Here is a real dripper for your amusement:
I bet that set up has some balls
Fogger V4!!
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I bet that set up has some balls
OMG it's a minor miracle I finally got it working.... And I cannot believe how little cotton I had to really use.... like literally 1/4 of what I use in my kayfun I wish someone would have been a little more specific with how little cotton you need mmmmgood Lord it's like no cotton
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Maybe in the small deck original version but there is no way with the big deck version. big deck version has wide open airflow as much as u can handle
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Just curious AMD... Why does one side have 6 wraps when the other has 5? I mean if that works for you then great, but wouldn't it be better to have them both the same resistance?
And glad to hear you got it working for you jdbaker
If you're anything like me then this atty working properly just obliterated all the others ^_^
And glad to hear you got it working for you jdbaker
If you're anything like me then this atty working properly just obliterated all the others ^_^
So I built a 1.4ohm 32ga build did my dad's fogger v4 with silica because he doesn't know how to do anything besides hand it to me and go "is broke, fix it, hurry" and it's been since I posted the pics of that I dunno not to long but I hate silica, I did it BC it was supposed to give him milage and me relaxation, today I got it handed to me and it was so nasty I couldn't dry burn the junk off I could barely after soaking for hours get the silica out, so I decided to make a mesh setup, using existing coils that fit 2mm silica, I hate mesh, it's finiky and stupid but it worked!
I didn't think it would or I would have taken pics, I've been test driving it for the last few hours and it's great, do I need to dry burn every HOW MANY ML? Or will it just keep working till something pops or something else bad happens.
Please help me with maintenance of mesh build on Fogger v4, much appreciated.
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I didn't think it would or I would have taken pics, I've been test driving it for the last few hours and it's great, do I need to dry burn every HOW MANY ML? Or will it just keep working till something pops or something else bad happens.
Please help me with maintenance of mesh build on Fogger v4, much appreciated.
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I got two new v4s on Monday. The 4.0, but with really miniscule vertical channels. Clones I'm guessing (weird), as they come with a metal tank section in addition to the glass one, and have a slightly different top chimney part than the black 4.1 I got from fasttech. Was impossible to avoid dry hits due to the almost nonexistent vertical channels. Was readying to dremel out the changes channels but tried kayfun style wicking first. A little leakage from the airholes directly after filling, but ok after that. Has anyone else tried kayfun style wicking in the smaller deck v4?
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I use tots of cotton and it is working like a charm:
this is big deck???? Mine would run dry so quick if I used that much cotton... mine must have a defective vacuum or something
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anyone have any ideas why I might not be getting vacuum because I have to use about 1/8th of the amount of cotton as the above picture which didn't seem right to me anyway
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Sounds like the $22 ones I asked about a few days ago. Tiny vertical channels and came with the metal tank in addition to the standard Pyrex / glass tank.
I'll try the link again, last time folks said the link was bad:
http://focalecig.com/Product/Fogger-V4-Style2-5mL-Rebuildable-Atomizerblack-19386
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Work it through with this: focalecig......com
They appear to come with a steel tank as well as the glass one.
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Kind of late...says 4.0 on the tank cover, I want to see the review of the one that says Fogger 4.1
I bought mine from Desire ecig, shortly before Focal ecig got them (lost a whopping 2.79 per Fogger, how will I survive
). They look fairly identical. Work fine with the kayfun wicking style. I thought I'd like the metal tubes, but it sucks that you can't check how much liquid you have left. I'm using Aqua pmma tanks as I feel uncomfortable with breakable glass tanks.Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Gah! You're right!
Took my AFC ring off and it vapes pretty much exactly the same as it fully turned open.
Thanks for saving me time with the power tools; who knows what potential mishaps could've happened
ETA: anyone tried drilling the air holes out? Comparing the deck hole size and the side airholes, it seems to me there's a lot of potential for the side holes to be opened up more. I find that at wide open, the airflow is loose, but not quite enough for a satisfying lung hit
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I thought about trying that, but I was afraid I would reduce the negative pressure/siphoning effect in the tank, and possibly cause the coils to run dry. I sorta' fixed my air flow issue by coil/wick placement. I noticed that my V4.3 (larger deck version) had a looser draw than my V4.2, even though the AFC ring, air holes, and 28ga x 2.2mm coil are exactly the same on both tanks. So I figured the restriction must be in the smaller chamber. I centered the coil in the area allowed with the chamber base installed, and I made absolutely positive that there was no wick material on either side of the coil, allowing as much air flow around the coil as possible. Believe it or not, that actually made the draw almost identical on both tank...not exactly loose, but acceptable enough for me.
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Just curious AMD... Why does one side have 6 wraps when the other has 5? I mean if that works for you then great, but wouldn't it be better to have them both the same resistance?
And glad to hear you got it working for you jdbaker
The number of wraps really does make no difference. You see, I first cut two identical pieces of Kanthal based on Ohms per Inch table. I know my resistance before I wrap the coils. Then I weld non-resistant silver leads to both ends of my Kanthal. Then I wrap my coils knowing that at whatever diameter or number of wraps will not matter. I just target the shape of the coil and it's size. Some times I would wrap an extra turn or two of my non-resistant wire just to make my coil a little more sturdy. Not to mention that non-resistant wire leads are much easier to work with while attaching them under the screw posts or threading them through the post holes. Also, this NR-R-NR method completely eliminates a "Hot Leg" issue and non-resistant wires make much better electrical connection with the posts.
Example: 0.8mm x 0.1mm A1 Kanthal flat ribbon has 5.27 Ohms per Foot resistance. To make my build at 0.5 Ohm, I will need two 2.28 Inch pieces of Kanthal. (5.27 / 12 = 0.439 Ohm/Inch. 1.0 Ohm / 0.439 = 2.2779.... rounded to 2.28 Inches)
As you can see here, even if I made one of my coils at 6 wraps and the other in a single giant loop, their resistance is going to be identical. Of course, their inductance is different, but at DC 4.2 Volts the inductance could be ignored. I don't have to go into explanation of the benefits of using the Flat Ribbon wire versus Round wire, it is very obvious - Flat Ribbon has MUCH more surface area to vaporize e-liquid then Round wire at MUCH smaller size of wire. 0.8mm Flat Ribbon has its resistance and mass approximately of 28 Gauge wire, but its surface area is of a 24 or even 22 Gauge. Without all that extra current running through 22 Gauge to power it up.
I'm going to stop right there before I will begin to sound like infomercial.
I hope that answers your question.
Mike.
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