It sounds like your mesh isnt oxidised properly if it works once its been used for a while on another mod
Genesis Line - mini genesis
- Thread starter shpaolin
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Got mine yesterday, and I have to say, this thing is amazing. I was able to get my coil and wick working on the first try after about 10 minutes on my provari. My only other experience had been attempts at using a mesh wick in a bulli A2-TM. I used the method posted here of getting it red hot (using just a bic lighter) and quenching in water 3-4 times, then dripping some juice and burning that off a few times.
Initially, I was having some issue sucking liquid into the top section. I attempted to drill the air hole out to 1/16", but when I stopped about halfway through to clean the shavings, I managed to tip my drill over and break my only 1/16" bit. So, I went ahead and just drilled at 3/64" hole. This has helped a lot, though the draw is a tad more airy than I would have preferred. I did notice that turning up the wattage seemed to help with the larger air hole. I think the increased airflow causes the coil to cool off some, so giving it a little more voltage helps keep the coil hot enough.
Anyways, I just wanted to post to thank both Del and Van for all their hard work on this project and for sharing this with members outside of their forum community. I will definitely be on the lookout for future projects and will make sure my friends do the same.
Initially, I was having some issue sucking liquid into the top section. I attempted to drill the air hole out to 1/16", but when I stopped about halfway through to clean the shavings, I managed to tip my drill over and break my only 1/16" bit. So, I went ahead and just drilled at 3/64" hole. This has helped a lot, though the draw is a tad more airy than I would have preferred. I did notice that turning up the wattage seemed to help with the larger air hole. I think the increased airflow causes the coil to cool off some, so giving it a little more voltage helps keep the coil hot enough.
Anyways, I just wanted to post to thank both Del and Van for all their hard work on this project and for sharing this with members outside of their forum community. I will definitely be on the lookout for future projects and will make sure my friends do the same.
See Shapolin, even people from Ohio can get the Line to work on the Provari...
@Nitro: just getting on Shapolin's nerves, nothing against Ohio bro!
@Nitro: just getting on Shapolin's nerves, nothing against Ohio bro!
About this air hole driling is unnecessarily really.
Van is smart enough to know why it is as it is...
My line is working perfect with stock air hole... Draw is just at the edge of too airy, and if air hole is any bigger I would lose that great taste of flavor...My 2c
Van is smart enough to know why it is as it is...
My line is working perfect with stock air hole... Draw is just at the edge of too airy, and if air hole is any bigger I would lose that great taste of flavor...My 2c
My guess is your setup was not right.
You'we seen our videos and all of them are with stock air holes...
But if you are happyer with bigger air hole than it's ok I guess
as long we get those big clouds of vapor
You'we seen our videos and all of them are with stock air holes...
But if you are happyer with bigger air hole than it's ok I guess
as long we get those big clouds of vapor
Just an idea but if you ran a single length of CE2/Bulli type fibre wick through the centre of the mesh would it have the effect of stopping the mesh acting like a straw for the faster draggers amongst us and negate the (debatable) need for an airhole rebore ?
I don't know if it would work, just an idea. it shouldn't affect the clean flavour at all as the Kanthal is still only in contact with the mesh..
I don't know if it would work, just an idea. it shouldn't affect the clean flavour at all as the Kanthal is still only in contact with the mesh..
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I dont think the mesh acts as a straw, even with the top of the mesh pinched together the liquid comes through the mesh because by its nature its porous, and the 1.2 mm hole mod works well for me.
Its not a one size fits all, and everybody tweaks rebuildable atties, its the nature of the beast
Its not a one size fits all, and everybody tweaks rebuildable atties, its the nature of the beast
I realise that mate, but if the centre of the wick is blocked it should stop the problems some have reported with the juice flooding the atty chamber?
Anyway I was just throwing it out there, keyboard diarrhoea strikes again
Anyway I was just throwing it out there, keyboard diarrhoea strikes again
Thats what I like about people on the forums, always willing to share and discuss things . but I havent drilled my second one yet lol
Just curious... For those of you who feel that the draw is too tight, have you checked to see if maybe there is some leftover debris in the hole from the machining process? Like Zutma, I feel that the draw with the stock size hole is actually on the airier side... Just wondering if there is something different about yours than with mine.
If the top seats and forms a seal the fill hole and the mesh are common the wick can not act as a straw check the seat for forigen matter. Make sure the top is seated
Yea mine line is on airer side too after I clear the air hole...so I'm little surprised with tight draw problem
This is also the thing that is important. If it's not proper sealed you will get mouth full of juice also
and over flooded the coil
I'd like to understand this a little better... What exactly do you mean by the top? Also seated how?
Thanks.
This is also the thing that is important. If it's not proper sealed you will get mouth full of juice also
Sealed how, Zu?
I mean the top cap. If it's not sealed all the way you will get flood in the chamber. It is minor thing and you can overlooked it but it make all the difference...But if you ever do that you would know right away, so don't worry about it, just screw it all the way...
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