It is a soft silicone O-Ring (or what ever is left of it) Just take a needle and scratch it out of there - I won't make any difference.
Fogger V4!!
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It is a soft silicone O-Ring (or what ever is left of it) Just take a needle and scratch it out of there - I won't make any difference.
Good luck!
Do realize that the channels on the authentics are pretty damn small to begin with. Has a pretty tight fit with a 1/16 drill bit. That's a pretty good gauge of whether it's the right size or not.
Keen to see your results if you do Dremel it tho! I'm looking to buy my first whole set of Dremel just so that I can start messing with my attys, and opening up the channels is top of my list.
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I may pick up those clones as it has the deck I prefer, except that top chimney piece. Not to worried about the non copper contact though. How do they perform to the yiloong? Also AFC doesn't matter to me as I vape my 4.2 and 4.3 without them anyway. I was gonna get the 4.4 from froginfog, but was on the fence on the raised deck as it prevents you from vaping the tank dry as you can do with any of the revisions before 4.3.
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Question for Fogger experts:
What is the difference between the Fogger 4.0.4.1,4.2,4.3 and 4.4? And since most of these vendors just say they are selling the Fogger v4, hope you dont have to ask them which one it is?
Also is there a bad Fogger in the 4 version that is cloned to be wary of?
Thanks will be listening, have a great weekend......
What is the difference between the Fogger 4.0.4.1,4.2,4.3 and 4.4? And since most of these vendors just say they are selling the Fogger v4, hope you dont have to ask them which one it is?
Also is there a bad Fogger in the 4 version that is cloned to be wary of?
Thanks will be listening, have a great weekend......
Hey, dude, not necessarily. Not all Stainless Steel is NON-magnetic. Ferritic and martensitic stainless steels are magnetic. All depends on the manner of manufacturing. Cold welding and other processes can increase magnetic capability in SS.
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Right, but these ones are beginning to darken when in e-liquid. Does the SS do that?
I kinda doubt you're going to find 400 series Stainless fasteners in a $20 Chinese clone of a $30 Chinese atty
I second this fact. Steel (and thereby stainless steel) by definition has iron. Iron can be magnetized. even heat can magnetize iron, such as when my coils become magnetized after heating. Plus, I can stick magnets to my stainless steel refrigerator, so that alone should prove this point.
That really depends on your e-liquid and the flavorings in it. Stainless steel, even the most rust resistant, will still rust in the presence of acidic fluid (might be in any citrus flavoring). SS can also darken due to heat.
AMDtrucking, pay no attention to the metallurgist in the group. (They're absolutely right on all accounts), but you're right, those cheapass screws aren't Stainless! The idea of stainless in Vape hardware is to reduce the risk of contaminants in your juice and vapor. Those screws and washers obviously aren't doing that.
Even my Mad Murdock's Radiator Pluid (the coil killer of all fluids) hasn't rusted or discolored any of my "stainless" hardware
Even my Mad Murdock's Radiator Pluid (the coil killer of all fluids) hasn't rusted or discolored any of my "stainless" hardware
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I would advise anyone who notices rust spots on their equipment to quit using it. Cheap stainless steel (especially Chinese) can have abnormal amounts of carbon left in it that will cause rust spots.
I'm having the opposite problem of you guys...I'm getting flooding through air holes...I guess I need more cotton...or larger coil..
lol... let's trade half our fogger with each other and maybe our problem will be solved..... I have come to the conclusion something is not machined right on mine or something isn't sealing properly I cannot get vacuum to the chamber and mine will never ever leak... I don't know what it's like to be flooded or gurgle on the fogger :/
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Post pics, that's how we fix things here.
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Am I right in thinking that shorting problems have been sorted in V4s?, and are they really better than Kayfun in performance.
I don't. I don't have a spectrum analyzer to be able to correctly identify this questionable metal from China. I just use a low-tech non scientific, century old method of metal workers and machinists of all Countries: That is to take it to the grinder and look at the spark.
My 84 year old father was a tool and die maker back in USSR and he taught me this method, and it never failed.
When I grinded those screws, the spark was Bright Yellow Snow flake like spark. Let's ask those metallurgist what does that mean?
But regardless, if I even suspect a part of my vaping device is not made out of SS - I don't want to use it. I would rather replace it with the one I know, for sure is made out of 304 Stainless Steel, just for my own piece of mind. Call me "...." if you will, but that's the way I am.
And Binigo, if you are reading this: The screws I installed in your Fogger's top cap are 100% Food Grade 304 Stainless Steel. And I did use machine oil while tapping those threads, but I then removed it using lemon/lime dishwasher soap and a lot of running hot water. I really would like to know how did you like it?
I wouldn't call you anything but CORRECT my friend.
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