Now that Aal and gekka said that, my Tilemahos doesnt stick at all when rebuildable part is totally screwed on the base. Thats why I told you that your AD pin is unscrewed on the photo. Can you please dissasemble your Tilemahos and check if something is wrong inside it?
GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread
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Seek, please do as we suggest and if you dont find a solution to your issue I would like you to do me one small favor if its not trouble. Can you make a very small video while you screw Tilemahos on your mod and let me see the display? If its trouble then no problem
Also, is the surface of the AD pin of Tilemahos in good condition? Any black marks on it? Also, can you please clean it with mesh in case of machining faults?
Also, is the surface of the AD pin of Tilemahos in good condition? Any black marks on it? Also, can you please clean it with mesh in case of machining faults?
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Ok so something very strange is happening. The resistance changes depending on the position of the juice control. If I have the mouthpiece screwed all the way down so that juice control is closed the resistance is 0.29Ω. As soon as I start unscrewing the mouthpiece and the juice control opens, the resistance jumps to 0.35Ω. Any ideas?
Besides this problem the resistance is a bit more stable now. I've tried to unscrew the AD a bit and seems to help. However, I don't consider this a permanent solution. I think I need a solid centre pin to solve this once and for all. I'm going to try this tomorrow with my brothers Tilemahos v1, which has the solid SS pin.
Besides this problem the resistance is a bit more stable now. I've tried to unscrew the AD a bit and seems to help. However, I don't consider this a permanent solution. I think I need a solid centre pin to solve this once and for all. I'm going to try this tomorrow with my brothers Tilemahos v1, which has the solid SS pin.
If the internal is not secured fully tightly, any movement would make the resistance change. This is what I think, not sure.
Thats impossible 67. If 2 threads touch each other, the difference in resistance will be big and not that small that Seek mention
I'm happy to report that I've found the problem and its solution. Now I can happily buy and test the springomizer.
So what was the problem? The rebuildable not being screwed on 100% on the base. I had been screwing everything so tightly but apparently the rebuildable needed a bit more with pliers. I realised this when I was closing the liquid control completely and the resistance was jumping by 0.03Ω; it might not seem much but with a base resistance of 0.15 or 0.25 it's very significant. As soon as I unscrewed the close juice control by 1 turn the resistance jumped. So I took pliers and screwed it on as much as possible, the 510 pin sticking quite a bit out, even though it's tight and everything works reliably.
Why does this happen on Tilemahos and not all my other atomisers? The o-ring between rebuildable part and the base acting a bit like a spring unless fully screwed. Maybe there is a better solution for future Tilemahos versions.
So what was the problem? The rebuildable not being screwed on 100% on the base. I had been screwing everything so tightly but apparently the rebuildable needed a bit more with pliers. I realised this when I was closing the liquid control completely and the resistance was jumping by 0.03Ω; it might not seem much but with a base resistance of 0.15 or 0.25 it's very significant. As soon as I unscrewed the close juice control by 1 turn the resistance jumped. So I took pliers and screwed it on as much as possible, the 510 pin sticking quite a bit out, even though it's tight and everything works reliably.
Why does this happen on Tilemahos and not all my other atomisers? The o-ring between rebuildable part and the base acting a bit like a spring unless fully screwed. Maybe there is a better solution for future Tilemahos versions.
Seek, do you remember when I said that trying to vape on 0,05 and 0,1 resistances will bring you problems? Thats what happened to you and to many users out there.
Anyway, o-ring acts like a spring but for better conductivity. I mean that o-ring pushes hard the rebuildable part and makes threads between rebuildable part and base be very tight. The conductivity of a style like this is better than a cap screwed on a tube for example.
Rebuildable part is screwed on the base with 5,5 big threads (15x1). They are too many threads for the current. Its like a cap on a tube with 5,5 big threads. But most of caps on mods dont have so many threads but they still work.
I dont know why you had problems when other users dont have them or how your problem is solved but if its solved then I am really happy
Anyway, o-ring acts like a spring but for better conductivity. I mean that o-ring pushes hard the rebuildable part and makes threads between rebuildable part and base be very tight. The conductivity of a style like this is better than a cap screwed on a tube for example.
Rebuildable part is screwed on the base with 5,5 big threads (15x1). They are too many threads for the current. Its like a cap on a tube with 5,5 big threads. But most of caps on mods dont have so many threads but they still work.
I dont know why you had problems when other users dont have them or how your problem is solved but if its solved then I am really happy
I'm vaping using 24awg Titanium. The single coil on my Tilemahos is about 0.27Ω I can't do much about it. Besides if I want to use springomizer and TC with Titanium I can't use thinner wire because I don't think I will be able to make the springs.
The O-ring of the cap of v1 and v2, is the same? . O-ring the center post pin V1 and center post extension V2 , is the same?
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I do not know why I was thinking in the Penelopes, breminator posted the correct answer...
http://ggwiki.mengambrea.org/O-Rings#Tilemahos
Internal Diameter (mm) x Cross Section (mm)
v1: 9 x 3
v2: 10 x 3
v2 Plus: 10 x 3
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OK, many thanks, are different. I have another question, on the link puts the housin carries an o-ring 14 x 1, I think it is a error, not?, tilemahos v2 does not ring in the housing
Yes,
In short:
Tilemahos v1 comes with: 2 - 14 x 1 o-rings, one on the base and other on the rebuildable part.
Tilemahos v2 comes with: 1 - 14 x 1 o-ring on base.
Tilemahos v2 plus comes without o-rings at base nor rebuildable part.
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Originally the Tilemahos v1 comes with two optional o-rings:
One on the base and other one on the rebuildable part, as you can see on the below picture.
The o-ring on the rebuildable part was meant to prevent it to unscrew while adjusting the juice flow, it was removed on the later versions (v2 & v2 Plus): if the rebuildable part is tightened enough, it won't unscrew when adjusting the juice flow.
Some users had problem to fully screw the rebuildable part in the base with the o-ring installed, sometimes that caused that the center pin did not protruding long enough from the 510 connector and also an unstable negative connection.
The o-ring on base is to prevent leaks mainly when using the stainless steel tank and to prevent it from easily unscrew. It came by default with the Tilemahos v2.
When using the plexiglass tank (clear tank), that o-ring at base is not needed: as the Tilemahos v2 Plus comes by default with a clear tank, it doesn't come with that o-ring, although, if you buy later a stainless steel tank, you will receive also the mentioned o-ring with it, in case you detect any leakage.
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I have been struggling on how to prevent this that happens on all my Tilemahos v2:
I have experimented with different "techniques" of wick placement, but at the end, sooner or later, when I remove the drip tip I find that puddle of liquid.
I notice when the puddle of liquid is there by the sound produced while vaping, like a muted sound (not the clean crackling sound).
I was thinking that maybe making bigger the diameter of the hole on the mouthpiece neck could solve that, it will allow the liquid to flow down back to the wick zone.
I have experimented with different "techniques" of wick placement, but at the end, sooner or later, when I remove the drip tip I find that puddle of liquid.
I notice when the puddle of liquid is there by the sound produced while vaping, like a muted sound (not the clean crackling sound).
I was thinking that maybe making bigger the diameter of the hole on the mouthpiece neck could solve that, it will allow the liquid to flow down back to the wick zone.
As long as you have no issues while vaping, ignore it.
It's normal.
If its to much, change your wick or take a look at your drip tip. May be it's causing this.
It's normal.
If its to much, change your wick or take a look at your drip tip. May be it's causing this.
its because mouthpiece needs a little bigger internal cone Ariel. But Tilemahos is very short to allow me to make a deeper cone.
Hi all,
I need a little help.
Today I've received from esmokeguru (thanx) the stainless steel tank for my (second) Tilemahos V2 plus (FC edition).
I've found an o-ring in the package and I suppose that I have to place it on the base.
Initially i've mounted the SS tank without the o-ring, because with the clear tank I never had any leaking without it, but with the SS tank I've found some drops leak.
Is it normal?
Have I to use the o-ring with the SS tank?
Thx in advance
I need a little help.
Today I've received from esmokeguru (thanx) the stainless steel tank for my (second
) Tilemahos V2 plus (FC edition).I've found an o-ring in the package and I suppose that I have to place it on the base.
Initially i've mounted the SS tank without the o-ring, because with the clear tank I never had any leaking without it, but with the SS tank I've found some drops leak.
Is it normal?
Have I to use the o-ring with the SS tank?
Thx in advance
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