*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs
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Thank you for that simple formula. I learnt something there and have been surfing around to learn a bit more. The battery I'm going to use on the mech is an AW IMR 18650 3000mAH with a maximum continuous discharge rate of 20A. See hereHey bob. The math to be safe is very very simple. You just have to research the batteries you're using. if you post make and model I can help you. Also make sure there isn't a short. In the case of the gem stick To 28 gauge wire and make sure the deck screws are in there rightly. Ensure you aren't touching the sides of the deck with the coil.
As far as mechanicals and safety goes The math works like this.
4.2 (the average upper output of batteries through 18650) / resistance of the coil = amp draw. You can pretty safely assume the 18650 500 or 350 batteries you're going to use all put out 4.2 -4.3 max when charged up. And you don't want to exceed 75% of the battery's rated continuous output.
So if you have an 18650 battery that's rated at safe for 20 Amps continuous output and you wanted to see if your .7 ohm build worked safely
.7 / 4.2= 6. More than safe enough. You'd be hard pushed to make a kanthal coil on the gem that would be an issue with most decent 18650 coils. What you need to Worry about is shorting. If you attach the gem to a mech mod and fire it and nothing happens. Stop firing it. If a battery has any damage don't use it. If you feel any heat develop in the tube of the mod Stop firing and remove the battery
Here's an example
Of one of my batteries which would be a safety issue fwiw. I just saw his after charging
In the case of good batteries with continuous draws rated at 20+ amps you'd have to be building down to .35 or lower before our have to worry about the continuous draw safety. For what we in here do with the gem that's not an issue. U less you build with nickel. Forget. And put it on a mech mod.
AW IMR18650 3000mAh Battery - Creme de Vape
I think I'll try and build the coil on my Gem to around 1.5 ohms. Applying your formula, that seems plenty safe. The trick is to build and mount precisely and that's still my weak spot. Also before I embark on this new journey I'm going to acquire an ohms and volt meter. It will help with my coil building as well, since I've been mounting the build deck on my P3 to check resistance.
I had posted a thread elsewhere on this forum asking the same questions and somebody scared the hell out of me by insisting I either use a kick or a regulated mod. Said at 1.2 ohms I could be building a pipe bomb if I didn't understand the principles. Well I agree that I need to understand batteries and what I'm doing with them but its left me feeling unsure.
For some additional info on the battery: AW 20A 3000mAh Flat-Top 18650 Bench Test Results...a good high-capacity 20A battery, could be an HG2
R
Refilling seems to be leak free using cotton. Refilled both my Gems twice now and not a drop. Now lets see how many refills I can get from these wicks.
Aw batteries are great (outside of using them in a provari where the internal resistance messes up the provari health and drain algorithms). I use all Aw 14500 in my piccoloid now after realizing how much better they were than the other brands o had to try. I've become a big fan of that battery brand and though they're expensive they are very good. Also if you want to get more batteries you can try Samsung 25r (now provari top choice) or Sony vtc4. All of those have very good max continuous and power levels.
You're going to do.fine. Honestly there are only two areas where you could potentially ground and you should be able to easily see one of them. The deck itself. The top - if you stick to 28 gauge you won't have any issue.
Glad to help. A fair amount of.peoppe just quote ohms law and don't snow a practical application. When to it realize one number almost.never changes and the other you only figure really out one time to compare against. It'd pretty easy. I build a lot lower than you and I feel..safe building to.7 on my 18350 batteries rated at 10 continuous. Never had an issue. As you can see with that I'm only getting g 60-75%. Most gem builds or Langham at 26/28 gauge won't be an issue aside from.grounding. Also.nothi g is going to instantly explode. If you have a short it will get extremely hot. At which point you loosen the mod or put it down and walk away. To actually hurt yourself would take a specialist kind of stupid and thermal gloves. Or pocket firing. Make sure you lock your mech in your pocket. I accidentally fired one I didn't and that did create an issue as I'd built carelessly and hadn't tested it before pocketing unlocked. That was a really really stupid moment for.me. I blame.medication!
To thread members. I told mark I wouldn't be able to ship . my gem.in for.quite a while for adjustment since I can't drive and such and asked if the 500 battery tube
Was for sale elsewhere. He ended up sending me the 500 part at no cost. I'm not sure if he did it due to the amount of issues I've had or because he felt bad for my physical problems or why exactly. But it was very nice of him. It should arrive with the replacement 510.
It does seem.since their email issue was realized and alternate emails given things have become a lot more smooth in terms of communication and I greatly appreciate it
Finally I received my nife48 from zipif today. Few the value I have for the mods requiring a single value for the temp control setting
Nifethal52(NiFe48 at Zivipf): 0.00405
Sorry to condense so.muxh into.one post. I haven't been around much laty. Things aren't going great post op :/
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Nifethal52(NiFe48 at Zivipf): 0.00405
Seems.way off.on the Yihi 350j chipset. Does anyone have alternate values?
Edit
Weird. It works perfectly.on the evic mini. I swear everytime I use this ~$38 device I wonder why I have two $200 devices. I haven't found a temp control mod at any price that works better.
Base reassurance was way different from the m class to the Yihi.
Ad far as I'm.ckncerned anyone looking for a smallish mod that works way better than the dna 200 and many others save your money and get the evic mini. Spend the extra on another atomizer or.something pretty for.your lady.
I know th and not a super.popular.opinion but I've tried a lot of regulated mods and the evic mini works amazingly for the price it's probably the most set and forget device I have tied with the provari p3 - and it reads the battery properly.
Seems.way off.on the Yihi 350j chipset. Does anyone have alternate values?
Edit
Weird. It works perfectly.on the evic mini. I swear everytime I use this ~$38 device I wonder why I have two $200 devices. I haven't found a temp control mod at any price that works better.
Base reassurance was way different from the m class to the Yihi.
Ad far as I'm.ckncerned anyone looking for a smallish mod that works way better than the dna 200 and many others save your money and get the evic mini. Spend the extra on another atomizer or.something pretty for.your lady.
I know th and not a super.popular.opinion but I've tried a lot of regulated mods and the evic mini works amazingly for the price it's probably the most set and forget device I have tied with the provari p3 - and it reads the battery properly.
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Do you mean the channels that run all the way up to the sides?if so yes wick material should be in those channels. That said typically I find I limit the amount of Material that sits in the channels. The thickest wick in the middle
Of the coil and thinning out as it progresses so
It is thinner when it comes to
The channels
Here is how I wick rayon and cotton bacon. Cotton pads slightly thinner. Easiest way imo is lift the wick up. Cut level with the deck screws, or close to, and then recenter it
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No, when the base is inside the chamber. Where the ends of the wick touch bell part.
Do you mean the channels that run all the way up to the sides?if so yes wick material should be in those channels. That said typically I find I limit the amount of Material that sits in the channels. The thickest wick in the middle
Of the coil and thinning out as it progresses so
It is thinner when it comes to
The channels
Here is how I wick rayon and cotton bacon. Cotton pads slightly thinner. Easiest way imo is lift the wick up. Cut level with the deck screws, or close to, and then recenter it
Well the way I wick it they may fall
Down but they wouldn't be .... up against them. If I personally wicked it that thick on the sides it wouldn't properly wick. I believe most here tend to wick a bit shorter than the full channel and thinner in the channel so It wouldn't be lined up against the wick holes. At least there would be a gap between the material and the hole due to the thinner wicking inside the channels.
You reamed the stainless to wick like the titanium right? I wouldn't imagine you'd need to have it touching unless you were a heavy PG user - greater than 50% - and then just to prevent flooding. With 50/50 or more vg I'd think you would want toke space to
Optimize wicking. The way the juice flows up the channels there is already a choke
Point in the bend.
To be honest I haven't actually looked through those holes but I will next time I'm empty and I rewick.
I sometimes can see the wick in those holes. I might be using too much wick???
I think so. If you look at my build as well as going back to see others I think you'll find nothing more than trailing bits down the side in most cases. Given I've never seen the wick in all my use of multiple gem tanks I would agree it's too much
Do you get dry hits? If so the first thing to do would be to cut shorter. Try wicking how I showed above and see the difference. Cut just a hair higher than the deck screws and you will get the right amount down the sides.
Otherwise pull the wick back through after cutting it a little to cut the other side. Like how @qorax shows he cuts in the mesh tutorial video.
I have to say the nife48 from zipif.de is for sure the besr temp control material I've used. That was a great recommendation. The gem is working flawlessly with it.
I got my 2nd TI gem tonight, I had to have another for my Provari 2.5 TI mini, I have not set it up yet. I will try to get some pics taken this weekend. I have had no problems at all with my first one, these are the perfect tank for them.
KAS
KAS
The ti is a little better all the way around but your percentages wouldn't indicate you need the bigger holes. The ti is much lighter. Has slightly more headroom for the deck and a better o ring system. You're going to be limited to s max of 8 wraps ofn2.5mm coming in at 1.3-4 with either one. If you want more resistance than that either a 1.5mm microcoil will be needed or 30 gauge wire. Ime
The titanium
Does wick better to me. But I vape super high vg and when I vape lower than 80% I don't really notice a difference. You'd have to find a stainless used kr in stock at a third party site. They're discontinued now. Logic would say the revised gem will be the same as titanium but made out of stainless but who knows when that comes out.
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