Fogger V4!!

[AMDTrucking]

Even without holes but just using better screws would make a world of difference. I bought cheese head (I think I have the term correct) screws to replace those in my Kayfuns and the difference really is huge for some. Between the "meatier" head and the completely flat underside its just so much easier to attach wire. Never thought about replacing the Fogger screws since I haven't had problems like I did with the kayfun. Perhaps having 2 wires around the head keeps them in place better as I tighten or maybe I just got lucky.

Offhand, does anyone know the size and pitch of the screws in the Fogger? I'm using rayon wicking and I haven't opened mine up for over 2 weeks now.

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You are going to like this: The Size of the screws used in Fogger 4.0 (all models) is the same that is used in the kayfun: M1.6-0.35mm 3.5mm in length. Use that same link on Amazon.com that I gave you.

 

[bsoplinger]

On a related note, I'm wondering if what I'm doing is what someone else is too.

That's pretty much exactly how I build also. I make 2 Kayfun coils since I build those for 1.5-1.6 ohm which when used as a dual coil gets me around 0.8 ohms. I'm delighted with the results I get with the build.

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[AMDTrucking]

That's a super uber user-modified kayfun though


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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that Kayfun is 30mm in diameter with a much larger deck and chimney then regular Kayfun.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1733905

P.S: My Big Buddha is being delivered tomorrow

 

[WharfRat1976]

I duuno folks, I'm just not feeling the love for this thing at all.

I just rebuilt it, again, even though the coils and wicks only had two tanks through them and were pristine. This time I used 31 gauge with eight wraps and got the build in at 1.4 ohms, was shooting for 1.5. I do cheat and use an ohm meter to measure the first piece of wire, then cut the second the same length.

I did make a little jig, just a 2x3 with a hole for the 510 connector and a couple of rubber bands to hold the needles with the coils on them. Even with that, the squirm of the wires under those screws was a royal pain in the ....!. The coils are just off the deck, maybe 1-1.5mm off the deck, so they are nice and close to the air holes. When I test fired both coils lit up almost instantly with that nice cherry red in the middle and a little "cooler" at the ends. It looked great!

I wicked it up with cellulose, kind of a messy job since the wicks need to be wet to trim them properly and get them nicely arranged in the wick channels, about half way down and tapered. I did fire it up as a dripper at that point, after the chimney went on, and it produced vapor. So I went ahead and finished assembly and filled it. I put in about 4.5ml and had a mess with leaks out of the drip tip end, air holes and fill hole. I managed to lose the little washer for the fill screw, but there are replacements in the parts bag. Too bad they aren't the same washer and have to be carefully tucked into the hole, then put the screw in.

Yeah, it puts out nice vapor, has nice flavor and throat hit. Problem is, so do my iClear 30, Nautilus and Protank and those are running well under 10 watts while I'm running the 4.1 at 15 watts. I really expected to be able to fog a room with this thing and that just ain't a happening thing. Given all the little problems, coils screws, fill hole and filling, having to be very careful with coils to make a "set", wet trimming wicks and so on, I just don't think it's worth the effort. Maybe it'll perform better at higher power, I don't know, but given that higher power just eats batteries faster I don't see any advantage at all.

Here is exactly what you are doing wrong. DO NOT put the wicks in on or near the channels. The wicks should only touch the top deck like a KFL. The coil needs to be LIFTED UP WELL OFF THE DECK to increase the distance from the airhole. The reason you are leaking during your fill is very simple. You have the atty upside down, or at least tilted downward to fill it. DURING THE FILL, the wicks are saturating, grabbing the juice and filling the inner chamber with your precious juice and then running through the center stem and out onto your palm like a faucet. The juice will also come pouring out of your airholes since your coils are so low on your deck so all of that juice being sucked in by your Rayon will spill into the large airholes and pour out all over your device your palm and everything else. (in between your fingers) The fix is so easy. Just read this post and try try again. Once you get it you will be blown away as has been said here. Sorry for the BOLD but just want you to experience this device 100%.

Use 28awg and you will get a .6 with 8 or 9 wraps as well. Duals are not designed for a 1.4ohm resistance. My device did not come with a fill hole washer. They are usually worthless anyway after getting torqued 2 or 3 times. Just tighten it in good. It may leak abit but when I screw the atty down abit harder on my DNA it kind of seals it off.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Not Fogger related, sorry.

But if you were looking at FastTech's gold plated Patriot RDA - Don't!!!

And here is why:

 

[87slosohc]

Mine has a o ring not a washer on the fill port, just snug it up until it stops spinning and it never leaks.

.45ohms with 26ga seems to be the sweet spot for flavor and vapor for me on the 4.1(4.4). Drilled out all the air passages in my kayfun and it gets close but still can't compete with a stock fogger.

 

[TheKiwi]

Haha weird. My build is almost completely opposite of wharfrat.

My coils are pretty close to the airhole (1.5mm tops I think?), and I have a smudge of wick inside the vertical channel.


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[350ZMO]

Replaced the SX300 with an SX350 and vaping the same atty that burned up the SX300. A .55ohm BIG Fogger with dual ceramic donuts.

View attachment 358524

On another note I really dig the fogger but have been really digging the Kaiser for the last few days it flows juice amazingly well even with tightly packed Rayon and better than the standard size foggers. Yes fill more often but offset by the ease of a top fill port. BIG Fogger really putting out more than anything right now. So much so that I'll have to lower the nic content again LOL. A BIG Kaiser with dual top fill ports may be "my" fogger killer.

 

[awsum140]

I think wharfrat and kiwi illustrate one of my frustrations with the Fogger. One says on the deck with a little wick in the channels, the other says off the deck with no wick in the channels. I guess it's up to the end used to find out what works best which is exactly what I've been saying all along and that applies to RBAs and sub ohming as well.

I've vaped through the last refill and, if I have some time this afternoon, will tear it down and maybe try re-arranging the coils and re-wicking again. I'm aggravated with it, without a doubt, but I hate to give up on anything. I did order some cheese head screws, and they aren't from Wisconsin! I won't be changing coils out until they get here, maybe a couple of days.

Again, going sub ohm may be the Holy Grail of RBAs but I don't have a device that'll handle anything lower than about 1.2 ohms at the moment which makes that whole idea a non-starter. I've read a few comments that the iPVs in silver have been held up in Customs so there may be a delay before mine gets here (I ordered silver of course). I'm counting on that to let me get to lower resistances and, maybe, finally get the Fogger performing like I expected. Maybe that's it...I may have very well expected more than it can deliver.

 

[TheKiwi]

Wub. I run 1.2 ohms build for my provari at 4.3 V. Vapes like a dream. 30ga, 11 wraps around 2mm drill bit each


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[awsum140]

Well, maybe when the screws get here, and for what the freight cost the should hand deliver them and install them, I'll give that set-up a try. Something has to work, I hope.

 

[TheKiwi]

Well, maybe when the screws get here, and for what the freight cost the should hand deliver them and install them, I'll give that set-up a try. Something has to work, I hope.

Good luck! You'll figure smth out FOR SURE. just gotta stick to it. Took me 5 builds before I got one that would not leak but burns at more than 22 watts.

Found a build that handles 26 watts, but would leak once I drop to 15 watts.

Finally found a build that wouldn't leak and could handle 28 watts. The process was a pretty long one for me too!


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[awsum140]

I don't wanna know how many builds it took to get to that!

I have decided to change just one thing at a time with any particular build. I started out with the coils up and lots of wick in the channels. Then went lower with a little wick in the channels (two changes). Performance was better, but still not awesome. This build is almost on the deck with the channels about half full and it performs significantly better, but still not what I expected or am looking for. Guess it's a matter of trial and error. I just hope I have the patience not to throw it out the window in the process.

 

[TheKiwi]

I don't wanna know how many builds it took to get to that!

I have decided to change just one thing at a time with any particular build. I started out with the coils up and lots of wick in the channels. Then went lower with a little wick in the channels (two changes). Performance was better, but still not awesome. This build is almost on the deck with the channels about half full and it performs significantly better, but still not what I expected or am looking for. Guess it's a matter of trial and error. I just hope I have the patience not to throw it out the window in the process.

It wasn't thaaaaat much. Maybe 15?

But that's just how building different attys are. I had kayfuns nailed down right from my first build, but I cannot build a non-leaky taifun Gt to save my sorry ... in spite of the number of other people who have it nailed down from the start.

Anyways here's how I've been building mine now

I used a bigger diameter coil (2mm), then followed tbev's advice and snipped the ends at an angle, then poke just the tiniest bit of wick into the channel. It looks a lot more than it really is in the picture tho. I've also been snipping the wicks a bit shorter to reduce the bulge on the edges of the coil, and lowered the coil closer to the air hole


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[awsum140]

I've been using a nominal 2mm coil as well. You're leaving the wicks at about the same length as I've been cutting as well. I guess I need to finesse that part a little better. I'll know more when I take this setup apart and have a look see.

I will say it's easy to vape this thing completely empty using cellulose for wicks.

 

[TheKiwi]

Btw I hope I recall this correctly but I think you mentioned leaking?

I just remembered this: always always check your wicks when you screw on the cylindrical chimney section! If you have a habit of leaving fat ends the way I do, almost 100% of the time the wicks end up getting dragged out of the channels by the chimney section. I didn't realize it at first and had a few builds leak on me like crazy.

What I do is as I screw on the chimney section, I look down into it and make sure the wicks don't get dragged along. If you see that the wicks are starting to move along, use a precision screw driver and just kinda budge it into place. That MIGHt be the key because that's what solved all leakings for me


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[BNEAT]

If you're limited on power, stick with what's been working in your Protanks: a single coil build. It seems like I saw where someone in this thread had good results with a single coil. If I remember right, he was doing it that way because he didn't have enough power to run duals.

 

[BNEAT]

Also, I'm betting that if I practiced more builds with wicks in the channels, I'm sure I would have as much success as I am with the wicks on the deck. My point being that either way will probably work equally well, it's just a matter of whichever way you perfect first is probably what you're going to stick with...

Nah, my way is best. Everyone else is wrong!

 

[timastyle]

So I've had my V4.1 official in a few days now and liking the original V4 more. The airholes are larger and I liked the AFC not being threaded. With the V4.1, I put the AFC on so that it was wide open and when I put the rest of it together, the AFC ring was stuck and would close. I probably didn't screw it down enough before putting the rest of the pieces together, but it felt like if I were to screw it down any more, it would block the airhole some. Now I have it off completely, but it's still not as airy as the V4. I didn't have the issue of a loose ring like others did with my V4.

I also have been coiling my wicks with rayon the same way @thekiwi is and I'm not noticing a whole lot of difference compared to cotton. It's definitely smoother and haven't had a dry hit, but the flavor and vapor seem to be on par. I'm not sure if I'm doing anything wrong here. The other thing I noticed is that with rayon, my juice lasts longer than with cotton. I thought it was supposed to be the other way around. Guess there's a bit more trial and error to be had with it. I think I put too much rayon the first go around.

 

[Tbev]

Hey kiwi, what's the res on that build? I would even venture to say that you could use quite a bit less wick than that.
Pic1: I'd go for a more aggressive angle, thinning the tails by 40%. Each
Pic2: the left tail pictured goes from the coil out, up and kinks down and back towards the inside. If it was cut more aggressively it would mellow down the shoulder wick faster and keep up with lower ohms.

Just wanted to throw that out there, obviously it's working now, that's how mine were on my first builds, and the way I've just described are what I've gotten closer to as I've pushed it harder and harder.
Just my 2 cents.
Vapor!