Fogger V4!!

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AMDTrucking

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That sucks how high were you ( elevation ) when you wicked them?.

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I wicked them at home. Now I've dropped few hundreds of feet and they are starting to leak. I'm beginning to think that they are not going to replace Kayfuns and Taifuns...
 

HwyApostle

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You should see what kind of looks I get when I'm washing my rba's and rda's parts as well as my syringes and hypodermic needles in a public bathroom...

I'm sure I get the same looks.
Here is my little road vape stand. The rest are in the bunk just toppers no mods. I've retired my 4 geni's and my carto tanks for the most part.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1402230944.688442.jpg
Horrible pic but you get the idea.


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HwyApostle

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Thanks. BTW, I'm at 4200 feet altitude, in New Mexico and my Foggers are starting giving me dry hits more and more...

I get the same thing I run the 48 as well, doesn't matter what tank if it is a pressure system it will do this to some degree or another. The only fix I have found is to purge the tank about half way up or down. Running I-80 I can purge at Cheyenne and have no issues till I'm coming down out of SLC then I re purge. The only thing I have found that have no issues at all are geni's and BF setups. Of course full on dripping as well but that ain't that safe ;-). I have thought about a (top are of the tank) spring purge valve, have not followed it to concept. The billet box spring ball idea would work like a champ.


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Sptz

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I tried searching around the thread but couldn't find an answer so hopefully this hasn't been covered yet.

I'm having an issue with my v4 because the airflow ring doesn't unveil the whole of the airhole, only half of it, the ring itself has no holes in it when you twist it, it goes up and down to unveil the airhole. Anyone has this issue and knows if it's a design problem or is there a fix? Second of all, no matter how many cotton I put in there I only see bubbles coming out of one or two juice holes... I don't get it.. this last build I did has very little cotton, the wick is covering the top (just like you see in loaaads of Fogger v4 review videos) but just the top bit, not going halfway down the channel (I tried that already) and I'm getting a mix of wet and dry hit a lot of times...
You know it's not wicking well when you release the fire button and you can still hear that "ggghhhhhhhhhh" from the coil cooling down on semi-dry cotton...

Any suggestions?

Thankss
 

AmandaD

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I tried searching around the thread but couldn't find an answer so hopefully this hasn't been covered yet.

I'm having an issue with my v4 because the airflow ring doesn't unveil the whole of the airhole, only half of it, the ring itself has no holes in it when you twist it, it goes up and down to unveil the airhole. Anyone has this issue and knows if it's a design problem or is there a fix? Second of all, no matter how many cotton I put in there I only see bubbles coming out of one or two juice holes... I don't get it.. this last build I did has very little cotton, the wick is covering the top (just like you see in loaaads of Fogger v4 review videos) but just the top bit, not going halfway down the channel (I tried that already) and I'm getting a mix of wet and dry hit a lot of times...
You know it's not wicking well when you release the fire button and you can still hear that "ggghhhhhhhhhh" from the coil cooling down on semi-dry cotton...

Any suggestions?

Thankss

That's the design of the afc on the 4.3 - it's a bit of a pain, but you get used to it. I had the same problems using cotton. If you read back in the thread you'll see that many of us are using rayon, which certainly works much better for me. I had to rewick probably 20 times before I got this thing right!
 

TheKiwi

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One thing that I've been meaning to do once I have access to my drill and Dremel. Open up the airflow as much as possible. Mark out the area covering the air hole, and drill/slot that spot such that when you put the ring back on and open it fully, the airhole is fully open.

Another ghetto-rigging, but I can imagine it would work flawlessly. Probably gonna make sure you sand the ring to make sure no burring messes up the threading though.


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bsoplinger

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The bubble from just 1 airhole isn't a problem. It'd be almost impossible to distribute wicking so evenly in each of the 4 juice channels that the resistance to fluid flow would be equal. The one channel with the least resistance to flow therefore will be the channel where air moves out to let fluid flow in but the other 3 channels will still have fluid flowing through them. OTOH if you really screw up the wicking so that one channel is extremely different than the other 3, you'll be getting dry hits off one coil and know you've done something wrong.

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Jdbaker82

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So it was actually a design choice to block half of the airhole what the hell.....

Who here is using cotton with no dryhits and great results? I'm only seeing bubbles coming up from one air channel arrrrrrrrrrgh :'(

Damn so it's not as easy and bulletproof as the Kayfun doh!! I hope this thing isn't a huge pain in my azz to get to work right

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TheKiwi

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So it was actually a design choice to block half of the airhole what the hell.....

Who here is using cotton with no dryhits and great results? I'm only seeing bubbles coming up from one air channel arrrrrrrrrrgh :'(

LOL I'm pretty sure it was a design error; folks at yiloong probably overlooked the fact that they had to factor more height + threading to accommodate the vertical allowance for the AFC ring.

Also, I personally only get bubbles from 2 sides (cotton here). It's not an issue though; I always inspect my cotton wick when swapping out and I don't see any burn marks on the sides without bubbles.

Also I've given up on having no cotton in the channel. I get some leaking no matter what. I am however using a 2mm diameter coil with a ton of cotton (not squished though). What I'm doing is kinda just splitting the ends into 2 unequal halves. The bottom half feeds halfway into the vertical part of the channel, and the fatter half just sits above it (not in the channel). I've been vaping 2.5 tanks through it, 0.9 ohms, 28ga at 24 watts and have had no leaking and dry hits. So far so good!

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Sptz

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The bubble from just 1 airhole isn't a problem. It'd be almost impossible to distribute wicking so evenly in each of the 4 juice channels that the resistance to fluid flow would be equal. The one channel with the least resistance to flow therefore will be the channel where air moves out to let fluid flow in but the other 3 channels will still have fluid flowing through them. OTOH if you really screw up the wicking so that one channel is extremely different than the other 3, you'll be getting dry hits off one coil and know you've done something wrong.

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They're pretty much identical... this is pissing me off so badly. Has anyone tried just putting in the base cap with dried cotton and then shoving it into the top of the channels like a kayfun or something? Would that work?
 

AmandaD

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They're pretty much identical... this is pissing me off so badly. Has anyone tried just putting in the base cap with dried cotton and then shoving it into the top of the channels like a kayfun or something? Would that work?

That's what I do now that works for me. But, as I say, even that isn't foolproof - at least for me! But the last couple of tanks have worked well this way.
 

Sptz

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That's what I do now that works for me. But, as I say, even that isn't foolproof - at least for me! But the last couple of tanks have worked well this way.

I just did this and it seems to be working better SO FAR.

I did notice as well that the small white o-ring on the chimney get's completely obliterated every time I disassemble everything. It seems with this attie I never have that feeling of when's enough is enough when it comes to tightening the whole thing together...
 

AMDTrucking

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I get the same thing I run the 48 as well, doesn't matter what tank if it is a pressure system it will do this to some degree or another. The only fix I have found is to purge the tank about half way up or down. Running I-80 I can purge at Cheyenne and have no issues till I'm coming down out of SLC then I re purge. The only thing I have found that have no issues at all are geni's and BF setups. Of course full on dripping as well but that ain't that safe ;-). I have thought about a (top are of the tank) spring purge valve, have not followed it to concept. The billet box spring ball idea would work like a champ.


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Hmmmm... A Kayfun 3.1 spring loaded ball fill valve installed backwards in one of my top fill holes.... Hmmmmm..... I have a new project coming up... We'll call it an automatic excess pressure relive valve. Sounds fancy,
 
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AMDTrucking

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I tried searching around the thread but couldn't find an answer so hopefully this hasn't been covered yet.

I'm having an issue with my v4 because the airflow ring doesn't unveil the whole of the airhole, only half of it, the ring itself has no holes in it when you twist it, it goes up and down to unveil the airhole. Anyone has this issue and knows if it's a design problem or is there a fix? Second of all, no matter how many cotton I put in there I only see bubbles coming out of one or two juice holes... I don't get it.. this last build I did has very little cotton, the wick is covering the top (just like you see in loaaads of Fogger v4 review videos) but just the top bit, not going halfway down the channel (I tried that already) and I'm getting a mix of wet and dry hit a lot of times...
You know it's not wicking well when you release the fire button and you can still hear that "ggghhhhhhhhhh" from the coil cooling down on semi-dry cotton...

Any suggestions?

Thankss

1. If you want an airier draw and the AFC ring (fully open) is not enough for you - remove that dam ring and forget about it.
2. It is my humble opinion, that those juice channels are made to conduct juice flaw and therefore, I do not put any of my wicking material in them. I don't want to obstruct the streams of juice.
 

AMDTrucking

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One thing that I've been meaning to do once I have access to my drill and Dremel. Open up the airflow as much as possible. Mark out the area covering the air hole, and drill/slot that spot such that when you put the ring back on and open it fully, the airhole is fully open.

Another ghetto-rigging, but I can imagine it would work flawlessly. Probably gonna make sure you sand the ring to make sure no burring messes up the threading though.


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You forgot another "ghetto-rigging" you need to do: Because that AFC ring turns so easily and will come out of adjustment with your slots by itself, you need to make it a little bit more snug. Here is the cheapest way to do it: Squeeze it in your vise just a bit to make it a little bit oval. Done!
 

AMDTrucking

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So it was actually a design choice to block half of the airhole what the hell.....

Who here is using cotton with no dryhits and great results? I'm only seeing bubbles coming up from one air channel arrrrrrrrrrgh :'(

Do you care about the vape or the bubbles?

Those multiple small air bubbles have tendency of joining together, forming a single big bubble of air. That happens below your visible clear area.
How did you like these Bubble studies on a Sunday? LOL
 

AmandaD

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I've finally found the build that seems to work, thanks to you, AMDTrucking! The 'stuff it in the chimney' method. No worries about putting anything in the channels - wicks fine. I have learned, though, that there is such a thing as too much rayon, which will eventually choke the coil (although it may take a day to do this).

Oh, and I learned another thing - when I start to get dry hits, it's because I vaped the thing dry....LOL

Why oh why didn't they put in a top-fill screwhole, though? Is there a reason they thought a bottom-fill would be better?
 
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