Thanks this thread is very good for the most part about helping and there's not really blind fanboyism these days in here that i see. Whenever I post something like this I'm always worried about getting blasted off on by other members and caught up in an Internet tantrum / fight. Probably because I had a really bad experience on the forums with another brand which I let get even worse by getting sucked in -
it's still Coming up in various threads) but I want to be fair to the members here. Even those with no issues and who are big fans try to help everyone else and recognize things should be better with customer support.
I'm an engineer too and I feel like a lot
Of times (not this thread) it's really a waste of
Time and most people can't follow the logic when blinded with love for inanimate objects.
This thread and the GP thread have been very helpful for me and if Mark bugs offered even half the consideration of his devoted fans this wouldn't be a topic. Most
People accept that s*^t happens - it's when nothing is done and communication fails it becomes an issue
For temp Control in running a nickel build in one right now with no issues but it does take a minute to set the sender pin the right way. I've noticed higher resistance materials like titanium and stainless tend to read better for successful initial pairing but the fluctuations of the gem and lower tcr typically mean that for at least stainless steel it's not terribly reliable or accurate - hence choosing nickel. We're there a bit more room to make a build over .1 ohm I think the issues would mostly resolve.
Im going to try and by som me nickel wrapped kanthal (or is it vice Versa) and calculate the proper tcr for the Yihi mods I have. That may be the best of both worlds in here. Decent tcr difference and higher build resistance. Might solve the issues.
Where do you have most of the troubles ? And are you using dna200 devices or others?
I try to unscrew the center pin only far enough that it registers (barely) with the mod. It takes a couple times on and off but when set it can stay there a while - so while not ideal it's not too inconvenient. Also I use a 521tab and saturate the build heavily. Then i pulse fire quickly. Since nickel particularly "settles" quite a bit after firing this allows that settling without the massive swings that can be seen if the initial pulses are done on mod.
Finally for the DNA 200 I always just locked it after pairing and he pulses were done. That device while technically clever and very cool to use is overly sensitive imo which makes a horrible companion for a temperamental atomizers. So I only out settled builds on the mod and lock right away.
Hope some of that can help you. If you don't have w build station that can fire they're very helpful for tc builds that need to be broken in - though you want to wick and not dry burn tc materials obviously.