GG China Clone Fire Button gets Really HOT!
- Thread starter GFred611
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- myvaporstore
- Status
Check the resistance of carto,atty,etc. might have a short.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like you're pulling more amps than the spring can handle. Are you running a low ohm coil?
If it's the spring that is heating it means that the button isn't making contact with the body and all the electricity is passing through the spring which has resistance since it is steel which has a low resistance. This is the first time I've heard of this happen since I do repairs and upgrades to mechanical mods. It's either replace the spring or try to strip the chrome plating on the button or add an electrically conductive grease.
The same thing happens to me sometimes. I cleaned all the contacts (fire button, 510 connection, positive battery connection) and it only gets slightly warm now. I also sanded the chrome plating down to the brass. Now the only time it gets hot is when I'm dry firing to adjust coils.
I have the EXACT same problem. I have a DID Clone on it and that fire button gets HOT!! I actually have to take my finger off it gets so hot. Here's what I've noticed though. I had a 28 gauge 7/8 coil with a 400 mesh wick running at about 2.2 ohms. The China GG worked fine. No hot button at all. Then I rebuilt it with a 30 gauge 4/5 coil with the same 400 mesh at about 1.2 ohms and that's when it started.
I'm no expert but I'm thinking the resistance has something to do with it. I wonder if I rebuilt it using the 28 gauge at the same resistance, 1.2 ohms, as the 30 gauge. Would it still heat up? Is it the difference in the gauge of the wire or the actual resistance? Hmmm
EDIT: Also, the wicking is fine. The juice is saturating the wick well and there are no hotspots so neither one of those are the cause.
I'm no expert but I'm thinking the resistance has something to do with it. I wonder if I rebuilt it using the 28 gauge at the same resistance, 1.2 ohms, as the 30 gauge. Would it still heat up? Is it the difference in the gauge of the wire or the actual resistance? Hmmm
EDIT: Also, the wicking is fine. The juice is saturating the wick well and there are no hotspots so neither one of those are the cause.
I have the EXACT same problem. I have a DID Clone on it and that fire button gets HOT!! I actually have to take my finger off it gets so hot. Here's what I've noticed though. I had a 28 gauge 7/8 coil with a 400 mesh wick running at about 2.2 ohms. The China GG worked fine. No hot button at all. Then I rebuilt it with a 30 gauge 4/5 coil with the same 400 mesh at about 1.2 ohms and that's when it started.
I'm no expert but I'm thinking the resistance has something to do with it. I wonder if I rebuilt it using the 28 gauge at the same resistance, 1.2 ohms, as the 30 gauge. Would it still heat up? Is it the difference in the gauge of the wire or the actual resistance? Hmmm
EDIT: Also, the wicking is fine. The juice is saturating the wick well and there are no hotspots so neither one of those are the cause.
Same problem with the 28 gauge at the same resistance. I'm stumped.
Don't be stumped, your pulling too much current, gauge has diddly to do with it, it's the resistance.
So the resistance is too low? I thought that was the whole point of having a mechanical mod? So we can run these gennys at really low ohms? No?
Not questioning your advice...just asking.
There is an underlying problem with the switch. You shouldn't be having this problem even at much lower resistance than you are running. I have no problems below 1ohm on mine. I would try to disassemble, clean, and probably sand the inside bore if the switch housing...or look for a replacement switch.
Last edited:
I kinda thought that. These things should be able to run sub-ohm RBAs no problem. I'll give the sanding a shot. Thanks.
Sanded contacts and center post. Fire button works "instantly" now. Seems to have alleviated the hot button issue. Not really sure though. I can't keep it held down long enough to tell. 2 - 3 seconds and the coil is red hot. I have to re-coil it and check again.
Last edited:
Sorry for the confusion.
Yes you are right wrt the device should be able to handle it. My comment was wrt using different gauge wire at the same resistance. Resistance is resistance. The Adam has the same problem with their switches and not just when using RBAs, Hope this helps and clarifies my comment
I have the gg clone, after using for abt three weeks, i have found out the problem is with the button, my friends gg clone which is a brand new one, i compared it with the one i am using, its seems that my switch gets hot and not firing properly to produce vapor. any way to fix the button issue?
Take it apart and LIGHTLY sand the center post and the part that screws off the button on the inside that makes contact with the center post with a very fine grit sandpaper. Fixed my hot button issue and made the button fire a lot better. More "sensitive" if you will.
copy that, will try it out. Btw i use a wet tissue to clean the button contact inside the tube, its firing better now!
Just tried this. Seems to do the trick.I can use my gg without burning my finger off. Thanks guys.
Glad it worked for you.
Gotta give credit to Rader2146 though. He's the one who enlightened me with that little trick.
- Status
Similar threads
