GG China Clone Fire Button gets Really HOT!
- Thread starter GFred611
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Well im using the same KTS or china GG you could check out my avatar..firing button does get hot due to several reasons..if your not going to mod your mech than just purchase NOALAX..follow this link for find outmore http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/69065-noalax-must.html ...and if you wanna try to increase the firing power slightly..sand down the chrome plated parts to reveals the brass finish of them firing pin..especially for the fire trigger button and the Inner top head connector..just me 2 cents..hope this helps Happy 
This was really useful, but it was only a temporary solution for me =[ after I sanded it down it fire 3-5 seconds fine for a couple rounds then about 5 hits later the problem returned. It's so painful, the button gets scalding hot and I have a couple burnt finger tips already. I'm going to look for dielectric grease, will this fix the problem?
I dont think it will, as I am also having gthe same problems and ive sanded and noalox'd my switch a few times with no luck.
Do you guys know what else I could fix then? The clone is not of use as of right now =[ I am also super confused about Noalox vs. Dielectric Grease. Some people say Noalox conducts better some say Dialectric Grease works better.
Well not to say that it will completely get rid of the heat sensation..i have another mod running with out NOALAX and its also running fine..but just be sure that its able to work with the right materials..if im not mistaken NOALAX works best with aluminium and not SS or im i dead wrong completely =P
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anyone running with these in their mech mods?
http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/171-2-cents-for-safety-mod-fuse/1217-2-cents-for-safety-mod-fuse.html
Currently running on the local china fuse in my mods..any chance that this could be the reason that my mods are not heating up? i personally feel like they help me to protect my batteries..And 2 of them shorted out few weeks ago..its a 1 time only use only..but i felt like it helps slightly some what with the heating issue it think..correct me if im worng guys =)
http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/171-2-cents-for-safety-mod-fuse/1217-2-cents-for-safety-mod-fuse.html
Currently running on the local china fuse in my mods..any chance that this could be the reason that my mods are not heating up? i personally feel like they help me to protect my batteries..And 2 of them shorted out few weeks ago..its a 1 time only use only..but i felt like it helps slightly some what with the heating issue it think..correct me if im worng guys =)
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This is what I use.
http://www.myvaporstore.com/ShortStop_by_Holocron_Labs_p/ss-hl.htm
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http://www.myvaporstore.com/ShortStop_by_Holocron_Labs_p/ss-hl.htm
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Hey Fullknight..thanks for the awesome heads up..puts the regular 2 cents fuse to shame..hehehehe got mine for less than $1..but did consider the reusable one's like the one you just showed..but i will be getting the Kick by evolveThe Kick – Instructions « Evolv
Your welcome.Hey Fullknight..thanks for the awesome heads up..puts the regular 2 cents fuse to shame..hehehehe got mine for less than $1..but did consider the reusable one's like the one you just showed..but i will be getting the Kick by evolveThe Kick Instructions « Evolv
I use the Holocron in 2 of my mech mods,but I use a kick in the other 2.
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Nice mate
Yes I really like the Kick. I use an 18500 in my CCST and Natural and it runs really smooth. The Kick isn't PWM and it is real smooth,battery lasts all day. I alternate between 2 or more mods at a time though.
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Sweet~~
i shall plan to make urgent orders then..did you mean 1 battery pack per mod or 2 batteries per mod
I use an 18500mah EH flattop +Kick in my Natural it is shorter. In the CCST I can use flattop or button top 18500mah. + Kick.
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I have never had the hot button on any of mine. I always check carto,atomizer resistance before I use anything. Only 1 battery per mod at a time.
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The thing is I build sub 1 ohm coils on other mechanical mods -SmokTech Natural -SmokTech Bolt and my roommate has the GGTS and none of these have problems with low resistance coils. Sure the battery gets warm "overtime" and the atomizer heats up but never have the button BURN (damage to my skin) burn in a matter of 5 seconds.
I suggest everyone who has the GG Clone or KTS x6 considering sanding down the posts and button contact point. After if it still problematic try some Noalox or Dielectric grease. I am playing with those right now and the button hasn't spiked yet, but it is very scary using the mod.
I also notice that the springs that come in contact with the negative of the battery is very very close to touching. If this touches and there is a short could it lead to the button heating up? Can anyone enlighten me
I suggest everyone who has the GG Clone or KTS x6 considering sanding down the posts and button contact point. After if it still problematic try some Noalox or Dielectric grease. I am playing with those right now and the button hasn't spiked yet, but it is very scary using the mod.
I also notice that the springs that come in contact with the negative of the battery is very very close to touching. If this touches and there is a short could it lead to the button heating up? Can anyone enlighten me
you're probably on to something here..i did noticed that the standard springs build into the bottom section is rather soft..well not that soft..will still sag after you tighten the battery housing all together. But didnt sag all the way hitting the post on mine..but ill check again..but really mate..im running coils higher it does heat up slightly but not right now..Am still awaiting for some brass fixtures to arrive for the KTS..hoping that it will help with the firing and heating issue. i will post that later once ive received me package
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If you can't get a mod to fire correctly without it, the only thing that NoAlOx is going to give you is a greasy mess. It does NOT increase conductivity.
Dielectric grease is an insulator, and probably the last thing that you want on your contacts.
Dielectric grease is an insulator, and probably the last thing that you want on your contacts.
My idea is right now the spring is sagging down so I'm going to forcefully separate the springs more and also not screw it so tight. What do you guys think?
I dont think that would solve the problem either mate..hence why it is im awaiting for the arrival of my brass coils..once i've gotten it on my mod ill try and see if the heating issue comes up again..cause..right now..no issues..but again..the electric current still does flow throught the mod it self right..could be our hands which is causing the damn issue
..but jokes aside..i am still trying to resolve the issue as well..but currently would prefer in not getting my hands and mod dirty even ever i need to our them while im on the go..- Status
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