Just found it again. Here ya go.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-your-mesh-style-atomizer-without-wires.html
Fool-proof Genesis Technique. Before you sell your Genesis style RBA, read this.
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Just found it again. Here ya go.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-your-mesh-style-atomizer-without-wires.html
I'd assume the wick would get warm thus warming the juice a bit but nothing extreme. Take a look in that thread I posted above. Some interesting stuff in there.
try putting two small waschers under the top pos screw they reach closer to the coil . and top wire between them.this way you domt have to bend your coil...wick towards the positive posts .or another way to try wrap the pos lead under pos top screw and double back and wrap around toward coil and clip off with nail clipper.
Gonna be trying out this method. My previous builds on a genny were very very harsh and metallic. I am assuming that was the result of coil expansion and hot spots.
I just recently got some xs-18 silica sleeving. I used a small piece to cover my wick where the coil wraps around. It was a bit of a pain to keep it from unraveling, but once wrapped no hotspots at all. I only flamed my 500 mesh once and was worried that there would be a metal taste or even taste the silica (reason I switched to mesh) but only got a clean flavor and great vapor. It was so much easier to set up that I took apart my other aga t2 with ss rope wick( working great with mesh sleeve) to put the xs-18 on it. Again easiest setup, and no hotspots. Ordered some ekowool sleeving to see if that gives as good a flavor.
I tried setting mine up this way... No luck. I'm getting a short where the wick goes to the tank.
Shouldn't that be insulated if it's causing a short?? The only time I could get it to work was with a teeny tiny wick. Which did squat good for wicking juice.
This is getting frustrating.
Shouldn't that be insulated if it's causing a short?? The only time I could get it to work was with a teeny tiny wick. Which did squat good for wicking juice.
This is getting frustrating.
If you're shorting at the base, you're either touching the bottom with the wick or you didn't oxidize the mesh enough. I'm using a mini DID clone, all stainless, with 10 wraps of 28g on a 400 mesh, and it wicks great and I have no problems what so ever, you don't need an insulator on the wick hole if the wick is oxidized correctly.
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Holy crap 10 wraps !! What's the resistance value for that coil?
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~2 ohms iirc ..... sounds right for the size wicks those use?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Proper oxidation takes some time but if done right, it's once & done. I'm using the same coil/wick for a while, and on my setup, having to remove the + lead from the post to fill the tank without leaking, I still have no hot spot or shorting problems.
Roll the wick so there's almost no hole in the center.
Use a torch, make sure you heat the wick till it glows red, at least three times, then coat it with VG and burn it a couple more times.
After you wrap the coil n the wick, re-torch the combined setup (be careful not to melt the coil) again till it glows.
Roll the wick so there's almost no hole in the center.
Use a torch, make sure you heat the wick till it glows red, at least three times, then coat it with VG and burn it a couple more times.
After you wrap the coil n the wick, re-torch the combined setup (be careful not to melt the coil) again till it glows.
This is good advice, some genny style devices are just a pain no matter how well you try to oxidize it just doesn't work, a booklet of papers is a couple of dollars and can easily last you a year on stubborn attys like the AGA.
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