Fogger V4!!

[WharfRat1976]

I've tried a bunch of different wicking methods. Basically the different methods I've seen all over the internet. My current was leave long tails, screw the bottom portion of the chimney over the tails, trim the tails just a few mm higher the the chimney, then tuck them down on top of the juice channels.

Bro, in my opinion way too much wick. I also put the coils fairly high from the deck to create the perfect "U" with my "shoulders" a tad larger than my coil diameter. I then perfect the wicks with a tiny flat head and when I screw the lower chimney on I carefully watch that the wicks do not move from the positions I have placed them. If any part of the wick ends move, I use the flat head to reposition the wick ends over the channels resting gently on the deck. I think the higher up coils decrease flooding as the wick in the coil is not as close to the airhole. The wicks on the deck are flanged out a little bit away from the large airholes which also decreases leaking through the airholes. This set up and I guess most good setups are borderline leakers through the airholes BUT the vape is wet, warm and luscious. Sometimes it does leak after massive chain vaping but I always have a towel/vape rag around to mop it up. Usually it all settles in and no leaks anywhere. I use 9 wraps of 28awg off a coil gizmo around a mandrel that is a little bigger than a 1/16th and the dual coils ohm out at .6. I put only 7 watts on it which shows 2 volts on my DNA mod. Most juices vape great at these numbers.

 

[awsum140]

I duuno folks, I'm just not feeling the love for this thing at all.

I just rebuilt it, again, even though the coils and wicks only had two tanks through them and were pristine. This time I used 31 gauge with eight wraps and got the build in at 1.4 ohms, was shooting for 1.5. I do cheat and use an ohm meter to measure the first piece of wire, then cut the second the same length.

I did make a little jig, just a 2x3 with a hole for the 510 connector and a couple of rubber bands to hold the needles with the coils on them. Even with that, the squirm of the wires under those screws was a royal pain in the ....!. The coils are just off the deck, maybe 1-1.5mm off the deck, so they are nice and close to the air holes. When I test fired both coils lit up almost instantly with that nice cherry red in the middle and a little "cooler" at the ends. It looked great!

I wicked it up with cellulose, kind of a messy job since the wicks need to be wet to trim them properly and get them nicely arranged in the wick channels, about half way down and tapered. I did fire it up as a dripper at that point, after the chimney went on, and it produced vapor. So I went ahead and finished assembly and filled it. I put in about 4.5ml and had a mess with leaks out of the drip tip end, air holes and fill hole. I managed to lose the little washer for the fill screw, but there are replacements in the parts bag. Too bad they aren't the same washer and have to be carefully tucked into the hole, then put the screw in.

Yeah, it puts out nice vapor, has nice flavor and throat hit. Problem is, so do my iClear 30, Nautilus and Protank and those are running well under 10 watts while I'm running the 4.1 at 15 watts. I really expected to be able to fog a room with this thing and that just ain't a happening thing. Given all the little problems, coils screws, fill hole and filling, having to be very careful with coils to make a "set", wet trimming wicks and so on, I just don't think it's worth the effort. Maybe it'll perform better at higher power, I don't know, but given that higher power just eats batteries faster I don't see any advantage at all.

 

[Tbev]

Post some pics, you'll throw away your other attys when you get this done right.

 

[awsum140]

In my old age, I don't know I have the patience to get it right. I find myself wanting things to work, as advertised, right out of the box. If this thing takes multiple builds, spills, curses and messes to make it work, how is it worth it? I get better performance, overall, from a Protank wicked with cellulose! That takes all of two minutes to do with no mess, no spills, one build and no curses. Plus a Protabk costs about a third of what a Fogger costs. Yeah, the Fogger holds more, but I can fill three Protanks in the time it takes to fill one Fogger, and I don't need a syringe to fill them.

I get thick, heavy, clouds of vapor out of a Protank at 2.4 ohms running 9 watts. More, in fact, than the V1 at 1.4 ohms running 15 watts. Advantage - Protank! Yes maybe the 4.1 will work better at 20, 25 watts or even higher, but again unless it fills the room to "zero vivibility"....

 

[BNEAT]

I really haven't been paying attention to how much power people have been throwing at these things. Well, I do take note of how high people have gone, but not how low. I build/vape all of mine at 18-22 watts, so I have no idea how they perform with low power builds. Maybe they're not worth the hassle?? I would think you could get 2-3 weeks on a low power Rayon build without having to re-wick, that would surely be worth the hassle!

 

[awsum140]

Heck, I'm on a month on some Protanks builds, well over 60ml through them, with cellulose. Two or three weeks off a Fogger? Let's see, better part of at least a half hour on the Fogger build, less than ten minutes building four Protanks.....hmmmm.

To be completely fair, this is my first foray into RBAs. I've rebuilt everything I own, other than iClear 30Bs, and always get excellent performance and life out of them. I guess RBAs just aren't for me.

 

[BNEAT]

Re-wicking a Fogger takes me about 5-10 minutes. But, I run Boba's in one of mine, so I get a lot of practice, LOL!

 

[BNEAT]

Hey, here's an idea. Try building your Fogger with one coil and see how you like it. Just stuff some Rayon in the juice channels you don't use, it won't leak.

edit: might have to stuff a tooth pick in the air hole you don't use.

 

[awsum140]

Rewicking is one thing, re-coiling is a whole other headache. It amazes me that they supply such a crappy method and low grade hardware to hold the coil leads. I understand it needs to be small, but jesesh, those screw heads are hardly big enough to cover 31 gauge. How 28 gauge stays put beats me, then there's that lovely squirm as the screw head grabs the wire, pull is and distorts the crap out of a neatly wound and arranged coil setup. Yeah, I know cut the cut heads a little, then cut a light groove in the fill hole screw for that washer. Problem is I don't have a lathe or even a drill press, besides should it really need to be re-machined by the end user?

 

[BNEAT]

Yeah, the builds are a little tedious, But I haven't changed coils on any of mine: they last virtually forever!

 

[AREA51]

RE Post from AMD Trucking: "For the seal under the screw any little O-Ring can be used. I cut a little piece of a drip bottle tip with the X-Acto knife."

Too clever! Thanks for sharing.

 

[awsum140]

Again, re-machining by the end user? I still don't see the whole point. Plus, I don't use or want plastic drip bottles, glass is the only way to go.

 

[BNEAT]

wanna buy some Protanks?

 

[Tbev]

^^^^^^^^lol!

 

[87slosohc]

Rewicking is one thing, re-coiling is a whole other headache. It amazes me that they supply such a crappy method and low grade hardware to hold the coil leads. I understand it needs to be small, but jesesh, those screw heads are hardly big enough to cover 31 gauge. How 28 gauge stays put beats me, then there's that lovely squirm as the screw head grabs the wire, pull is and distorts the crap out of a neatly wound and arranged coil setup. Yeah, I know cut the cut heads a little, then cut a light groove in the fill hole screw for that washer. Problem is I don't have a lathe or even a drill press, besides should it really need to be re-machined by the end user?

I have no problem with 26ga. I leave the drill bit in the coil and wrap the legs about 3/4 around the screw before tightening.

 

[BNEAT]

I have no problem with 26ga. I leave the drill bit in the coil and wrap the legs about 3/4 around the screw before tightening.

Heavy gauge wire is a piece of cake. It's that 30-32 gauge angel hair pasta that the low-power guys use that cause people fits.

 

[Tbev]

Those screws are just something you have to, and will, get used to. Not that big of a deal, it's how a lot of them are.

 

[awsum140]

Well, if that's how a lot of them are, then they all suffer from the same short coming. As far as "angel hair" is concerned, not everyone feels the need or drive to do sub-ohm builds. Getting a, for me, reasonable resistance in dual coil devices requires too many turns (too much mass) in lower gauge wire. Like I said, RBAs and the "wonders" of sub-ohm may just not be my cup of tea, especially when I can get other devices to perform on the level of a Fogger with a 0.00005 coil in it. All it takes is finesse.

 

[Tbev]

So how is your fogger working...?

 

[Uncletattoowhat]

Mine shall be here Thursday. Can't wait to see how it is. I even tried to reassure myself that it HAS to be better than a stock kayfun when I picked one up as part of a package today. I just cant do it! lol