Fool-proof Genesis Technique. Before you sell your Genesis style RBA, read this.
- Thread starter hubblecraft83
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I to was having wicking problem till I removed my filler plug(piece of toothpick) WOW that was it, thanks much.
my dud wicks like mad with the filler screw out and a super tight 400mesh wick. Problem I'm having is hotspots/shorts. I used 6 wraps of 36awg nichrome and it only read 1.5ohms so I'm assuming a short somewhere. I thought maybe it was the wire being 36awg but apparently I'm a tard when it comes to resistance wire.
Will have to try this out when I get some mesh. I've got a Chid with clear tank that I got in a Co-Op recently. Came with a wick and 1.6ohm coil already wrapped. Checked for for shorts and filled up.
Tastes AWFUL! I know its not the juice because I used the same stuff in another genesis mod last night at a locally VAPE meet. What's weird is it tasted the same as my modded vivi tank I had previously. Just had a thought........ don't know what wire came with mine. Nichrome or kanthal.......
(MY NAME IS BILL Z AND I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE)
Tastes AWFUL! I know its not the juice because I used the same stuff in another genesis mod last night at a locally VAPE meet. What's weird is it tasted the same as my modded vivi tank I had previously. Just had a thought........ don't know what wire came with mine. Nichrome or kanthal.......
(MY NAME IS BILL Z AND I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE)
I wish I'd come across this earlier. I sold my AGA a week or so ago for a ton a NR and kanthal wire :/
My main problem was wick density and wicking - it couldn't feed as fast as i wanted to vape
Saved for if i ever decide to come back to Genesis style - I went for drip RBAs instead
Thanks for the hard work!
My main problem was wick density and wicking - it couldn't feed as fast as i wanted to vape
Saved for if i ever decide to come back to Genesis style - I went for drip RBAs instead
Thanks for the hard work!
Place holding a great to the point tutorial.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Wire won't make a difference in taste as long as the oils were burned off. Kanthal A1 seems favored over 80/20 nichrome because it's a bit tougher at the same resistance levels, so easier to work with and less likely to burn through. That said, I use 80/20 nichrome without issue.
If you're getting kind of a dull metallic taste, new SS wicks take 1ml or so of vaping before that goes away, in my experience. If you're getting a burnt, oily taste the coil may not have been torched prior. Dry burning might get rid of it, or you can just hit the wick with a lighter (be careful, I've had no problems with this in my DUDs, but YMMV) let it burn like a torch for a bit, then blow it out.
Last edited:
This thread helped me so much, thanks Hubble and those who helped.
I have my genesis rocking but filling it is a pita, any tips? It's a DUD, and every time I fill it the juice comes bubbling up the wick hole. It makes me think its full but then when I take it apart it only has a ml or so in it. Should I take the negative screw out or something?
-Sam
I have my genesis rocking but filling it is a pita, any tips? It's a DUD, and every time I fill it the juice comes bubbling up the wick hole. It makes me think its full but then when I take it apart it only has a ml or so in it. Should I take the negative screw out or something?
-Sam
I solved my issue by removing the negative screw when filling, however I must add... I really wish I didn't have to do that 
ce la vi, it's better than carto tanks.
ce la vi, it's better than carto tanks.
Oh my gosh. I've been rolling wicks with a hole in the centre, experimenting with varying the hole size and everything else. I even drilled out my wick hole for this reason (since more material = more wicking), but had never tried a solid wick, before.
All I can say is *thank you*.
To those who think this isn't worth the time - I'm going to california for a week, my flight leaves in less than three hours and I'm an hour away from the airport. It was so quick and easy that I now have time to write this review on the methodology.
TOTALLY worth it.
All I can say is *thank you*.
To those who think this isn't worth the time - I'm going to california for a week, my flight leaves in less than three hours and I'm an hour away from the airport. It was so quick and easy that I now have time to write this review on the methodology.
TOTALLY worth it.
Any advice on why my coil keeps popping on my DID? I've tried 5 wicks already and they are all doing the same thing. Using 400 mesh with 32 gauge kanthal. I've also tried 34 gauge kanthal. They heat up right at the top between the positive post and the wick and then "POP". I've tried lightly oxidized and heavily and same result. I know it's a short and I'm doing something wrong I just can't pinpoint it. Any help is appreciated. TY.
When using any "lightly oxidized" SS mesh wick it's very important that it not touch the bottom of the tank (since that represents negative), and that it's not "choked" in the wick hole, which is also negative. The mesh is still conductive over most of its length -- the coil basically oxidizes itself to the mesh. My success level went way up when I drilled out my wick hole to a larger (1/8") size, because the wick isn't constantly shorting against the hole walls. It still lightly touches, but it works.
34 gauge Kanthal is really difficult to work with. It's simply too thin, unless you have a mod that does sub-3V settings. Use the 32. It won't pop as easily. If you have a VV/VW device, use the lowest possible setting to start out. *Pulse* the coil -- don't hold the button down. Pulse, look for hotspots, poke and prod at the coil with a pin or similar.
If you remove the wick, you'll see that the coil is fine -- it'll pulse evenly, just like it should. As Zen says, every coil is a good coil, although it does have to contact the wick evenly.
Pulse and prod. You'll get it after a while. When they start to light evenly, keep pulsing, moving any dark coils around on the wick. When they all glow evenly, raise the voltage a bit and keep pulsing. Get to a decent voltage (~3.8-4V) with it glowing evenly and you're set.
Thank you Staircase. I did find out that you and Zen are both correct. The coils all worked fine without the wick. Glow nice and even. I used the drill bit method to get a nice even coil. Built it on the DID. Then rolled the wick and got it just snug in there. That's the trick. Like you said, it has to make even contact.
Been vaping on it on and off for the last few hours. Pretty good vapor and flavor however I did pop the cap off to look at the wick and noticed the top of of the coil has a hotspot. I can't play with it anymore today. I'm all DID'ed out. At least I got it working for a little while. Thank you for the tips. Every little bit of knowledge helps with these darn things.
Good, you're well on your way. It's a learning curve that's pretty steep, but once you get going you'll be able to get a setup working in short order. I still struggle too, though -- sometimes things just don't want to work. Start low power and work up. There also seems to be a certain "break in" time where raising the power too much causes issues. Vape for a while at a lower voltage while the wick and coil break in and it'll go easier. Raising the voltage too soon is a recipe for frustration.
Glad I could help a bit.
Glad I could help a bit.
Has anyone heard the latest technique? It seems the guy who invented or sells the Golden Greek or something came up with an entirely new way to set these RBAs up. He creates the wick so if fits nice and tight in the rba hole. Then takes NR wire and makes a few wraps at the top of the wick and goes straight to the positive post of the rba. Apparently this makes the entire wick the coil as well. There's a few videos out there. Do a search on genesis and NR wire and you can probably find it. I don't have any NR wire or I would have already tried it but it seems to work.
- Status
Similar threads
