Fogger V4!!

[SkvLTD]

Maybe "too much" pressure on the o rings? Too tight and it might leak. Lets hope it's either that or a dud, or at least fixable.

Because I ordered one too



I'm just asking about what a dual mesh is. Does the mesh go into the coils? Hard to find info about these wick setups.

Yep. Wick it using SS mesh instead of burny materials like cotton or silica.

 

[DejayRezme]

Yep. Wick it using SS mesh instead of burny materials like cotton or silica.

Oh. At first I was like "this guy likes being cryptic". Then I was like "Oh this guy has an excellent tutorial in his signature!".
Thanks man! Gonna try this out for sure. Hope my fogger comes tomorrow.

 

[Shofixti]

This is good news. I love my Fogger V2. I actually don't mind the single coils setup but options are a plus. Definitely going to pick one of these up. The Fogger is the best on the go rebuildable piece that has a glass tank.

The glass tank was a big selling point for me too.

 

[SkvLTD]

I think it is for all of us besides the price point.

 

[350ZMO]

The V4 is much improved and I really like the vape even better than the Nautilus. There are two airflow holes in the ring that are elongated so you can rotate the ring to tighten the draw. Mine came pre wicked and coiled but way too low resistance for my vamo. After recoiling and wicking with silica the vaping produces sic amounts of vapor that taste really good. I moved the wick lower on the sides to shorten the distance from the wick holes to the coil ie less wick length. This also puts the coils closer to being directly over the air holes one for each side/coil. Mine came with extra orings, seals, small Philips screw driver, extra kanthal (wrong gauge for me), screws and silica wick. I washed all with vodka and water.

Pros: great vapor production taste and throat hit, glass tank, adjustable air flow, bottom dual coil fairly easy to rebuild, adjustable 510 center post extra orings and seals.

Cons: threads are scratchy, bottom screw fill hole, holds less eliquid than nautilus and wobbly drip tip.

Tips: lower the coils, put a little juice on them to help them stay in the grooves when screwing on the chimney. Chimney is actually two pieces so you can screw on the bottom part look inside and make some adjustments to coil alignment so it doesn't touch sides or posts if necessary.

Recommended improvements: The design is really almost there for me. Need a top fill port with stopper not screw - pretty sure I can make that modification myself with a small drill and drill press. Tighten the drip tip hole. Adjustment air ring is not too loose but could loosen over time. Since it uses elongated holes on the ring for flow control, detents like on the nautilus wouldn't work so an adjustable air flow with detents and different size holes would be better i think ie more like the nautilus. Cut better threads. Instead of Philips coil screws, would like to see spring loaded. Now I'm just getting picky. Maybe narrow down the center post platform.

Love the Fogger V4. Huge cloud of dense cool vapor. No leaks or flooding or dry hits on mine yet. Aesthetics to me are good, stainless steel and glass, has fogger and v4 logos.

Not that it needs it but I got to thinking about modifying the chimney for a vortex/swirling action. Old trick on engine intakes and used in vacuums today. But like I said, not that it needs it just could be a cool idea, vortex could increase volume flow rate and mix.

 

[reeftivo]

received mine yesterday and tried a few builds on it last night. First build was 2 x 28g kanthal 10/11 wraps (5/64 bit) total of .8ohms with cotton.
My wire length was inconsistent, so one side was firing first and hotter than the other. Second build was .9ohms with the same wraps but I evened the wires and lowered them closer to the air holes. Too much cotton in the channels (1st hit great then dry hits). Third build is much better with less cotton but still getting dry hits if chain vaping. I'm getting close but gave up last night after it got too late in the evening.

I'll report back tonight after I try a smaller bit to wrap on and lessen the cotton even more. I ordered mine from sweetvapes and it is pretty nice. Very rough looking brushed stainless compared to my original KFL+ and TFGT but still very nice. No real flaws I can see other than the fill screw is a little grindy when screwing in or out. All other threading is very smooth and this thing hasn't leaked a drop-Nice!

 

[pmcode]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on sweetvapes, as well. I must say, so far I am very impressed. Ordered @ 1:25pm, received tracking number @ 1:44pm. If it actually goes out tonight and I see an actual status update sometime tomorrow, I gotta give major kudos to those guys.

Here's to eagerly awaiting the vapemail. Now my 2 V2s and my V3 are gonna get jealous.

 

[reeftivo]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on sweetvapes, as well. I must say, so far I am very impressed. Ordered @ 1:25pm, received tracking number @ 1:44pm. If it actually goes out tonight and I see an actual status update sometime tomorrow, I gotta give major kudos to those guys.

Here's to eagerly awaiting the vapemail. Now my 2 V2s and my V3 are gonna get jealous.

Oh ya! Mine arrived in three days! NICE!

Let us know how your first builds go. I cant wait to leave the office here and get home to continue the builds. I will suggest "less is more" if you are going to use cotton. I have some german silica I may also try if I cant get the cotton quite right. Its pretty easy to build! Pyrex could be about a millimeter thicker but it's a really nice device for the price.

happy vaping

 

[csantiago1911]

Todd's review of Fogger V4:

The FOGGER v4 - YouTube

 

[SkvLTD]

Gotta add that as long as that AFC is pretty much hollow and air goes straight to deck holes, then it sounds quite perfect. V2-3 was annoying as hell at times having to tweak that center stem if you ever wanted to open up the air chamber for some cleaning.

 

[EDO]

With my Fogger V4 the airflow control works pretty darn good. You can make the draw as tight or loose as you want it. In closed position absolutely no air comes through....so I don't know why in Todds review he was able to vape with the AFC completely closed. The set up is very easy and it works very similar to the Aqua. It vapes just as fabulous as the Aqua but it has more than double the liquid capacity. You can see your juice unlike the Aqua. The only draw back to the Fogger v4 is that you have to drain it before opening it up to replace the wicks (similar to the kayfun). And you need a screwdriver to be able to fill it up. However, filling it up is very fast and easy. In short this is a very good atomizer.

 

[DejayRezme]

I got my Fogger V4 yesterday but my main problem is that my rebuilding skills are really aweful lol. I made some kind of coil wrapped around 3 strands of 1mm ekowool and ended up with a huge Afro of silica... But I mushed it in there and it vapes big time.

I made 8 wraps of 30ga Kanthal A1 in a uneven micro coil lookalike. It came out as 0.9 ohms and glows rather evenly. My Seven-22 needs to fire them at a minimum of 15 watts and the hole Fogger gets pretty hot with continued operation. Is that normal for low ohm dual coil?

The wick holes look pretty big, so I think a 1-2mm ss roll should fit in there. Haven't tried yet.

My rims of my glass tank also look slightly "chipped". So far it doesn't affect leakage though.

The stainless steel doesn't look too great on mine, maybe it's because I cooked mine in water to get rid of the oil smell. But there are a lot of "imperfections" on the Fogger V4. The lower part of the chimpey also has a tiny dent. So build quality isn't awesome, but for 30 bucks. My Kaifun clone has better build quality though.


I had huge problems positioning the coils and then screwing the wires tight, when screwing tight they always pull on the legs and draw the coil out of place... any advice for this? Maybe I should wrap micro coils and put wick in after screwing them tight. This makes placement of the coils really awkward for me. Any tips?


I also have the problem (on all my rebuildables) that when I dry burn them after putting the ekowool wick in, they smell and taste horribly. One solution is to never dry burn, but why doesn't this happen when dry burning manufactured heads on an Aerotank? Should I just avoid to dry burn or do I have to rinse the coils after dry burning? Or are these dry hits?

 

[SkvLTD]

The only draw back to the Fogger v4 is that you have to drain it before opening it up to replace the wicks (similar to the kayfun). And you need a screwdriver to be able to fill it up. However, filling it up is very fast and easy. In short this is a very good atomizer.

IMO that's almost a given on a non-genny, and both Kayfun and Fv4 are very, very easy to drain fully. The v2-3 were such PITAs given that step in the glass tank....

 

[SkvLTD]

I also have the problem (on all my rebuildables) that when I dry burn them after putting the ekowool wick in, they smell and taste horribly. One solution is to never dry burn, but why doesn't this happen when dry burning manufactured heads on an Aerotank? Should I just avoid to dry burn or do I have to rinse the coils after dry burning? Or are these dry hits?

Now, why would you ever dry burn a material that's prone to getting burnt dry? Test your coils before you wick everything and it will run as it should. Only time you'd dry burn is to clean them when changing wicks or on SS mesh builds to find and remove hot spots. And trust me, all the clearos get real worn if you dry burn them too much, and will taste like s@#$. They do so slower because those coils are tiiiiiiny compared to RBA ones.

 

[DejayRezme]

Now, why would you ever dry burn a material that's prone to getting burnt dry?

Because nobody told me not to? Ok thanks, lesson learned. But it must be the silica itself that is getting burned? Strange.

Anyway I made a new build, 30ga Kanthal A1 10 wraps micro coil around a 1.4 mil screw driver, had much less problems installing the coils and pulled a 1mm ekowool through it. The ekowool is probably a bit loose in there. Coils came out at 0.8 ohm this time. Vapes like a beast! The airflow can be adjusted very precisely, from airy draw to basically shut. But the ring is very loose, will have to put a piece of plumbers tape or something in there.

Also I need better juice, only have vanilla PG liquid left that tastes like nothing. And lower nicotine juice because this much vapor hits too hard for me at the min of 15 watts, since my Seven-22 can't reduce voltage. Or just use thinner wire or more coils hmm. The vape at 15 watts is also very warm. Also I think I still have a tiny bid of machine oil left in there and need to soak and boil it again. I hate having to even think about cleaning stuff over and over like this :/ Or maybe I just need to vape on it a little longer.

I have yet to attempt the stainless steel roll wick too.

 

[EDO]

IMO that's almost a given on a non-genny, and both Kayfun and Fv4 are very, very easy to drain fully. The v2-3 were such PITAs given that step in the glass tank....

Well the Taifun-GT, the Rose, the Squape are bottom coil RBAs that you don't have to drain to rewick. Also with these atties you don't need a screwdriver to fill them. Its not the biggest drawback that you can't do that with the Fogger v4 but it is a drawback. However, with the fogger v4 you get a glass tank that most Kayfun type atties don't have and you get complete airflow control. I mean you can make this as hard or loose of a draw you want. It really is a great atty.

 

[DejayRezme]

Well the Taifun-GT, the Rose, the Squape are bottom coil RBAs that you don't have to drain to rewick. Also with these atties you don't need a screwdriver to fill them. Its not the biggest drawback that you can't do that with the Fogger v4 but it is a drawback. However, with the fogger v4 you get a glass tank that most Kayfun type atties don't have and you get complete airflow control. I mean you can make this as hard or loose of a draw you want. It really is a great atty.

I guess it's harder with a glass tank... the only one I know of is the nautilus and aerotank (not RBA of course). But you'd need a steel ring enclosure above and below the glass tank and have the chimney fixed on the upper part so it doesn't come loose when unscrewing.

 

[350ZMO]

I had huge problems positioning the coils and then screwing the wires tight, when screwing tight they always pull on the legs and draw the coil out of place... any advice for this? Maybe I should wrap micro coils and put wick in after screwing them tight. This makes placement of the coils really awkward for me. Any tips?

That's why I prefer spring loaded posts. Use twezzers to hold the legs when tightening.

15 watts is quite a bit of power I run mine at 8 to 10 gets a tad warm but by no means hot.

If you have some 32 or 34 kanthal try 8 wraps of that, will increase the resistance and the 722 should regulate a tad lower.

I learned dry burning is hoopla. I preburn the kanthal wire before wrapping then run through my fore finger and thumb to feel for kinks nicks or discontinuities if there are then cut those out. After wrapping visually inspect coils to ensure the wraps are evenly spaced and no loops are touching.

Soak wick and all parts in alcohol - ethyl like vodka ever clear or moonshine never use isopropyl nor methyl. shake or swirl let air dry. That will remove the oils and is the point of dry burn for wicking. If you ever try cotton get the organic non bleached if not you have to boil it.

Not all ecowool or silica is the same. I have bought some that if you hit it with a torch it turns black and other that doesn't. Soak in alcohol then try it. Some has oils in it. Not sure why. Alcohol will remove the oils and it won't turn black.

 

[csantiago1911]

That's why I prefer spring loaded posts. Use twezzers to hold the legs when tightening.

What RBA's have spring loaded posts?

 

[csantiago1911]

IMO that's almost a given on a non-genny, and both Kayfun and Fv4 are very, very easy to drain fully. The v2-3 were such PITAs given that step in the glass tank....

How would one fully drain the Fogger v4 easily?

It looks like one would need to invert the atomizer, and use a syringe to draw the liquid out through the bottom fill port. Is there another way?