IIRC, dual 6 wraps of 28 around a purple luer-lock needle 16 gauge, usually comes out around .5ohm. Should be 8.4 amps on a freshly charged battery. Wicked with rayon, 50/50 or 40/60 pg/vg, hits great, no dry hits.
Fogger V4!!
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IIRC, dual 6 wraps of 28 around a purple luer-lock needle 16 gauge, usually comes out around .5ohm. Should be 8.4 amps on a freshly charged battery. Wicked with rayon, 50/50 or 40/60 pg/vg, hits great, no dry hits.
I've fixed my bad Big Fogger that had wrong 510 size connector.
And built it at 0.4 Ohms with 0.8mm X 0.1mm Flat Ribbon with NR-R-NR (Non resistant leads)
At about 34 Watts, it vapes pretty good 6 MG Nicotine "Dripping juice" at 70% VG
And built it at 0.4 Ohms with 0.8mm X 0.1mm Flat Ribbon with NR-R-NR (Non resistant leads)
At about 34 Watts, it vapes pretty good 6 MG Nicotine "Dripping juice" at 70% VG
AMD - Really good stuff - Really appreciate it!
I've fixed my bad Big Fogger that had wrong 510 size connector.
And built it at 0.4 Ohms with 0.8mm X 0.1mm Flat Ribbon with NR-R-NR (Non resistant leads)
At about 34 Watts, it vapes pretty good 6 MG Nicotine "Dripping juice" at 70% VG
I don't understand something:
Why don't you guys like to use Kanthal Flat Ribbon wire?
Just think about it: "0.6 mm X 0.1mm has approximately the same resistance as 30 Gauge Kanthal round wire, but the surface area (that is touching your wick) is the same as 24 Gauge. Without all that extra power needed to heat up the 24 Gauge"
It heats up much faster, like 30 Gauge but produces much like 24 Gauge. The best of both Worlds.
For those Big Foggers I used 0.8mm ribbon that has the resistance and performance of 28 Gauge but the surface heating area of 20 Gauge.
Am I the only one that uses Flat Bibbon?
Why don't you guys like to use Kanthal Flat Ribbon wire?
Just think about it: "0.6 mm X 0.1mm has approximately the same resistance as 30 Gauge Kanthal round wire, but the surface area (that is touching your wick) is the same as 24 Gauge. Without all that extra power needed to heat up the 24 Gauge"
It heats up much faster, like 30 Gauge but produces much like 24 Gauge. The best of both Worlds.
For those Big Foggers I used 0.8mm ribbon that has the resistance and performance of 28 Gauge but the surface heating area of 20 Gauge.
Am I the only one that uses Flat Bibbon?
I got some Ribbon wire 0.5x0.1 I think when everyone started playing with it but I didn't like how flimsy and prone to kinks it was but I think I got really thin stuff I dunno, I'd like to try the thicker stuff just never have, also its a pita to mount leads w/o tacking round nr leads isn't it?
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0.5mm x 0.1mm is like 31 Gauge, it has 9.2 Ohm/Foot - Yes, it is a pretty thin stuff. But I bet, if you put this stuff in your Fogger instead of 30 Gauge and use it on your Provari at 1.3 - 1.5 Ohms - you are going to be impressed with the performance it will put out. And how little power does it need to heat up your wick and how quickly does it do it.
And, yes it makes it easier to work with when you have non resistant leads welded to it, but it is not required.
+1 on that. I have more than a thousand feet of 0.5 x 0.1, 0.6 x 0.07, 0.6 x 0.1 and 0.7 x 0.1. But I use it primarily for my different twisted wires.
I personally find that ribbon wires are flimsier, and doesn't last through as many rewicking as a regular kanthal coil. I always end up mangling them while rewicking, especially on the thinner 0.5
And capturing the leads on posts like the fogger's is a mighty PITA. although that can be solved by twisting it tight.
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So you twist the legs to get them as round as you can then mount.?
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I'd love to use it but without NR-R-NR welding it seems like a huge pita to use.
On a related note, I just got a Magma RDA clone from Fasttech. Looks gorgeous, and easy to use and wick, but when I build it just like my Fogger (0.8 - 1.0 ohm microcoil) the flavor is definitely worse than the Fogger V4 with the same juice. Probably I'll have to build it differently, but I wonder if it is even worth it to pursue drippers after the Fogger?
Yup! I leave the drill bit inside my ribbon wire coil, then just pinch the leads and twist them till they become roundish.
The important thing is to make sure you use your other hand to pinch down on the point where the coil transitions into the leads, otherwise twisting the leads will mangle up the coil itself. If that makes any sense?
Regardless, I still rather not use ribbon mainly because it's too flimsy.
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I quite a few different drippers, 6 in total, I just got the fogger on Saturday, and maybe it's because it's new, but I would take the fogger over any of my drippers, the flavor is on par to a dripper, but I get a lot more vapor from the fogger, even though the drippers and fogger have the same builds, micro coils coming out at 0.5ohms, the fogger is a winner
The box looks like what my Fogger came in. Seems to be the original version. And missing the screw in the 510 connector. I no longer have my original version, just the large deck, so I can't compare to your pics but just my memory.
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Small deck, def not 4.3
There is an oblong air hole on the AFC ring, so def not the 4.2 or 4.4 (official 4.1).
So.... It's either the very very first model that came out or it's a clone.
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There is an oblong air hole on the AFC ring, so def not the 4.2 or 4.4 (official 4.1).
So.... It's either the very very first model that came out or it's a clone.
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Yeah I don't know what the very first model looked like but that chimney is queer, Yiloong puts a holographic sticker on every box I've seen / purchased. If I had to guess I'd call it a clone, I didn't really think they would Clone a 30 dollar atty. Unless you got a batch for under ten bucks each, like $6.00. The deck looks the same as the deck until they changed it to the large deck.
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Two thinks give them up as non genuine YiLoong product:
1. No 510 center screw (Cupper or Stainless)
2. The shape of the Chimney is not YiLoong's style.
I'm going to guess that they are clones unless, of course YiLoong just came up with a new revision 4.5 which is unlikely.
1. No 510 center screw (Cupper or Stainless)
2. The shape of the Chimney is not YiLoong's style.
I'm going to guess that they are clones unless, of course YiLoong just came up with a new revision 4.5 which is unlikely.
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I hope someone clones it with better build quality.
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Yeah that's gonna happen,, their problem is with quality control really, I haven't had any problems and I have 5 of them. I prefer Fv4 as far as build quality to any kf.
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Here is a new Fast Tech Cartel Stillare in 28.5 mm size, I just received today.
First of all, it has very typical Fast Tech quality: Bunch of burrs and shavings. Also two out of the three Post screws were already stripped. I had to replace them with my handy M2.5 - 0.40 Stainless Steel screws from Amazon.com. The original ones were made out of NON stainless steel and they were M2.0 - 0.35. I had to drill the posts and re-thread them. While applying very little pressure tapping new threads, the Positive Post turned around and one of the Negative ones came out of the base. After putting it all back together and building a 0.26 Ohms with 24 Gauge Kanthal and Cotton. It vapes nice. Tons of Vapor and Flavor. But I don't like it's MPG. It holds a lot of liquid due to it's size and the amount of cotton I've stuffed there. I'm going to guess close to 1.0 ML. But I would take three or four puffs and it is all dry. Time to drip again, and I don't mean drip, pour liquid in it.
First of all, it has very typical Fast Tech quality: Bunch of burrs and shavings. Also two out of the three Post screws were already stripped. I had to replace them with my handy M2.5 - 0.40 Stainless Steel screws from Amazon.com. The original ones were made out of NON stainless steel and they were M2.0 - 0.35. I had to drill the posts and re-thread them. While applying very little pressure tapping new threads, the Positive Post turned around and one of the Negative ones came out of the base. After putting it all back together and building a 0.26 Ohms with 24 Gauge Kanthal and Cotton. It vapes nice. Tons of Vapor and Flavor. But I don't like it's MPG. It holds a lot of liquid due to it's size and the amount of cotton I've stuffed there. I'm going to guess close to 1.0 ML. But I would take three or four puffs and it is all dry. Time to drip again, and I don't mean drip, pour liquid in it.
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I almost threw that in on my last fasttech order glad I didn't, got a quasar Clone instead, it's flawless. Great flavor, small chamber, and the air slots are great no need to drill out.... Or tap, that would piss me right off.... Looks good tho.
I've seen somebody talk about fixing bad posts by using the slightly heavier pitch M2.5-0.40 screws to replace the original M2.5-0.35 (or is it -0.30) to repair various atomizers. I'll assume it was you. A few questions...
Do you get replacement screws in the original pitch but with heads more conducive to our needs, ie flat bottoms to trap wire better from Amazon also?
Do you tap the higher pitch in the post or just force in the screw?
You've mentioned going up a size when posts are badly mangled. I'm pretty sure you have to tap these. Again, did you get tap and screws from Amazon?
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