Dude, admitting you have the problem is the first step to recovery! LOLYes to all of the above!
The proof is in the pudding:
Fogger V4!!
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It was called Huan Ying, now they changed it to (6.0ml) EK V3 RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer $19.41
Only, to get a pleasant vape, I modified the heck out of it. Drilled the air intake holes and drilled and slotted the air tube.
I must admit, I'm just a little jealous you have the skill and tools to perform all these drill outs and modifications. I have a couple of pins I'd love to be able to widen, but sadly don't have the skill set.
I can handle the electronics part.... Cutting, drilling, bore out holes...above my pay grade
I can handle the electronics part.... Cutting, drilling, bore out holes...above my pay grade
I just invested in a small drill press, Phone Guy, just so I could actually drill, reliably, some Fogger air holes. Best thing I've bought in a long time, drill press and vertical lathe, LOL.
Is there a drill press that is at the same time a vertical lathe?
No, not really, but if you add a cross slide vice and work carefully and very slowly it's amazing what can be done with an $80 drill press. By no means is it as capable, or accurate, as a lathe or mill, but with a little Dremel, file and polishing a decent job can be done.
Ahh, yes, the Huan Ying, with such a memorable name its a wonder they changed it.
Just comparing the stock photos to that pic of the base, definitely see why you opened up the air intake, and slotted the air tube.
Now my modding isn't up to your level, so I think I'll have to pass on that one. This is about as advanced as I get:
Slotted the mini rba head on my STmini, still works with ni200 builds too, so I guess it was a success.
Honestly, I need another RTA like I need a hole in my head anyway, just got the Goliath in last week, have a Lemo 2 coming next week (hopefully), and I just ordered a Cthulhu tank (top fill Goblin if you haven't seen it).
I must admit, I'm just a little jealous you have the skill and tools to perform all these drill outs and modifications. I have a couple of pins I'd love to be able to widen, but sadly don't have the skill set.
I can handle the electronics part.... Cutting, drilling, bore out holes...above my pay grade
Then ship those pins to me and I'll drill then for you at no charge,
I do my electronics myself too:
Replacing defective "+" micro switch. First, I removed the switch. Then I unsoldered a good switch from "Fire" button and placed it on "+" position. And then I installed the regular micro switch that I had into the "Fire" button position and filed down the "Fire" button because my switch is much taller.
Or making my own Hana Modz with authentic Evolv DNA40D board and Fat Daddy's 510 connector.
I'm sure he meant that he holds a manual file against the product that is spinning around in his drill press.
File, Dremel or even a hacksaw if required. Careful clamping and a good cutting bit with the vice and, viola, some basic, not particularly accurate, cutting can be done, just very slowly.
That is a good dremel job you did.
How do you like your Yihi?
I love mine! It opens up new opportunities for me with it's 0.65Ω.
Here it is:
Instead of making an 11 - 12 wraps of 26 Gauge Nickel, I made only 7 and it is great:
Wow....even your photo's are excellent Thank you for the drilling the pin offer, I may take you up on that. Electronics never scared me, I was adding ram chips to atari 8-bit and ST machines when I was a kid, burning eeproms, those modification chips back in the day for disk drives--yada yada yada... I'm comfortable around a soldering iron -- the eye's don't always cooperate nowadays, but my trusty old guy reading glasses, a lighted magnifying lamp and I'm usually ok (maybe a beer or two never hurts either).
The physical modifications - man, they are just not my strong suit. I build a DNA (20 or 30 I can't remember now) box in a PLASTIC box, cut the screen part decent but still rough, and completely FUBAR'd the USB port...LOL. Like I said, just above my pay grade man. I'll have to dig up those pictures and post em - You'll laugh your *** off. LOL.
Nicely done in the micro tact. Those are not easy, and most people apply too much heat and fuse them...
Thank you for the drilling the pin offer, I may take you up on that. Electronics never scared me, I was adding ram chips to atari 8-bit and ST machines when I was a kid, burning eeproms, those modification chips back in the day for disk drives--yada yada yada... I'm comfortable around a soldering iron -- the eye's don't always cooperate nowadays, but my trusty old guy reading glasses, a lighted magnifying lamp and I'm usually ok (maybe a beer or two never hurts either).The physical modifications - man, they are just not my strong suit. I build a DNA (20 or 30 I can't remember now) box in a PLASTIC box, cut the screen part decent but still rough, and completely FUBAR'd the USB port...LOL. Like I said, just above my pay grade man. I'll have to dig up those pictures and post em - You'll laugh your *** off. LOL.
Nicely done in the micro tact. Those are not easy, and most people apply too much heat and fuse them...
Honestly, I really love it, its been great thus far (only had it since last Friday).
I too like the freedom of being able to build lower. Put a dual coil 28g in my Goliath, .07 on the SX mini, and its working great. I plan on doing the same to my Fogger v4.
I really like being able to manually set the resistance, instead of relying on the DNA40 to automagically sense my new coil, which isn't always reliable for me at least.
Nice build too. I have some 26g ni200 coming in the mail for single coils. With the DNA40 I never felt the need to go lower than 28g because I figured I would need too many wraps to fit into most of my atomizers, which probably wasn't necessarily the case.
That said I still like my DNA40s, I just think I like the SX a bit better.
Dam Frog in the fog screwed up my order and sent me UD Goblin instead of Goliath. It was too much hassle to ship it back, so I accepted their offer to keep that Goblin for $7.00. Not a bad deal? Today it arrived. It has become a habit of mine to look for ways to improve every new device I get. Besides, if I screw it up, it is only $7.00. I decided to install extended air tubes on the deck. You know, to prevent leaking... I drilled the exciting 3.0mm hole to 3.2mm half way into the base. Then I turned new air tubes 3.25mm OD and 2.9mm ID, that's 0.175mm wall thickness. Like hypodermic needles and pressed them into the holes in my deck. Then I made a 0.5Ω build of Tempered 28 Gauge Ni200, 10 wraps 2.5mm ID. Man, this is one crowded build deck. Fogger is a football field comparing to Goblin.
Long story - short, it works on my Yihi SX Mini M-Class, but I don't ever want to rebuild it again this way. The threads in the Chimney well were like a saw blade, I had to use a sand paper to smooth them out and I had to cut some of the chimney cap, because it was shorting to my build.
Overall: Goblin is not my favorite tank.
Will see how is the Goliath, when it arrives. How is yours?
Nice deal on the goblin, heh. I would be happy with it for $7.
Well, thus far I like it overall. I tried a 26g kanthal build, and right now I have a 28g ni200 build in it. I really hate bottom fill ports, so I like being able to fill it without a screwdriver. Its not as convenient as top fill, but the juice control works and is easy to fill the tank even will dropper style bottles. The refilling process is not terrible as long as you don't jank up your build putting the tank back on. The two post design definitely makes it easier to center your build.
Things I don't like about it are the build deck is tiny, even smaller than the goblin, which I already thought was small. The air intake, and holes on the deck are smaller than the goblin, but the chimney is larger, so the airflow is still good overall, but it seems like they missed an opportunity. It runs through juice like any airy dual coil tank, but only has a 3ml capacity. That part doesn't bother me too much because refilling isn't terrible.
My nickel build is dual 28g annealed ni200 3/32 ID, 11 wraps, came out to .072 on my ohm meter, and reads .08 on the SX mini.
Next time I think I may try contact ni200 coils just because the deck is so small, see how the m class does with them.
edit
Seems to be working well around 420F.
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I used my iStick with a Fogger on top all day yesterday at the dragstrip...still a great vape, and I didn't worry about breaking anything like I normally do with my expensive stuff.
I refilled twice with a normal dripper bottle and miraculously had no problem, which is a first for me. (I usually have to use needle tips to fill these things to keep from messing up the wicks and causing floods)
I refilled twice with a normal dripper bottle and miraculously had no problem, which is a first for me. (I usually have to use needle tips to fill these things to keep from messing up the wicks and causing floods)
Where is all my old Fogger buddies?? Have you all moved on to bigger and better things?
Here is my latest out-and-about pocket friendly set-up, and I have to say, it's quite impressive:
Like the original iStick 20watt, it feels much hotter than 20watts! (feels more like 25watts on my Flask)
Here is my latest out-and-about pocket friendly set-up, and I have to say, it's quite impressive:
Like the original iStick 20watt, it feels much hotter than 20watts! (feels more like 25watts on my Flask)
Because of the resistance limitation of DNA40, I've been using single coil atomizers lately. But with the acquisition of Yihi SXmini M-Class, that allows lower resistance (0.05Ω) and higher power 60W, I'm back with dual coil tanks. Here are my Galiath, Aqua V2 and Goblin. Foggers are next.
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