Genesis Wick Secrets

[Stownz]

Ok, its been 2 weeks now, and a full sheet of SS 400 Mesh. I can't seem to produce any consistency with the oxidization process. I boil it for 10 minutes, then Butane torch it red hot, then quench in cold water. I repeat the torching and quenching process over and over again (last 2 times I did it at least 15 times). I even did the PG + lighter thing that Scuba did in his video and let the pg burn off-- over and over again.

I'm batting about 1 in 10 it seems. I'll get one that lights all the coils quite well, just to find out it doesn't wick well. Make another one with a less tight roll (paying attention to no kinks), then find out it will light only one coil:shorted right? Push and pull the coil around, makin sure no coils are touching each other or the posts, and pow its a gonner. I swear its the SS mesh shorting out my coils, I can make a regular silica wick no problem at all.

Every video I have seen is just someone torching the SS wick to red hot, then dunking in water.

Is the trick not to ever let the SS wick touch the housing (ground)? All the genesis type attys must insulate the wick?

I've been trying to get the scuba to perform without selling out and putting a regular wick in it. Iatty works fine but its all plastic inside and easy to make sure the wick never touches metal. G-tank I only got to look at before it moved to a new home, but it looked like it insulated the wick also.

Is there another way to make the SS mesh not conduct current?

All you pro genesis builders post your tips and tricks and secrets.

 

[BJ43]

When you oxidize the mesh all you are doing is coating the mesh with a thin very delicate coating of non conducting minerals from the tap water, the mesh under that coating is still conductive, any prying around the coil can remove the coating. I use a wood toothpick and still sometimes short the coil. I have the best results with three heatings starting the first heating with the wick wet with tap water.

 

[Robert T]

If you're talking about the Scubagen v3 you have to isolate the wick from the SS body by putting either a piece of bic pen tube or nylon insulator into the holes that the wick goes through. Is that what the problem is?

Robert

 

[mj64]

The stainless is a fiddlers 'wick' at best, there's a reason why there are no commercial products made using stainless steel mesh as a wick. There are probably a hundred different considerations I could give you to build one of these, and you still might not get good results. I have played with them for months and can only reproduce good results with 1 device and 1 juice, don't be reluctant to try other wicks. The idea is to have a solid vaping setup and fiddle with this 'on the side' at least for me.

 

[Stownz]

Nope, got the pen tubes in, has to be shorting right at the coil. Run into the same thing on the bulli, will ohm out at like. 7 ohms or instant pop right at the wire connection.

Is it really the minerals in the water making the protective layer? Maybe I need to try some different water. That the atcual process was oxidizing.

 

[mj64]

Oxidation is just a fancy word for depositing oxides on something. You are coating the SS with crap so it won't conduct. Some folks like a lighter flame better.

 

[BJ43]

Nope, got the pen tubes in, has to be shorting right at the coil. Run into the same thing on the bulli, will ohm out at like. 7 ohms or instant pop right at the wire connection.

Is it really the minerals in the water making the protective layer? Maybe I need to try some different water. That the atcual process was oxidizing.

Someone tried distilled water and it didn't work, no minerals to deposit.

 

[lexi60]

Another trick I learned on the German forum. Burn the wick as you would.
Then put 1 wrap of a cig rolling paper on the mesh, wrap your coil snug.
Wet the wick. Burn it dry. wet it, burn it. repeat some.
The extra paper will burn away. It builds a nice insulator, just dont disturb the coil after that.

 

[perlionsmitnick]

My way is to take a large paper clip straightened out.(4" long). Use a piece of mesh 1" x 3.5" and laying the paper clip along one edge fold over the mesh straight move the paper clip then fold this edge down to make a nice straight folded edge.

Lay the paper clip on the other unfolded edge and start to roll the mesh like Dan shows. Roll it tightly. Then I remove the paper clip and slip a piece of 22 Ga wire in the opening. Now I will form the curve by rolling and bending as Dan showed in the vid. When you get it in the shape you want remove the wire and heat and dunk holding the shape to fit the holes in the atty(I use a Mapp gas torch- works quick). Do this about 4-5 times until the mesh turns black.

Hold mesh up to atty body and estimate the length and trim as needed.

Next I slip the paper clip back in one side and wrap the kanthal coil. remove the clip and slide the coil into position. It shouldn't be so tight that you can't move it around into position.

Now I forget who came up with the idea but it was simple genius. Get rid of the bic pen tubes in the wick holes. Cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing and slide them on each side of the wick where they will reside to prevent shorting with the atty body. Your wick needs to be big enough so that when you shrink the tubing it is a snug fit in the atty body. To further prevent leakage I don't shrink the last 1/8" on the top.

This is where I tweak the bottom end of the mesh to train it to stay away from the body center post to prevent shorting.

Now insert into body and make sure the heat shrink bell top fits tight to seal from leaks.

This works for me but it may take it an hour or so of usage before things start working well. When the mesh gets some good burnt juice char on it, it will really rock and roll. Make your juice choice a good one and savor the flavor for weeks to come. ......

 

[Stownz]

Piece of cig paper under the coil, like that idea !! at least protects it while moving around the coils and setting up the posts.

Heat shrink tubing sounds great also, but wont that glue in the heat shrink jack up the taste? The stuff I use in the automotive world spits out a bit of goo from each end when you shrink it.

 

[asdaq]

Adhesive lined tubing will do that, but straight PTFE tubing wont, and is as neutral as teflon can be.

 

[rielevilnside]

I am also having some troubles with my wire only firing 1 coil. I am going to try to insulate the wick with the shrink hopefully it doesn't cut off capillary action that feeds my wick juice.

 

[l3oertjie]

I think most problems of short circuiting can be attributed to "mesh edge frailing". It does'nt matter how sharp the blade of scissors you use to cut them, there will always be short (very short!) tips protruding from the edge of the cut. Even though properly oxidised, these tips will remain sharp and it WILL make contact and conduct through the mesh.

I have very little propblems with short cicuiting the way I do it. Almost every wick works first time. This is what I do:

Cut the mesh to size using sharp scissors or a blade. Like this:

Use a thin straight blade and bend approximately 2mm of the mesh over onto itself like this:

Run your nail or anything hard accross the fold to flatten it nicely. Like this:

Use a needle or anything else thin to get started on rolling the mesh. Make sure you roll the mesh so that the fold would be inside the rolls when completed. Like this:

Complete the rolling between your fingers until it's nice and tight. Like this:

Complete by torching, dunking, torching dripping VG on it and re-torch.

Should work just fine.

 

[slopes]

When you've finished the heating cycle for the rolled mesh, melt a small amount of white sugar in a teaspoon and dip the tip of the wick into this. When cooled, it should give a thin, high-temp protective coating between the SS and the Kanthal.

 

[l3oertjie]

When you've finished the heating cycle for the rolled mesh, melt a small amount of white sugar in a teaspoon and dip the tip of the wick into this. When cooled, it should give a thin, high-temp protective coating between the SS and the Kanthal.

That's interesting slopes -gotta try that!

Does it not affect the taste and wicking efficiency? I have actually added sugar to my juice once and it gave it quite an interesting flavour to the vape.

 

[Lazrah]

hmm wouldn't the sugar get really gummy? or would most of that just burn off? melted sugar is some nasty stuff, atleast in my experience.

not doubting just curious, I have my first set of rebuilding stuffs on order from around the world xD . Trying to get as much info as I can before trying it out.

 

[shortyjacobs]

I think most problems of short circuiting can be attributed to "mesh edge frailing". It does'nt matter how sharp the blade of scissors you use to cut them, there will always be short (very short!) tips protruding from the edge of the cut. Even though properly oxidised, these tips will remain sharp and it WILL make contact and conduct through the mesh.

I have very little propblems with short cicuiting the way I do it. Almost every wick works first time. This is what I do:

Cut the mesh to size using sharp scissors or a blade. Like this:
(pic removed)

Use a thin straight blade and bend approximately 2mm of the mesh over onto itself like this:
(pic removed)

Run your nail or anything hard accross the fold to flatten it nicely. Like this:
(pic removed)

Use a needle or anything else thin to get started on rolling the mesh. Make sure you roll the mesh so that the fold would be inside the rolls when completed. Like this:
(pic removed)

Complete the rolling between your fingers until it's nice and tight. Like this:
(pic removed)

Complete by torching, dunking, torching dripping VG on it and re-torch.

Should work just fine.

Awesome l3oertjie!!

I think this was what perlionsmitnick was describing a few posts above yours, but without the pictures I couldn't quite understand what he was getting at. This makes a lot of sense!

 

[slimest]

I bend the outer edge of the mesh the same way as l3oertjie does. Then coil the wick. Oxidize ready wick 1-2 times, no more, using my e-liquid, not water. After oxidizing I moisten wick with the same usual e-liquid and only after that coil the heater to lubricated mesh tube. A needle inside the wick required to avoid deforms. E-liquid works as a lubricant and does not allow oxidized surface to crack and fall to pieces. Works for me...