no prob at all.
The main diff between the v4.2 and 4.3 build is that because the 4.2 has a way smaller build deck, i needed a small diameter coil so that I don't end up using too much cotton and end up blocking the air hole.
The other important thing that I learnt after my first failure was this: when you build a kayfun, you generally wanna leave the juice channel on the deck unobstructed or at least very very loosely wicked. However, doing so on a fogger will result in leaking. Now that I pack the cotton down firmly against the juice channel (NOT squish it tightly of course), not a drop of leaking, and the wicking keeps up no matter how hard you push it.
TL/DR: for higher wattage vaping, use fatter coils and cotton and pack wick tails firmly against channel but not squish it tight.
ETA: excited about this because couple of us were concerned about a solid vertical build due to limitations with wick thickness. If this works fine, then vertical coil wicking becomes a heck lot easier
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Also decided to follow what some folks have been doing and tried the following:
1) 5/64 inner diameter coils for v4.2
3) 2.4mm inner diameter coils for v4.3
The main difference is that I followed what some folks have been doing, and using significantly thicker wads of cotton. After screwing on the bottom chimney section, I push the cotton tails firmly but not tightly compacted at the juice channel, I.e. I have no cotton going down the vertical channel at all. Vapes perfectly fine, no gurgling or leaking whatsoever, and I can chain vape and push it at 30watts on a DNA and 50 watts on a mech no prob at all.
The main diff between the v4.2 and 4.3 build is that because the 4.2 has a way smaller build deck, i needed a small diameter coil so that I don't end up using too much cotton and end up blocking the air hole.
The other important thing that I learnt after my first failure was this: when you build a kayfun, you generally wanna leave the juice channel on the deck unobstructed or at least very very loosely wicked. However, doing so on a fogger will result in leaking. Now that I pack the cotton down firmly against the juice channel (NOT squish it tightly of course), not a drop of leaking, and the wicking keeps up no matter how hard you push it.
TL/DR: for higher wattage vaping, use fatter coils and cotton and pack wick tails firmly against channel but not squish it tight.
ETA: excited about this because couple of us were concerned about a solid vertical build due to limitations with wick thickness. If this works fine, then vertical coil wicking becomes a heck lot easier
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Adjusted and trimmed the wicks, per some good suggestions after I posted photos of my initial build.
This IS wicking better. No doubt.
I like to have a denser wad of cotton inside all my micro coils. I noticed that while the cotton DOES indeed expand when all juiced up, it will contract when it starts to get dry, like after a long hit. Or when chain vaping. Both of which I do frequently. This seems to work out very well for me.
and just to save anyone from having to dig back a few pages, here's what my wicks looked like at first:
I'm glad you took my suggestion the right way instead of getting ...... of, because my intention indeed was to help you improve your Fogger V4.3 vaping experience. For your next re-build, try to position your coils precisely above the air holes - you'll see what the difference that makes. Good job!
Because unlike Kayfun (which will generally work any which way you build it, unless you did something really wrong) this Fogger V4.3 has very little tolerance to user error. But when you get it right - it kicks Kayfun's .... Just think about it: The best Atomizer is the Dripper. Now look how you have your Fogger built? - Like a Dripper. Only, instead of having to drip every now and then, you have your cotton wicks constantly fed from the bottom through those juice channels. Therefore you've got the best of both Worlds. Only those channels are big enough to pass e-liquid through, but not big enough to have them stuffed with wicking material. Unlike in Aqua Tank and the Ithaka where you actually stuff your wicks in those channels. I actually re-built my Ithaka in the similar to Fogger fashion by leaving the vertical juice channels empty and it is performing on par with my Fogger now. The only concern is whether it will flood if left alone for a while. So far it hasn't because I close the Juice Control every time I leave it along.
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