GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread

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gekka

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But as we speak long time ago a 17mm Esterigon can ;)
Or something completely crazy!
lol.gif

Sorry Imeo, can't resist!
 

imeothanasis

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I would like a Tilemahos with a more stable connection so I can use it with TC (and I'm talking about the regular version, I haven't even tried the springomizer yet).
No matter how much I've cleaned it and tightened up the bottom, I still get a fluctuating resistance. I'm forced to use cheap chinese tanks, which I don't like because they are stable down to 0.01Ω and can be used with TC.

Did you check my video about Tilemahos stability Seek?
I think that you use mods with AD pin, something not really good for temp control. Tilemahos has an AD pin too, so 2 AD pins cant give you a stable measurement. But because AD of Tilemahos doesnt use spring, it can be totally stable on mods without AD pin.

And the option for Tilemahos with steady pin still exists. I suppose that China atomizers dont have an AD pin, thats why they work :)
 

notarobot

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I would like a Tilemahos with a more stable connection so I can use it with TC (and I'm talking about the regular version, I haven't even tried the springomizer yet).
No matter how much I've cleaned it and tightened up the bottom, I still get a fluctuating resistance. I'm forced to use cheap chinese tanks, which I don't like because they are stable down to 0.01Ω and can be used with TC.

I'm using my Tiles with TC and I solved the fluctuating resistance issue by doing the following:
- make sure the center post extension is tight (bottom of housing)
- replace the o-ring on the center post extension by a (thinner) 5x1.5 ring
- screw the center post (plus pin) tight

By using a thinner o-ring, the housing will go deeper into the base and the center post will stick out a little more. With this setup I'm getting a stable connection. Give it a try!
 

imeothanasis

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great notarobot. Yes, if the AD pin of Tilemahos is screwed totally then it acts like a solid pin.

The conclusion of your post is that the connection on the mods is not good. They require from atomizers to carry a longer center pin, because more pressure is required. But the right pressure has to be given from the mod and not from atomizer if we want to talk about a good construction. Its more than obvious that its not a fault of Tilemahos but a fault of the mods. Thats why Tilemahos work flawless on Proteus without any adjustment. Spring on Proteus is too strong and bended too, exactly the same as on esterigon, so it makes excellent conduct.

Try to use Tilemahos on a mod with very strong spring on its center post or on a mod with NO AD pin. Then you will understand if your mod is made the right way.

I have said a lot of times that springs are not good for electrical connections. It seems that some modders have understand this and they have improved their constructions. But most of them still use springs to make contact with the battery and soft springs for center posts
 
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nester

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I am not saying this often, but tilemahos v2+ is brillant !! Outstanding job Imeo! I Used alot of high end stuff but this is far ahead of everything. It reminds Me the days i was using oddyseus, but without all this mess with ress and noress wires, cotton instead of silica, 3mm diameter coil with simple kanthal, without tc.. After 6 years of vaping i can finally say ive found holy grail ;) and Its not a hurry oh ah first day impressions, im using it over a month now :)

Ps. Just stack up resellers with ss tanks, because Its a must for this beauty, and old school monolit chimneys!

Ps2. Im starting to selling all my other stuff and buying more tilemahoses lol :))


Happy new year to all of you guys !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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soulseek

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I'm no novice user and when I say that Tilemahos doesn't work well TC then I can't accept any more excuses. Yes my DNA200 has an adjustable 510 but the spring is very stiff. The mod is not the problem. I've tightened the AD of Tilemahos as much as possible. It should act as a solid 510 connection and should work flawlessly just like all of my chinese tanks with a solid 510. The rest is simply excuses in my opinion.
Most mods come with adjustable 510 nowadays. Can we just have a Tilemahos without adjustable pin? It will make it simpler and shorter.
 
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imeothanasis

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I dont see any excuses Seek. In fact, I made a video about this issue, just to avoid excuses. Did you check the video? You didnt answer this question yet.

Also, I am not a magician when I said that your mod has an AD pin. I knew it because of the bad connection. Ok, maybe you didnt read well my post, so I am posting again what exactly is happening:

Your mod needs an atomizer with a pin that sticks out a lot of the 510 threads to have a good connection. And thats because of the short AD pin that your mod has. Thats why your China atomizers work. Because their pin sticks out more than Tilemahos's AD pin in solid state and they reach the short AD of your mod OR because they press more the AD pin of your mod and finally your mod makes the connection.

We cant make another style of Tilemahos just because the modder of your mod made something that doesnt work. Better ask your modder to make a serious AD pin than asking me to do that.

ps...... By the way, even if your mod is not made the right way, GG still has the solution for situations like this and we can solve problems that occur from other modders. We have the solid pin for Tilemahos that can be bought from my sellers.
 

soulseek

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I dont see any excuses Seek. In fact, I made a video about this issue, just to avoid excuses. Did you check the video? You didnt answer this question yet.

Also, I am not a magician when I said that your mod has an AD pin. I knew it because of the bad connection. Ok, maybe you didnt read well my post, so I am posting again what exactly is happening:

Your mod needs an atomizer with a pin that sticks out a lot of the 510 threads to have a good connection. And thats because of the short AD pin of your mod. Thats why your China atomizers work. Because their pin sticks out more than Tilemahos's AD pin in solid state and they reach the short AD of your mod OR they press more the AD pin of your mod and finally your mod makes the connection.

We cant make another style of Tilemahos just because the modder of your mod made something that doesnt work. Better ask your modder to make a serious AD pin than asking me to do that.

ps...... By the way, even if your mod is not made the right way, GG still has the solution for situations like this and we can solve problems that occur from other modders. We have the solid pin for Tilemahos that can be bought from my sellers.

Yes I've seen the video. My mod doesn't have a bad connection. In fact, even if it did as you will see in the photo below, Tilemahos has a much longer 510 connection than the other tank, yet it's still the one which has a fluctuating resistance. The one on the left is steady down to 0.001Ω even with a shorter 510.

I wasn't aware that there was a solid pin for Tilemahos v2. I assume it's this one? If this will work I'll buy it when it's back in stock. Hope it works.

IMG_0380.jpg
 
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imeothanasis

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Tilemahos's pin is not in solid position Seek. You have unscrewed as I see it. Ok, before buy a solid pin, I will give you a trick for Tilemahos because its a versatile atomizer as you know.

Keep Tilemahos pin in solid state.
Change the o-ring of the center post extension with a thinner one. That way the center pin of Tilemahos will stick out of 510 threads more, even if its in solid state. Then try it again with your mod.

ps...... When you change the o-ring, dont screw very hard as you usually do the rebuildable part of Tilemahos on its base because thinner o-ring will go deep inside the base and you may have a short. OR screw it totally until metals meet each other and then go back half a turn.

ps2...... before you fill your Tilemahos with liquid, make a test to see that I am right: When you change the o-ring and assemble Tilemahos, put it in your mod and check the resistance. You will see that its ok.

ps3........ What my video shows? It shows that eleaf has an AD pin BUT connected with wires inside. The adjustable action of eleaf AD pin is because of silicon inside and not of a spring. That means that the connection is always good because eleaf AD pin is connected with wires BUT it requires pressure too to make a good connection between center post of Tilemahos and eleaf center pin. Thats why eleaf measurements were not good when Tilemahos was not well screwed on it. But on your mod, BIG PRESSURE IS REQUIRED ALWAYS because we need not only a good contact between center post of Tilemahos and center pin of your mod BUT also a good contact of your mod with its springs inside
 

gekka

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I don't have the pin unscrewed. It's just screwed in as much as possible so it makes a solid connection. I'll try with a thinner o ring although I'm not sure I have one right now.
Soulseek, just an idea.
Once I had bad connections and the center pin sticks out as far as your one.
My problem: during assembling I let the center-pin within the base.
Maybe you can try following:
- remove the rebuildable part
- remove the center pin
- screw the center pin on the rebuildable part (but not too tight)
- screw the rebuildable part tight into the base.
In my case the center pin doesn't stick out. So I need a screwdriver to adjust the pin. But make sure the internals of the rebuildable part doesn't rotate, too.
Maybe it helps.
 
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imeothanasis

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Seek, let me explain to you and to all temp control users out there. Temp control requires very good connections. Thats why springomizer works excellent with mechanicals and VV-VW devices but not with temp devices.

To archive a good contact in general, you need steady connections. Steady connections are not suitable with spring loaded pins, or AD pins. BUT:

A good spring loaded application can archive a "good" contact with atomizers with solid center pins OR with China atomizers with solid pins connected with wires inside but still adjustable via STRONG silicone rings. If silicone ring is not strong then the contact will be poor again.

Why do you think that Tilemahos on my video behaves exactly as it has to be? Because even if its AD pin is not in solid state, it makes the right contact with eleaf device. And it makes the right contact because eleaf device doesnt have a spring loaded AD pin. If eleaf device had a spring loaded AD pin, Tilemahos wouldnt work because of eleaf's fault. Eleaf device has a silicone AD pin connected with wires inside. And it still didnt show the right resistance until I totally screwed Tilemahos on this device and eleaf's center pin pressed enough for a good contact.

Ok, one more trick for you. Unscrew as much as you can the AD pin of Tilemahos and put it on your mod. I hope that Tilemahos AD pin will be long enough to totally press the spring of the AD pin of your mod. Like this, spring will be eliminated and your connection will be the right one. Please post your results.


ps...... Make sure that all connections on Tilemahos are tight. Positive pin on the center post with pliers, negative pin on the negative base with pliers, center post extension to the center post with pliers, well screwed bolts that keep wire. Just like on my videos
 
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Aal_

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I don't have the pin unscrewed. It's just screwed in as much as possible so it makes a solid connection. I'll try with a thinner o ring although I'm not sure I have one right now.
Seek I can feel your frustration. My tilemahos when fully screwed does not stick this much. I don't know why it's sticking this much in your case. I use tilemahos on istick 60w tc and had no issues. But i didn't check the resistance because you need dna200 for that. Good luck.
 
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