Fogger V4!!

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350ZMO

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What rba's have spring loaded posts?

SRT II, R tank and others, Google atomizers with spring loaded posts. The gamma v2 has a capture hole, insert wire tighten Allen set screw that also works but if the Allen set screw is pointed or the through capture hole has threads below it then it can cut the wire which is highly annoying. I like the spring loaded. I have a pyrez rsst with spring loaded positive post.
 

Cloud Junky

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I watched Todd's video, I really like his reviews but I noticed that he failed to pulse fire and squeeze his micro coils. This is most important on a new micro as many times some of the wraps are conducting to each other. Just saying.
Of coarse before the wick is put in.

I am sure he did it off camera, I noticed his coils were tighter when he was wicking. He is getting better at building though that is for sure.
 

VaPreis

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Now, why would you ever dry burn a material that's prone to getting burnt dry? Test your coils before you wick everything and it will run as it should. Only time you'd dry burn is to clean them when changing wicks or on SS mesh builds to find and remove hot spots. And trust me, all the clearos get real worn if you dry burn them too much, and will taste like s@#$. They do so slower because those coils are tiiiiiiny compared to RBA ones.

Ekowool doesn't burn. In fact, it works better after torching it because it's less prone to fraying. Just Sayin'



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DejayRezme

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    Ekowool doesn't burn. In fact, it works better after torching it because it's less prone to fraying. Just Sayin'

    I boiled it before (got the authentic ekowool). I think that should be enough for "desizing". They probably put a coat of starch or gluten or some other (hopefully natural) agent on it to make it smoother. After boiling, it feels much less springy.

    But I don't get why dry burning it leaves such a persistent smell on the coil. Maybe I should have rinsed it after dry burn? I'll just not dry burn anymore, but still wondering. Or is it the oxidizing of the Kanthal that leaves the smell?
     

    SkvLTD

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    I boiled it before (got the authentic ekowool). I think that should be enough for "desizing". They probably put a coat of starch or gluten or some other (hopefully natural) agent on it to make it smoother. After boiling, it feels much less springy.

    But I don't get why dry burning it leaves such a persistent smell on the coil. Maybe I should have rinsed it after dry burn? I'll just not dry burn anymore, but still wondering. Or is it the oxidizing of the Kanthal that leaves the smell?

    What's the point of kanthal on not SS wicks by the way? Wasn't the whole point that it helps oxidize itself to the mesh making a better connection?
     

    pmcode

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    What's the point of kanthal on not SS wicks by the way? Wasn't the whole point that it helps oxidize itself to the mesh making a better connection?

    I don't know, man, I myself have never been able to properly oxidize a piece of SS mesh without roasting it, probably waaaayyyy beyond what is considered safe temps for ss. I finally gave up and went cotton for everything. Just seems easier, without too much of a bother rewicking.
     

    occultangle

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    What's the point of kanthal on not SS wicks by the way? Wasn't the whole point that it helps oxidize itself to the mesh making a better connection?

    No, the oxidizing of the coil/mesh is in order to not make a connection with the mesh. When it connects to the mesh it shorts and usually pops your coil.

    So, silica, ekowool, etc. doesn't burn it self per se, but there does seem to often be some kind of oil in it that does burn and leave a nasty smell. Also, I think another problem is that when you dry burn it, smoke from the coil goes through it and leaves some tar like substance in it. Not all silica is the same in it's behavior, cleaning with alcohols can help, smaller premade coils usually burn cleaner than bigger ones built yourself. Also there is an art form to dry burning for best results, and any bad flavor/smell usually goes away after vaping a while.

    But anyways, I think cotton will be the obvious choice for this device. I've always been a silica guy, I never liked mesh for various reasons, and I strongly resisted cotton for the longest time. I tried it once or twice and thought it was okay, but once I started using cotton balls long term I discovered it's best virtue, it wicks better than anything else. Devices I struggled to make wick properly became dead easy with cotton. This Fogger V4 doesn't have any juice control, and I'm certain I would have hated this when I only used silica, but I'm highly confident it will wick well with cotton, similar to the results I get using the Aqua with cotton and the juice control fully closed, i.e. excellent.
     
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    SkvLTD

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